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I noticed they mention connecting the wires to the terminals, and nothing about backstabbing. Why do they do it?

In the new Carbon Monoxide Alarm Detector Act for the State of Illinois, it states under Section 20. Exemptions. (2) "A residential unit that is not sufficiently close to any source of carbon monoxide so as to be at risk of receiving carbon monoxide from the source, as determined by the local building commissioner." I have a client inquiring about their building which is a 176 unit building (retirement home). Their main mechanical units are centrally located through out the building, but not in the units themselves. The actual township has no real building commission. Should they refer to the State Fire Marshall's office, to determine if the residential units are sufficiently close? What other agencies would handle/Enforce such a matter? Here is a link to view the Carbon Monoxide Alarm Detector Act: http://www.ilga.gov/legislation/publica ... 741&GA=094

I had done a similar inspection, on probably the hottest & most humid day this summer. I had done the exterior and roof first, and by the time I got inside I couldn't stop sweating.( I was very nervous when I opened the electrical panel W/ moist hands) By the time I got to the crawl space, everything was beading with condensation. The client had concerns about the ventilation. There were 6 vents, and I can't remember how many Sq/FT, but according to my calculations, it actually was sufficient venting. I had informed the client that it was an extreme humid day, and the vents only appeared to be insufficient. I recommended to him, that if the condensation remained to be an issue, he could replace a couple vents with power vents, and that could help with the air flow. I also recommended a dehumidifier since the crawl space was very accessible, and had electrical, and a sump relatively close to the entrance. Do you think these were good recommendations, or what else could I have recommended?

Yes it is a good idea, I have always put a recommendation in my reports if their isn't one in the home. However this is still Illinois, and anybody familiar with Illinois politics can wonder if Governor Rod Blagojevich, has a relative in the Carbon Monoxide Detector business.

Couldn't connect with the link. Found another link: http://www.ilga.gov/legislation/publica ... 741&GA=094

Have to agree with Brian G. How can you really Root for your team, when they are playing against your star player of your fantasy league. A few of my closest friends are involved in this fantasy league, and I can't even have a decent conversation with them on the phone after the game, because they are worried about their other players. They even talked me into trying it a few years ago. I did try it, but about week 2 or 3, I gave up. I just didn't seem that important to me. About the only time I will get caught up in what other teams are doing, is during is the NCAA March Madness. And I don't think you can compare the two. And I tell you what isn't a fantasy this year.....DA' BEARS!!!

I'm pretty sure there should be a sealer plate at the throat of the fireplace. They usually are removable so they can be cleaned. Maybe that one was never put back in or it had fallen out and never re-installed. Check this link; it has a pretty good illustration of how an insert should be installed: http://www.chimneysweeponline.com/cpsumins.htm

I don't know if this manual from the Timber Piling Council would help you or not. There is some helpful info there anyway, especially about foundation design, and stress values for different species of timber. http://www.timberpilingcouncil.org/manu ... manual.pdf

Dick Jauron returns this week to Solder's Field. Will he make a facial expression? Or will he still keep the cat-nap look of boredom he held for too many years as head coach of Da' Bears? How many times will Losman be sacked?

It good to hear that I'm not the only one that has had a T&P stay open. When I did test them and this happened, A good whack with the handle of a screwdriver usually did the trick, but I had to ask myself: How long is this going to work?

Does anyone actually flip the manual release of the T&P to ensure it drains? I was told it was OK to test, but my plumbing experience has taught me not to touch if possible. Sometimes they have a tendency not to close all the way.

If you have a multi-tester or a tester with an "Omega" symbol you can test the resistance. Hook up both leads to the terminals of the element. If the element is OK you should read some kind of number. If the element is burned up then the reading should be nothing, because the element is "open" Just like if you touch the 2 leads together, you'll get a reading, and if you leave them apart you'll get nothing. Hope this helps; I know it's not to descriptive.

According to my info - If you have a 5000 Watt element with a 240 Volts the minimum wire size should be #10 Copper or # 8 Aluminum, and a maximum 30 amp breaker. That's my info, I'm not sure about the IRC, or the NEC. Ohm's Law says to figure out Amps - divide the Watts by the Volts.

It's starting to feel like 1985 all over again. Can this defense make another Super Bowl Shuffle? They sure have some characters, all they need is a little more individual personality.

Recall for Robert Shaw gas control valves, which are on a lot of major brand water heaters. Including: American Pro Line, Bradford White, GE, Hotpoint, Lochinvar, Rheem, Whirlpool, etc. etc. For more details click here.

Sounds like corrosion. Maybe, dissimilar metal contact somewhere in the wiring. Excess moisture in that bathroom could also play a role(Maybe).

How much would you charge to re-inspect????

I was wondering how much do other inspectors go into appliances. I can imagine each inspection might be a little different, especially for new construction and warranty inspections. But I'm wondering for the run of the mill pre-closing inspections. I usually go for the dishwasher, and washing machine first. Microwaves not all the time. Stove tops of course but older model electric ovens I'm a little cautious. Trash compactors, I've only had the pleasure of 2, and they were both broken. How about your thoughts comments or opinions? Thanks...

Houses built after 1978, could no longer contain lead paint. However I think it was pretty much extinct for residential use before then. The military kept using it, and I think road paint still has some lead.

BOO!!!

By chance does anyone here know what are the restrictions (If Any) for road side post boxes, in regards to height. My neighbor's mail box got clobbered last night, and I thought I would be a nice guy and install a new post for him. Now it looks a little high in respect to the others on our street. And our regular letter carrier is a real pain in the neck, when it comes to "regulations" like this.

About thew first picture: It just looks bad. They should of installed the counter flashing all the way down. It looks like there is a crack in the mortar, thats a vulnerable spot for a moisture leak. The second picture, it's hard to tell. I think it might be all right, since it's under the soffit. How wide is the soffit? And is this an area where rain could blow into? I think those would be 2 important issues. But this could come down to local roofing codes. I would of used something else than motor. And I would advise client if the builder refuses to add appropriate flashing, to monitor area for any future moisture problems.

Maybe they want to trap and use sewrer gas as an alternative fuel source. Was there a washing macine gray box? Those usually suck the p-trap dry.