inspector57

Switch the indoor thermostat to "emergency" or "Aux" mode. That will kill the outside unit but keep the backup heat on. This is what that switch is for. If you pull the disconnect at the outdoor unit on some brands, you kill the low voltage that runs the whole setup. This is something I always test for on heat pumps, check for heat, backup, and kill the outdoor unit with the emergency heat setting. When we have precipitation here at below freezing, it is quite often freezing rain and can kill the balance on fan blades, quite a ruckus. Jim

Don't forget the drywall under the stairs to protect the frame from fire. Jim

Sounds like your customers are just wishing they bought a different product. All wood floors will have some imperfections, that is part of the character of the product. I might make a trip to a flooring store and look at all the samples with a picture of the floor in question in hand just for my own personal curiosity. By the way, what is "car" decking? I have never heard that term. Jim

More correctly they are 3 pole contactors, no such thing as a three phase contactor to my knowledge. I can't tell the exact attachment configuration, but since this is in a new home, it is doubtful that it is a weekend warrior. My guess is they needed several different circuits and just installed 3 pole contactors rather than six single pole or three double pole. Jim

This is simply two three pole contactors similar to the low voltage contactor in any central air condensing unit. It appears they have simply run six lighting circuits into the box to turn everything off and on with one central switch. This is not a big cause of concern except when they remove it, there will obviously be splices in this location. My guess is they will leave the box and just remove or bypass the contactors. Everything will need to be supported, clamped, routed like any other circuit or junction box. Jim

Hey Buster, what you see is very typical here. I am in DFW and see it all the time. The newer homes are much better since the Energy Code mandated a thermal break in window frames. Typically this will only happen during rapid drops in the temperature when high realative humidity is trapped in the house and condenses on the colder window frames. Be sure to use exhaust fans in bathrooms, etc. to reduce humidity from occupancy like showers and cooking. Even slightly opening a couple of windows for a few hours will help dilute the humidity load. Worst case, wipe off the condensation during severe weather events and wait for the weather to change, it is Texas after all. (For those outside of Texas, the old saying here is: (If you don't like Texas weather, just wait a while, it will change) Jim

Steven, it seems we are more or less on the same page. I may have misinterpreted your original post. I read it as using the "in-line exhaust fan" as somehow venting the attic and bedrooms. My bad. If you are using traditional A/C though I would still advise against ventilating the hot air to the outdoors since the makeup air would have to be drawn from somewhere which is usually going to be hotter and more humid than the interior air which is exhausted. I am not familiar with your climate and cooling needs, but in our (Texas) cooling climate it is best not to try to mix ventilation and cooling to accomplish cooling. Now ventilation for fresh air, etc. is needed but at much lower rates than what would be needed to accomplish cooling of the upstairs as you mentioned. If you are using just ventilation instead of A/C for cooling, that is what we in the south used years ago (before A/C was common) and referred to as attic fans or whole house fans. It is very effective at times, but has severe limitations in extremley hot humid climates. On your plan to recycle the hot air to the lower level, might I suggest designing your heating/cooling ductwork with appropriately placed vents and returns and using one of the new high effeciency variable speed blowers. I have one which runs at about 10% normal speed and uses only 70 watts. I run it continuously to keep the house at uniform temperatures summer and winter. Sounds like your roof vent system is right on track. I hope this helps, Jim

Steven, you did not ask for input on this, but it shoulds like you are mixing your systems and headed for trouble. I would recommend going to http://www.buildingscience.com/default.htm and look at various construction methods and attic ventilation. In general one should never make a penetration in the air barrier (sheet rock) so that interior air mixes with attic air if you are cooling or heating the interior space. Warehouses with no seperate attic space are different. Also, think of what is being drawn into the house when placing the attic and house under negative pressure from an exhaust fan, radon, unconditioned air, insecticides from crawl spaces, etc. only need a slight pressure differential to move to the interior living space. A general understanding of the physics of air and moisture movement in the structure is needed for any building design, especially when departing from standard systems. I am not meaning to bust your chops on this, just hoping to help. Jim

Poor drainage is death to foundations around my neck of the woods. Our state required form lists "foundations" then "grading and drainage" and you must report as inspected or in need of repair. Guess what 90% of houses get? We have some of the worst soils and traditionally bad drainage since most homes are slabs. That same 90% have at least some foundation stress indicators. I spend more time on explaining grading and drainage than anything else. Most foundation repairs run $10,000 or more and alot of it could be prevented with proper drainage. I can't speak to basements and drainage since they are not common here, but I always, always comment on drainage. Jim

No such law (about accessories) in the Texas book. In fact we specifically exclude cabinets, floor coverings, etc. Nothing prevents them from being reported on, but nothing requires it. About the only strange thing for most people outside the state would be reporting on the oven temperature. There is no national requirement for building codes. Texas only recently approved a default building code as part of a builders home warranty law, but there is no enforcement or inspection at the time of construction for areas outside of a city or county that has adopted a building code and enforcement. I second the vote on reporting on the structural and mechanical systems. Sympathize with the buyers, but don't report an the lack of optional items. No code requires toilet paper holders, not a life or safety issue. Now common sense is a different animal. Jim

There is supposed to be an insulator fact sheet attached in a prominent location near the attic entry which tells what standards it was insulated to when it was built as well as indicatiors rulers every 300 sq ft according to 2003 IRC. I think this is a pretty common requirement. I always recommend insulating to todays EPA/Hud standards as optimum. Pretty easy to see and report what is there and tell them todays's standard is__. Jim

Mike, I have IW and will have to agree that their service is top notch. Bob will likely be the one to personally answer your questions if you have any. Pretty trouble free, but I am still getting used to using it at the inspection (rather than back at the office) developing your own library of issues will be key to saving time and writting the report in your own words. I will have to confess, I still don't like to deliver reports on-site even though I started back in the dark ages with hand written reports.

Now plastic strips on the TOP of the tar strip and shingle is a different story, I would call that a defect. Now who made the mistake is another story, the manufacturer should not have made it that way, the roofer should not have left it that way. I guess there is enough blame for everyone. That is one defect I have never seen, must be a regional thing. Jim

Lewis, I am a new poster here, so forgive me if I offend, but the plastic strips on the bottom of shingles do not need to be removed. The clear plastic protectors are to keep the shingles from sticking together in the bundles when stacked precisely on each other in the bundle. When the shingles are spread out on the roof, the strips will not line up with the tar strips on the shingle below, (there should be felt below, not shingle) and therefore no problem. You will not find any requirement or recommendation from the manf. to remove the plastic strip. I have seen this error repeated in other forums and I just could not let it pass without correction. Jim