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kurt

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Everything posted by kurt

  1. You're asking an insurance and legal question, not a home inspection related question. And you're dropping links, which have been removed. Hang around and contribute if you'd like.
  2. It's not bleed. Agreement all around on that one. It's not heat from the torch either. It's the tar from the hot mop. It's not a cold applied application. It's SBS; it can go down cold with adhesive or laid into hot mopped asphalt. SBS mod bit, when laid into a hot asphalt and a base sheet, has seams looking like this. Google "SBS modified bitumen images". You'll get a few looking just like this. Also, the powdery white stuff doesn't wash off. It's SBS. It will subside slightly, but it doesn't go away. At least, it doesn't go away for a very long time. Following image screen grabbed from googling SBS images..... Click to Enlarge 726.08?KB
  3. kurt

    Rotchulance

    Yeah, I can see that. Very nice. Did you save the mummified squirrels one usually finds in these things? I like to grind them up and put them on my cornflakes.
  4. Yeah, I thought there was a 1990 or 1994 reference marker. After that, I have no idea anymore.
  5. Yeah, back in 2007. I looked up the thread. Inconclusive. The conversation devolved into meaninglessness, with the usual arguments and chastisements. I couldn't remember either, so I asked again. I also stopped mentioning it, until today when a smarty pants customer asked and had some knowledge about vermiculite, asbestos, Libby Montana, etc., etc.
  6. What's the consensus about the vermiculite in gas log installations? Did we decide it's OK since it's post 1994?
  7. kurt

    Puzzler

    I'm kinda thinking along the lines of rjbrown. IOW, I don't think it matters.
  8. kurt

    Puzzler

    Not in any detail, no. I think they're brilliant. Thnx. I checked and they're in all the big boxes. Readily available. This is what I'm thinking. Multiple sensors, maybe some zone baffles, and programming is how this is solved.
  9. He's a Principal @ Tri County..... http://www.tchomeinspectors.com/historic.htm
  10. Yes, the vapor barrier part just dropped down the priority scale. I'd call Kibbel.
  11. kurt

    Puzzler

    Why not plumbing?
  12. kurt

    Puzzler

    I'm curious what "some" means......"Some gets blown back into the air again". Some? "Some" would seem to be substantially less what I put in the air when I cook rice for dinner, and way less than a human respirates in a day. I'm going to measure "some" and see if there's any measurable difference between auto and continuous.
  13. kurt

    Puzzler

    FTR, this is the only group of Hi's I can accommodate. Thanx for the input.
  14. I misread on my previous answer. Brandon's right; no water should get into the intake; that's a problem. Water getting into the exhaust...not really, but the amount of moisture that might actually get in is probably less than that being produced by the furnace. I need to retire.....
  15. kurt

    Puzzler

    This is a big fancy house. Simply closing registers has marginal impact. I'm not worried about too much moisture from the coil. I suppose...maybe....but I can measure that and know. So, continuous blower helps. I'm thinking programming and modulating temps by cycling equipment differently than we've been doing is the next experiment. Get some Nest stats and go from there.
  16. Not without knowing the supplier. The sheet metal shop we get our stuff from talks about weights and grades; they understand it, I don't particularly, I let them figure stuff out.
  17. Yes, sort of, maybe in a few very specific and highly unlikely conditions, but no. There's already a lot of moisture in the pipe from condensation.
  18. Do more than a bit. It's an awesome building. Make it a player in the experience. I bet you could run some classes that use the building as the lab. It ain't pimping; bad connotations with that word. You saved a historic building. It's a lab into the past. Don't go smarmy, but emphasize what you got. It's a cool thing.
  19. My WAG.... It's the combustion air intake for the furnace, but the installer decided to pull combustion air from interior instead of the exterior (which is allowed), and they capped the pipe. What's a drone going to show that's not already apparent? Seems like the answer is to be found on the interior, not exterior.
  20. Ok, the issue I've seen isn't with Moen, although I suppose it could be. Has it subsided at all, or is it the same consistent condition after several months?
  21. What grade of copper? I've not seen copper "rust" like that. It could be effecting the roof, yes.
  22. kurt

    Puzzler

    My tech is an ME. It's the builder's ME that created this thing and is now telling us to live with it.
  23. What kind of fixtures? I have a reason for asking. After that, what Fabry said.
  24. Your problem is the client; he'd being a dolt. Cut the trees back. Trees like a fresh haircut. The roof will too.
  25. The guy gave you a standard pitch without any particular investigation. I'd forget him for the time being, and he costs too much. It's not a vapor barrier if it's old, worn, and has holes. You need a real vapor barrier, heavy weight scrim reinforced plastic, run up the walls about a foot or more if possible, sealed to the foundation with termination bar and caulk, sealed around all posts, pipes, penetrations, etc., etc. Vapor barrier, with the emphasis on barrier (or retarder as the dweebocracy now insists). In your perfect iteration, you'd then spray (SPF) foam the foundation walls from the subfloor to lapping it down over the vapor barrier. Depending on several variables, I might want to ventilate the exterior side of the VB to exterior; there are ways to do this that I won't go into, but essentially, you don't want to create a moisture path in the foundation up into the house framing. Minimize all conditions that might contribute to crawlspace water.....grading, drainage, downspouts, etc. I'm not necessarily convinced you need a full tilt perimeter drain tile, but you probably should put a sump and pump in to keep water tables lower than the crawlspace floor. No vents. Seal the crawl and condition it like the rest of the house. If you got the previous stuff right, you don't want or need vents; they can create their own problems. Maybe a humidifier, but if you got it all working right, you don't need a humidifier either. I'd fine tune these recommendations after looking at some pics and considering the variables I can't know on the internet.
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