Darren

Neal, Ever take a cover off the humidifier in the summer and get 'splattered' with the dried calcium deposits? Even when the damper is closed, you still get air flow and the calcium gets passed through the system. I tell my clients to remove the filter, clean the filter slot of the deposits then when winter comes, just dd a new filter.

Along the lines of disclaimers, here's an example of a 'boiler-plate' I use when I find a humidifier: [0001e]Humidifiers are outside the scope of a general home inspection. As a courtesy to my clients, I do inspect these types of units. The humidifier was ^Op/Inop^ at the time of inspection. Most humidifiers need normal maintenance & cleaning, and they should be turned off during the summer months. The filter/pad should be removed during summertime, replaced at the start of the heating season and cleaned several times during the season. I recommend you check operation during your final walk through.

So tell me Eric, when you do go home and 'reflect' and realize you "forgot' or "mis-represented' something, what do you do? Do you write a letter? Do you call the client? Do you say nothing?

When I know one of these systems is present, I look that the back-flow valve is present. "The lawn-sprinkler system looks to have the proper back-flow preventer installed. This device is designed to prevent a 'cross connection' between the lawn sprinkler & potable water in the house. The sprinkler system is controlled by a timing device. Timing devices and lawn sprinkler systems are beyond the scope of this inspection. No operational test or inspection was performed on the sprinkler system. Verification and proper operation of this system's performance by you with the sellers is recommended prior to closing." I guess that last sentence needs to be cleaned-up. Also, I use the word 'looks' instead of 'appears'; any other ideas on that one?

If you take all the crap out of that base cabinet, you'll probably see an access panel to the unit.

Explore this- http://www.dexotex.com/products/WallCoatings I've used this floor product on many commercial projects.

My first inspection today resulted in me not being able to see the difference between an 8 and a 0. My second inspection resulted in me ALMOST soiling myself. I always check for pointed screws in an electrical panel after what happened to me on 9/11. Today, while screwing the cover back on a panel, I got zapped. Seems the wire got caught inside the screw hole opening and BAM! Click to Enlarge 39.03 KB

Thanks (I think) Guess I gotta get stronger reading glasses. The .5's just aren't doing it!

Serial number indicates 1993; ANSI say 1998 specs. Gas valve says 1993. What's up with that? Click to Enlarge 46.31 KB Click to Enlarge 37.22 KB

Nah, I miss all the good stuff.

My wife's cousin plays in a band along the Jersey shore. Here's a video of his band and a 'Guest'. Eddie's the guy with the glasses behind the guest.

Also, carry a decent sized mirror. Click to Enlarge 48.38 KB

I'm with Neal on the picture taking. Most appliances are easy to photograph; some of the older ones you may have to take on a slight angle to get the numbers. I take a photo and keep it in my files. I have found the longer you do inspections, the longer it takes to do the reports. I would average about 2 hours of office time after each inspection. I do the reports at night then 'proof-read' first thing in the am after coffee. Click to Enlarge 32.44 KB

Erby, Good thing you took that panel cover off huh? And some people have suggested that part (remove a panel cover) be removed from the SOP's; go figure.

That's one of the most specious comments I've ever seen posted on this site. What other interesting "facts" have you made up for us? ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike If you like that, you'll love this one. Google Mountainassociation and check it out on P.T's site. As a side note; did P.T. have a brother? CBS had the right title years ago- "The Fleecing of America"

Will, I had a similar situation years ago with 2 bad furnace hook-ups in the same house. The gas company came out and said everything was fine. I ended up calling his supervisor, he met me on site and he 'red-tagged' both furnaces. Call the gas company again and talk to the head guy.

The tank was tested and passed by a reputable company (ATS). Most dealers offer insurance for leakage (the inspection company has a paragraph about enrolling in the insurance program offered by 'your local fuel oil dealer"). The other potential problem that we discussed and I think got her seriously thinking is the 'mature' trees very close to the tank (and the house). Click to Enlarge 75.19 KB

Actually, the house I grew up in was built in 1958 and had this same type of a set-up. Eventually, ducts were run to the upper floor and then when the central air was installed, a return was run upstairs and that made the big difference.

A client had a question about an underground oil tank (yes, I strongly advised her to have it removed). The house is occupied by tenants who have not used the oil fired boiler for an unknown period (every question I asked the tenant, she refused to answer) but instead have portable electric heaters. During my inspection, the boiler could not be fired for lack of oil. Since the tank is empty, is it possible condensation is present and it could accelerate the deterioration of the tank? The tank was tested in October, but now she's asking if it should be re-tested.

Brad What's there to sleep on? Changing the report to something that would pass the lender would be considered an act of fraud.

John, The switches near the front door and the lights and receptacles in one of the bedrooms all were dead. I'm thinking that was the circuit that went bad and they just disconnected it (tenants present). There were other problems with electric so I did call everything out and said while the electrician is on site, have him review the panel to determine if replacement is warranted.

Jim, I just took a close up of the scorched area; here's the whole panel. It's got other problems too; an open KO on the left side and double tapping on the right side. Click to Enlarge 67.27 KB

How big of a problem is this? Click to Enlarge 58.64 KB

I tell my clients something along these lines: Discharge from upper sections of gutters should run into the lower gutters via downspout extensions or terminate directly to the ground rather than discharging onto the roofing materials.

Sure; if you want, I can send you the original.