Brandon Whitmore

Thanks guys, That is exactly what I saw-- time to amend my report.... As always I really appreciate all of your help. Hopefully I can return the favor one of these days.

See if you can make anything of it-- should have posted this to begin with just in case it helps. Keep in mind this is a clear plastic box, the splices are visible, and the wires are straight and sistered together on each end Image Insert: 4.27 KB

It was on a 1991 home (not modular or manufactured) where it looks like the installer of a recent drainage system installation performed the wiring himself. The splice device looks pretty good-- I just wish I could remember what it said on it once I got out of the crawlspace so I could look it up. I called a couple electricians who could not figure out what it was from my description....

Is anyone aware of any splices allowed for use with 12 or 14 gauge wire besides the standard junction box? The home I looked at today had a clear plastic in line splice that was rectangular shaped to where you could see the wires pushed against each other at the 2 ends of the wire. I took a picture, but the flash pretty much ruined it, and of course I did not realize this until I got home.

I may be the only one out there, but I never call out the 3-2-10 rule on a chimney used as a chase for a B vent to run through for a furnace. Now if someone ended up connecting a wood stove or something , that would be a different issue, but then permits should be pulled and that should be caught--- right? Is a masonry chimney really considered a chimney per the requirements if it is not in use(besides being a chase)??

Kurt- I have bounced back and forth with the wording above- sorry. This is in regards to any of the older foundations that are coated on the interior or exterior of a foundation. In my last home I inspected, the interior basement was recently finished and the foundation was not visible-- so the exterior was visibly coated. (I just wrote up the foundation as inaccessible as a result) I know at least some of the coating was replaced, because there was a section of crawlspace where there were cracks in the foundation that did not show through the coating, and some that did (foundation has dropped about 1 inch at one corner of the home to where the siding no longer overlaps the foundation). I was keeping the question a little vague to see what I could learn from the masters Thanks for all the above info.

Thanks guys

Are there any standards requiring the installation of a backer board material to the plywood prior to setting tile on countertops? (ceramic, granite, etc.) The one year old home I inspected today had a granite tile directly secured to the plywood. (some of the edge tiles fell off about a week ago according to the owner). Just does not seem right to me.

Jim, don't you see foundations that have a more recent skim coat as well? The one I did yesterday looked like newer work and just makes me wonder what was covered up. How about the skim coat that projects beyond the siding where the materials meet? (or is touching the foundation)-- how do you address that?

I just wanted you guys to know that an article in WORKING RE MAGAZINE has been written using this topic-- you never know where the information in this forum will end up- www.workingre.com/workingre/rose-by-any ... nline.html

Thanks Bill I just like having good answers for the WHY when clients ask. Many of my clients couldn't care less if something is wrong if they understand why it is wrong.

Kurt, I agree with you- is there any documentation out there that I can base my report on when writing up the reports. The reason I asked this question is that the skim coating has never seemed to me to do any good for keeping out moisture (especially when it is installed on just the exposed surface of the basement foundation on the exterior). I typically see this coating applied when the foundation is getting crumbly and they are just covering the exposed deterioration and attempting to help prevent further deterioration (above grade again). Any books or other forms of documentation would be helpful.

I just got a new twist to things. I did not realize that even though the receptacle and wire are rated for 90 degrees that the panel may not be. I did not even realize (or remember) that panels had a temp. rating that is typically 75 degrees. I checked my own home panel and there is no temp. rating on it, but I was just assured by another electrician friend that they do have temp. ratings for the panels-- too bad I did not check the panel for a temp. rating.

Bill, Could you explain the problem with 2 traps on one arm?

I could not see enough of the wire insulation to tell, but it was brand new Romex. (less than a year old). Isn't all newer Romex rated for 90 deg.?

Backslope in drain pipe. Flex drain pipe materials improper. P trap (if there is one) is too high at the disposal side (or missing P trap). Is that the dishwasher drain hose running through the cabinet base?

Mike, I typically see this material installed on foundations with crumbly concrete. I understand that it is waterproofing to a point, but usually breaks up. My concern is that when tapping on the material, you will hear hollow sounds in areas and you have to wonder how thick the original concrete is at this location. There are many times when the skim coated material/ parging has broken off and deteriorated concrete is visible. Now take a home that has been recently coated. The basement is finished so there is no way of inspecting the foundation on the interior and the exterior is no longer visible. How do you check for signs of cracking, etc. I have always at least written up the foundation as inaccessible, but was wondering what wording others used if any. How do you decide when a concrete wall has gotten too crumbly for skim coating/ parging?

I am inspecting a lot of older homes with foundations that were crumbling so they have been skim coated (older basements mostly). I am curious as to what others write in their reports when the original foundation is no longer visible due to the skim coating. Also, when tapping on the skim coats on most of the homes you will hear a hollow sound at least in areas so there is no bonding between the materials. The skim coat often is breaking back off the foundation as well in some areas.

I inspected a house today with 10 gauge wires running to 40 amp breakers for the dryer. The wiring is newer Romex wiring and the outlet for the dryer is rated at 50 amps. The panel was signed off by the city recently. I called my electrician buddy and he says this is wrong. I am actually questioning whether it is wrong since the only connection is at the dryer outlet-- any help would be appreciated.

Brian, I can not point you to a code requirement or anthing, but I believe they do require a P trap

I have not looked this up since I have had no complaints since starting my own business (serious knock on wood concern here) , but at least with my insurance company I read that I had to notify them of any complaints that may end up being a problem. If you want the exact wording I could read through the book of paperwork they sent me (boring). The paperwork basically said that I would not be covered if they were not notified in a timely manner. My insurance company is FREA.

http://www.monotube.com/co_gilmoursuppl ... -specs.asp shows the color coding of the copper pipe

I believe blue is type L

This seems to be a pretty good article for evaluation of building damage. http://ams.confex.com/ams/pdfpapers/81094.pdf

I do not even break out the moisture meter unless I already have concerns in the area. I will then check the area of concern and move out from there to "pattern" the area to see whether or not I am getting a false reading. I believe urine has metals in it and will set off a meter even when there is no moisture left in the urine stained area. At least or me, the moisture meter is only for back up of concerns I already have (personal opinion only on this as I am sure others use them all the time).