fqp25
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Everything posted by fqp25
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Most easiest way to suspect a cracked heat exchanger: Feel all around the housing of the furnace,(when the burner has been on for a couple of minutes) if there is a spot that is too hot to touch, most likely there's a problem. As for HVAC techs thinking there GOD; I have a couple in my family, who evolved from plumbers. There is nothing better than being in one of their houses, and complain that it's kind of chilly.
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About 5 years ago, a city inspector told me that a mop or service sink with a 3 inch drain could be reduced to fit a 2 inch P-Trap.
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Hey Kurt, Do you know if that's required in Lake County? I have a cousin building a house in the Gurnee area and I'll probably check the rough for him; when it's ready. Would appreciate a Heads-UP...If it's not too much to ask...
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This municipality goes by their amended version of the IRC, and under their code for electric WH they refer to the NFPA70 (2005 NEC). I guess I got a little confused with the Vol-Amp, but either way I noted that this is not a correct installation. (I am sure 4 out of 5 dentist agree...) Kurt, have you ever seen a switch for a dishwasher in the city? I use to work construction up there, and there were a few Polish and Ukrainian electricians who installed switches for the dishwasher; like right by the switch for the disposer. We always said it must be a European thing.
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Inspected a electric water heater today with no service disconnect in sight of appliance. This seemed kind of odd; checked the installation manual, and it had no mention of a service disconnect. What I did find in the NEC (422.31) was an appliance not rated over 300V or 1/8 hp, the current overload device can serve as a disconnect. Does anybody know any better? I have always seen a service disconnect right by the appliance.
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In my opinion: If any of the exposed finished plumbing moves at all, indicates lack of proper strapping/fastening. It seems like 3 out of 5 times the shower arm will move in and out of the wall. (even on new construction)
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Does anyone know if there is an actual designation for zoning humid areas in the U.S.? (Like they do for temp climate zones) Would anyone say: "Any area within the US would call for sealed crawlspaces due to seasonal humidity." Here in central Illinois, I'm still seeing new developments going up where they are still venting new crawlspaces. (If they don't just throw a house on a slab)
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Here is an overview of some standards of the American with Disabilities Act. http://www.reedfirstsource.com/images/n ... _paper.pdf
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I once lived in a 2-Flat in Chicago. The landlord didn't care what anybody did there as long as he got the rent. When I moved in I wanted to install a 220V stack Washer & Dryer. I piped in new conduit and pulled wires, but when I went to wire it up I noticed that I had only 1 leg coming in from the meter, and both sides of the panel were energized from that leg. Somebody had jumped two breakers similar to the photo. The other service leg was going to the panel which served the upstairs unit, and was wired in the same fashion. By the way the electric was in their name.
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Well what's the verdict here? Is it a trick question and Joe is holding out on us with some obscurer answer? Is there a little tid-bit of information hidden away in the NEC someplace? The suspense is killing me!!
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Well, here we go again the Miami Dolphins have to once again defend their undefeated record against a Super Bowl Bound Chicago team. At least it's not on Monday night. (Like it matters anymore, I think the Bears broke the Monday Night Curse.) The Colts(7-0) are playing The Pats(6-1). I think after tonight there will only be one team which will reach 8-0.
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I don't know in bathrooms for certain, but in damp and wet areas, cabinets and panels should be of the weatherproof variety; so that moisture and water can't enter and accumulate.
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That is pretty cool!!! I saw another clip of a gas water heater. This one was on the Discovery or The Learning Channel(Or something like that). They had a mock-up 3 story building and the heater went through all 3 floors. That's some powerful stuff.
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No, I wouldn't do that to anybody. The whole thing looked weak to me in the first place. I just wanted to post it to let other people know about it. I always state up front to my customers, that the info I provide in no ways render any kind of quarantee, or warranty. As for feeling cheap and used; well that's just a personal fight for all of us... Thanks, Frank
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Got something in the mail the other day from CAP; Complete Appliance Protection. It offers: (Quote from the letter) "A 90-Day Guarantee for Home Inspectors, which protects the home buyer from having problems with the major mechanical systems in the home: Furnace, A/C, Water Heater, Stove, & Dishwasher." Does anyone know about this company or policy? I have attached a link to the site, where the brochure they sent me is viewable. http://www.thecapprogram.com/homeinspector
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Is that a state wide code, or just regional? I have always been under the impression that it's kind of a standard to remove them. Never seen any Code about it though. What other antique plumbing do they require there? Do they require builders to install drum traps as well???
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Swolsen, That is strange. Is this a requirement for new construction, or just for whole house traps?
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These should be great for inspecting old homes, especially around old civil war battle grounds. http://www.theghosthunterstore.com/
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Whose Chicken Legs??? [:-smile_g
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Hey Mike, Another explanation in your case could be; assuming the first house was built first, they could have ironed out their problems, and that's why you don't see the same issues in the second house. I have seen building time lines (so to speak), where a builder in a certain development has taken more time to build one house and less time to build the next one of virtually the same plan. I know some here might think that's giving to much credit to builders, but it's just a theory. Frank
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I am pretty clear on the flex, how about the aluminum? Is this acceptable for dryer vent? Would you recommend B vent, when it goes through the exterior wall? When I was in construction we always treated dryer vent like any other exhaust vent.(When we got stuck installing it) I can't remember anybody quoting the exact code for residential dryer vent. Some accused us of overkill. I guess we took a "better safe than sorry" posture. Thanks for the help Frank
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Dryer vent for single family residential, I know vinyl is bad, but how about flexible foil type, which transitions into apparently aluminum rigid vent pipe, which exhaust out side? Go, or No Go?
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Can GFCI's work properly with an open ground. Did an inspection this morning and my little outlet polarity tester gave me a reading for open grounds for most of the outlets. This tester also has a little "GFI Popper", but I can't remember if it worked or not due to the open ground.
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I'm pretty new in the Home Inspection Business. I found easy to use templates, and pretty cheap prices at Vista Print. I had some brochures printed and shipped to me, then they just started sending me special offers, and promotions. I just take advantage of those deals. order brochures 25 at a time, and just pay for shipping. Quality wise; well seems to me, to be about average.
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I know this is a little off the subject, but in Illinois TPR discharge for a water heater has to go indirectly into a drain (Either floor drain or vented P-Trap), inside the same room as the water heater. I have seen a few discharge lines going through the floor into the crawlspace. How would anybody but the Orkin man know if there is a potential problem? So my understanding of the indirect draining process, is so homeowners can visibly notice if there is a problem of some kind with the TPR, instead of it just blowing down a drain.