fqp25

They allow 15 feet for clear water waste, such as condensate, or waste or overflow form a water chiller. Most residential condensate lines do have running traps. I'm interested in the bar sink connection as well. At the very minimum, there should be some kind of stand pipe to eliminate splashing. I recently saw a messed up washing machine drain connection also. This one is about 5 feet in the air, connected untrapped to a 2" sink line. The hose was stretched to the max. I was surprised not see any water marks or stains from past leakage. Download Attachment: w1.jpg 39.73 KB

That is just wrong... First of all according to State Code, any indirect [gray water] waste line can not exceed 5 feet in length. I'm not sure about that line but 5 feet is not that much. Also according to the State's definition of Indirect Waste: "A pipe that does not connect directly with a drainage system, but conveys liquid waste by discharging through an air gap INTO the drainage system." "Into" not above. Either way it's just wrong.

There seems to be a lot of advertising all over this page. Kama Raja-sex enhancement ad doesn't seem right, located on a (so-called) Mold web page. Plus the HI & Realtors Link Partnership banner tells you about the integrity of the site.

Hey Bob, I don't know if this PDF is the same exact guide Kurt is talking about. There are calculations on pg# 39 to determine if room with appliances is confined or unconfined. http://peoplesenergy.com/_pdf/misc/PG_D ... _guide.pdf

Do you mean rub yourself with "Bounce" or just carry them with you? That's a new one to me...

Report wiring like this?... Download Attachment: lights1.JPG 33.98 KB Download Attachment: lights2.JPG 23.46 KB

Tub - Toilet Clearance Like an airline seat... Download Attachment: knee_knocker.JPG 113.31 KB

Thanks guys, I just ordered "Overcurrents and Undercurrents". I can't wait to get it.

I have noticed this lately on newer houses, and I wonder what others think about it: Lately I have noticed bathrooms having GFCI Protection, but the actual mechanism located in another bathroom. I automatically think a cheap builder, won't spring for another GFCI Outlet. I always report this to my client just for they know what they have to do to reset the circuit. I find this a nuisance, and very annoying. Also I have also noticed that sometimes all the lights are wired downstream from the GFCI. Is this a safety issue? Especially if they have to go into another bathroom to reset.

I recently did a warranty inspection for a client, who told me that the Builder/Developer would not recognize anything from a final construction inspection. Their policy is the Certificate of Occupancy is good enough. Luckily the home owner had the common sense to have an one year warranty inspection.

Sorry just read the post again. Yes very sloppy, most likely a blind Do-It-Yourself-er.

Is this elbow on the vertical or horizontal?

Carle, There is a very interesting thread back on Nov. 30, 2006, about this very subject. A GFCI tester will not work without a ground, but the GFCI itself should work...

Ahh Heck, Maybe I should just save my money and fill up my tank, get a couple bottles of water, and if I'm really lucky, maybe a good cup of coffee...

Man that picture is a little creepy...

Wow, the wise men have spoken (or should I say Wize Guys?). There is nothing more I would like, than to get a new tablet, but that would fall into an impulse purchase for me. I'm wanting to spend about half of what a new Lenovo,(which is very nice) would cost. As for my problem; it is not looking for a new software but something that will run my software and is not as (I Can't believe I'm saying this) cumbersome as my laptop. I usually set up like Captain has stated, I do not lug my laptop around all over the place during an inspection. At times I do wish I would have something better for data collection, with my software. You guys have been very helpful, with your experiences with Tablets Vs. Pocket PC's. Got a little thinking to do...

Been thinking about evolving from the pen & paper to a Pocket PC or PDA. I really have very little experience using them, I have some friends and acquaintances who use them and they are more organized than before. (It seems like) Plus they have nothing but positive comments about them for what ever application they use it for. I was looking in past post and the most recent discussion I could find was from 06/05. I would like all the bells and whistles, but do I need them? I'm not set on any specific brand. I plan on using myreportwriter.com's system with it, as well as other administrative duties. (Is there a model that gives an electro-shock when your running late?) All comments are appreciated... -Frank

Ahhh, Rhyme Time with Brian G... Thanks guys, it just seemed like an excessive amount. I could feel a draft from the housing unit when the blower fan was on.

Three year old house. Green substance on top of furnace under condensate line. At first I thought it's extra flux that dripped down when they soldered the refrigerant lines. But it just seems like that amount is too much. Could not get a good look into coil itself. Download Attachment: fqp1.JPG 122.74 KB

What's "Underwear"???[?][?] Heee Hawww!!!

It's not all that bad... It's all water (somewhat) Here's a little explanation if you got the time... http://www.mwrdgc.dst.il.us/plants/tarp.htm

Mike, Which airport were you at? If you got stuck at Midway, you were pretty close to the storm/sanitary sewer; they call it the Sanitary Canal. Buildings downspouts drain into the sanitary sewer, it's suppose to be trapped on the building side of the connection. Sumps can discharge into the sewer also. I'm not sure, but when I was up there (until 2005) it was called combined sewer system, because it all drains to the Sanitary Canal. Don't tell the Olympic Comitee...

TIJ Tankless Water Heater Inspection Checklist *id="size4"> Outdoor and Indoor Water Heater Location [ ] Proper clearance from combustible surfaces observed. (_______________________________) [ ] Sufficient fresh air supply for proper operation of water heater. (_______________________) [ ] Air supply free of corrosive elements and flammable vapors. (________________________) [ ] Provisions made to protect area from water damage. (_________________________) [ ] Sufficient room to service heater. (__________________________) [ ] Combustible materials, such as clothing, cleaning materials, rags, etc. clear of the heater and vent piping. (__________________________) [ ] Water heater is properly attached to the wall. (____________________________) Water Supply [ ] Water supply has sufficient pressure. (__________________________) [ ] Air purged from water heater and piping. (________________________) [ ] Water connections tight and free of leaks (_________________________) [ ] Water filter is clean and in place. (___________________________) [ ] Materials used are as instructed in this manual. (______________________) [ ] Water pipes are insulated and protected from freezing. (_______________________) Gas Supply [ ] Gas type matches rating plate. (________________________) [ ] Gas supply pressure is sufficient for the water heater. (_______________________) [ ] Gas line equipped with shut-off valve, union and sediment trap. (_________________________) [ ] Gas supply line correct size. 1/2" up to 150,000 Btu 3/4" Up to 200,000 BTU 1"_____ [ ] Approved pipe joint compound used. (____________________________) [ ] Soap and water solution used to check all connections and fittings for possible gas leak. (________________________) [ ] Gas Company inspected installation (if required). (_______________________) Relief Valve [ ] Pressure Relief Valve properly installed and discharge line run to open drain (___________________) [ ] Discharge line protected from freezing. (________________________) Venting (IndoorWater Heaters Only) [ ] Materials used are as instructed in the manual. (_______________________) [ ] Vent connector(s) pitched downward to termination (¼" per foot of length minimum) See page 13. (____________________________) [ ] Vent connector(s) securely fastened together with high temperature silicone (500°F) (260°C) and airtight. (_____________________________) [ ] All vent runs are properly supported. (_____________________________) [ ] Vent terminal is properly installed. (___________________________) [ ] Sufficient combustion air is available. (__________________________) [ ] Maximum and minimum vent lengths are observed. (__________________________) Electrical Wiring [ ] Voltage matches rating plate. (____________________________) [ ] Water heater is properly grounded. (________________________) [ ] Supply cord and/or wiring meets all local codes. (__________________________) *Adapted from the Rheem tank less water heater installation checklist. These figures are from Bosch Aqua Star 125FX, which rated at 125,000Btu, and has a 1/2" gas inlet. The AO Smith XT-190 is rated at 190,000 Btu and has a 3/4" inlet. I am uncertain where exactly you would step-up the inlet, wouldn't that differ between manufactures? I just entered 150,000 Btu for 1/2" and 200,000 for 3/4", if anyone can be more accurate please correct this.

Mike, How about the appropriate size gas line? These tankless heaters' popularity is on the rise. We might start running into Do-it-yourself amature piping. Some models may require 3/4" piping, and it can be real easy to connect a 3/4" x 1/2" reducer in the fitting, then connect 1/2" line (rigid or flex). Most manufactures (Bosch, Takaji, Noritz, AO Smith) say not to use a smaller diameter size than the inlet of the heater. As long as your checking the shut-off, union, and sediment trap(Rheem's fancy terminology), might as well check the inlet. Just a thought...