kurt

The Christmas tree burned down?

My guess is he hasn't. He's thinking barrier instead of management; anytime there's a caulk joint on a skylite/metal roof installation, it's guessing and improv. I think it's salvageable, but there's a bunch of sheet metal that's gotta come off. Google "metal roof skylite flashing". There's a lot of pictures showing options, some right, some stupid, and a couple videos. There's a lot of ways to go at this, but they're all predicated on taking off sheet metal to get the underlayment, dams, and channels all working right.

Yeah, that fellow is a leaker. I'd guess it to leak just like you described.....high wind specific conditions. You're backing up a ways to make it right.

We'd just sit on the back porch and wait for them to traverse the yard.

I'm pretty sure it's Sta-Wet Brand Stone.

Is that your bow?

Coulda been Willard. I had a full on cat attack several years ago, thankfully before LED's and I still carried a giant flashlight. The cat kept attacking and clawing up my legs trying to get to my face, hard, fast, and violent. Totally nuts. I walloped it a couple times, and it kept coming. I had to fight my way out of the room and slam the door. I can see how a full size mountain lion could take out a human in a tenth of a second.

Yes. God Bless CNC sheet metal fabricators. The longer I do this thing, the more I think in terms of sheet metal solutions.

Here's a pic of how we set windows in stucco.....it's a sheet metal sill pan and jamb fabrication, and the window sans any molding or nailing flange is slid in from the interior. The 2nd pic shows the window in place, with a small wick that drains the pan. Click to Enlarge 37.12 KB Click to Enlarge 65 KB

It was never a very good pan in the first place. We had ours custom fabbed by a CNC sheet metal shop. I haven't done any Velux specific jobs in a few years; you're right, it changed fast. They used to make mounts for everything, now it's blinds, accessories, and pushing people toward Velux Certified Installers. Probably the smart thing; few ever got it right even when they had the stuff to do it right.

Right. Like a big rain screen application. Velux isn't going to make pans anymore?

What David said. I was assuming you had the base pan flashing for the elevated curb. The curb you're talking about increases the pitch (Velux doesn't want their stuff on anything <3:12, maybe 4:12....I forget), so they provide this base to get the pitch, but it doesn't mention the pan. If the standing seam installer used just the existing stuff from the previous shingle roof, it can't work. Velux' website instructions are lousy, but they at least imply what you want. Go here, scroll down to Instation Methods, go to Pan flashed (3rd one). Your installation would have this pan, plus the VPL4 pitched curb.

Spray hose testing can tell you something, or nothing. High pressure wind driven rain is not replicated with a garden hose. We put skylites in by visual checks; you can see if it's going to work just by how the materials are installed.

Yes.

Skylite leaks begin in the areas you can't see. The most important work occurs before the roof cover is applied. If you can see the problem, then it's total jacklegged nastiness that should all get torn out. You want lock down, don't leak, fixed that's it forever until the next roof... you're backing up to when the lite gets bracketed to the roof structure, then proceed with copious 40mil self adhered detailed into a drainage path and all other flashing, then the roof cover. Half measures don't work. Any repair solution that involves caulk or mastic....doesn't work. I know beyond ever being persuaded otherwise that skylites can be installed so they never leak. Any deviation from perfection, they usually leak. The Velux system is pretty good.

My guy said its not technically a cross break, but they call it that because they don't have a better name. So, I guess we call it a cross break. With a hole for the flue. And a hemmed and drip edged perimeter.

It's done to drain. Cross crease is a hockey play. Cross breaks are stiffening methods for broad expanses of sheet metal so these same expanses don't oilcan; it adds strength. One could apply the term to a chimney cap, sort of, but it would be wrong. Cross breaks are usually around 170-175deg and barely discernible. Their main use is stiffening thin gauge sheet metal. Use that grade sheet metal on a chimney and she rusts out in a year. Use a 170deg crease horizontally and it'll still oil can downward. Chimney caps are bent/broken to drain with a fairly sharp angle (approximately 130deg). We use 24 gauge, or 20 oz copper. (I think it's 20 oz. anyway.)

wow..... She's not hard to figure out. She's not particularly bright. You're right. That baby's going down.

Standing seam is standing seam; it's not bent/broken sheet metal. You can do it standing seam style, but that's different from what the question is. I've often described it as "hip roof" style in the old days. Now, we just send dimensions to the sheet metal fabricator and they crank it out and deliver it same day. I'll ask them what they call it.

Look closely...there's a reinforcing strut in there. I usually see them with struts. Brackets work great. If something is vibrating off it's mounts, something was done wrong.

Good question. I talk about this almost daily, but don't know a specific term. Sheet metal is bent on a machine called a "brake" or "bending brake", so we (the folks I work with) call it "breaking" the metal, as in...."break the cap to drain". I don't know what they call it elsewhere.

Around here, it usually comes from a contractor and inspector type individual.

Yep, that's how it's done. Time consuming, disruptive, PITA work.

The sixth line of the listing sheet, first words.....Listed for Outdoor Use. I don't know if that means it's OK to run it up a downspout or anything else, but it's OK to use it outdoors.

Those ledger bolts are a hole straight through the wall. There should be a horse collar or some kind of flashing to seal the bolt hole, but there never is. Any time you see those steel ledgers and bolts, expect leaks. Coping is always screwed up and leaking. The roof deck leaks aren't hard to figure out. Take up the deck and you'll find them.