rjw

Perhaps, then, you'll favor us with a short, concise discussion of the "arc" symbolism in "Gravities Rainbow" and whether the opening line is, in fact, the first manifestation of that thematic congruence? No more, say, than two blue books, skipping lines and writing on once side of each leaf? Opps.... wrong forum TTFN

I find it ironic that in a thread about writing skills, the term boilerplate has been almost entirely mis-used - it is not cruddy, bad writing reproduced ad nauseam. At least for legal documents (which our reports are, in that they may face scrutiny by legal types) boiler plate is language which has proven itself as effective and highly resistant to attack. "Boiler plate" is good. Ask your attorney if you can't just cut the boiler plate out of your contract: "It's just boiler plate, isn't it?" Crappy writing isn't the same thing. And, I believe, one element of good writing is accuracy of expression

Unfortunately, neither can many of the people who write for some of the software companies.

It appears there has been some relationship found: From the Dallas News: "The city [Frisco] began studying the issue last year after fire officials noted that in at least six fires in the last two years the point of origin could be linked to the flexible steel piping. In November, the manufacturers temporarily agreed to stop selling the product in Frisco to give the city time to study the issue. "Fire Marshal Don Fernandez said the city determined that lightning strikes on homes that had black steel piping did not cause fires. Gas leaks did occur, as they had with the flexible tubing, he said." And I think this is the same link that didn't work in the other message: http://www.selectinspect.com/pdf/FRISCO ... %20ban.pdf

Is the camera poited up? Down, 30 degrees, straight down? Is the drywall seam in the ceiling? I just can't figure out how the pic is oriented. FWIW, I've begun using 2 shots for many of my report pics: one wide for "orietation" and one detail.

Brain fart I guess - First time I've been wrong about something Just ask my ex....

The ASHI Ethics prohibit it. None the less, evean as a member I will recommend some contractors when I am familiar with their work and confident of their abilities. I don't recommend the contractors and other trades who cold call me - not that I have anything against cold calling, but I need that higher level of knowledge.

As Bill said, likely a collapsed baffle, or other obstruction of the flue; possibly (rare, but I've seen it) air curtain effect around the draft hood when the draft is so high the air pulled in around the skirt blocks flue gases getting out of the internal flue. (The only way I know of to confirm an air curtain is with O2 readings with a combustion analyzer) Aside from that, scale buildup in a 22 year ood water heater would typically cost an extra $400 -500 a year in increased efficiency (assuming the 'typical' scale buildup of 1/10" +/- a year.)

Is that 3' rule local or new? As I understand the GAMA rules, it's 2' above any vertical surface within 10' and distance above the roof depends on pitch, with the minimum being less tahn 3' (I don't have my table with me right now)

What Chris said: If you look closely at them, you'll see the "upper busses" are separated from the lower branch circuit busses.

Whenever I run across the actual installation manuals, if I have "alone time" I glance over them (while my client is reading and signing the contract) There is significant variation between manufacturers and even models. I prefer to avoid creating an impression in my client that I am responsible for knowing the installation specifics for every model of 90+ If I have seen a 'potential' problem and find a specific reference in an available installation manual, I'll use it, but I otherwise leave it to "the experts." Size/length of the vent depends on model, angles, etc. Charts required. Pitch: my understanding is they should always be pitched back 1/4" ft back to the furnace. FWIW, the biggest mistake I see is that they discharge too low above grade: in the US, every manual I have seen says 12" above grade or the 'anticipated snow cover, 18" in Canada"

Close, but no cigar. Those ducts might decrease the negative air pressure in the area of the returns if they are poorly sealed and localize/"focus" makeup air supply when exhaust fans are run. OTOH, if those installers have really figured out how to pressurize a house simply with 6" duct work, find out how they do it and file a patent and you can retire as the richest man on earth.

And how about 1. access and floor decking for service 2. cleanace between the flue and truss (looks ok, but ...?)

Mike, you might want to press your BB vender to work on the firefox incompatibility (&/or check you usage statistics) IE is now reported to be under 80% usage in the US. I use Mozilla myself, and I really have to want to post a pic to open IE and manuever back to the thread just to post a pic Most times that I think of posting one I don't bother.

How is the picture oriented?: looking up. down across? What's going on with the PEX behind the truncated 2x? Could the PVC be acting as a "conduit for the CSST?

Agreed, there is confusion aboiut the word "make-up" air. The HVAC sources I've looked at somethimne use it to refer only to the air introduced around the flam but not through the burner; othert talk about it as all combustion air. Others refer to is as air introduced into a house envelope to replace that 'expelled' from the house envelop: thus, make up air for air diplaced by bath fans, for air displaced by venting of combustion gases, etc. In my area, the only stated need for make up air is to prevent backdrafting - thus when a furnace is in an attic (rare in this area, as well, since most houses have basements) a supply of make up air such as a skuttle vent froom outside to the return isn't required. In fact, MI but not OH has a make up air requirment at all.

In my area, there is no need for additional makeup air for attic installations - the attic ventilation is sufficient. For a few years Micigan required a Skuttle vent supplying makeup air attached to returns The real need for makeup air can only be determined through testing: especially testing for changes in draft during operation and especially when the blower comes on. In my draft testing (as part of the CO Safety Analysis Proptocol I follow), the rules for "unconfined space" seem to be very conservative: I've never tested an installation where 50 cu ft/1,000 was marginal: roughly speaking, I find 25 cu ft/1000 is usually sufficient (depending on the age and tightness of the building and utility room - For example, a typical two car garage is good for up to about 115,000 BTU. When I see garage installations, they usually run 130,000-180,000 btu for furnace and water heater. I have never draft tested such an installation where that was an insufficient volume of air. But - of course, I still call it out.

I suspect not, or not well - not without something moving air out of the space (like rising flue gases) Although, there is negativepressure typically in basements, so maybe, especially if it is an older, less tightly built house.

Well, I don't speak Polish myself, so I'm not as bright as the average 3 year Pole .... Ah well. It works! BTW, the drawings are from the Jim Davis's CO and Combustion Analysis coursebooks

Some AHJ's won't allow ahole in the door when it's in a garage And, BTW, depending the AHJ, one way to bring air in from above without flooding the room with cold air is to use a gooseneck or containment box and an drop. (See attachment) But some AHJ's might say that doesn't meet the opening at the top rule. Since no one I've talked to has been able to explain the rule for 1/2 high 1/2 low, and since air seems to find its way through either, .... Download Attachment: ExteriorAirSupply02.jpg 100.96 KB

Presumably there was no visible reason in the attic/or space above for the hot spots? Or no access? I only see elec radiant ceilings about once every 2 years, so I start by telling my clients that they are "rare" and I doin't get the kind of day in day out experience with them as I do with other systems. It's too late now, of course, but I would have left the system cranked for a while and retested (LAser thermometer?) Based on what you said, I don't know of any reason to be concerned. Maybe someone will have more knowledge about them.

We're a big liability wall for agents, I don't know any who don't recommmned an inspection on everything Mike I like that idea (although I'd be a little concerned about legal issues - nothjing definite - but its the sort of thing that raises old, rusty alarm bells

I haven't worked with one myself - my understanding is that there are several things besides moisture which cause it to read high. I'll stick with my pin sticker....

FWIW, my understanding is that, besides corrosion from dissimilar metals, other concerns can include leaks/condensation/mold inside the ducts, and "unplanned air exchange/leakage" in the ducts.

Are those flues on the right of the pic #2? I'd be a lot more concerned with their configuration and the paper insulation facing up close to the one.