Darren

Marc; I agree; I was writing about a natural draft WH and thinking about a direct vent system. See that above attached NJ IRC sections.

Reuben; Check out the 2009 IRC. At least the NJ version just about eliminates Chapter 17. Check out 2406; you are right about the direct venting. Download Attachment: Chapter 17_Combustion Air.pdf 47.03 KB Download Attachment: Chapter 24_Fuel Gas.pdf 676.02 KB

From the 2009 NJ IRC- M2005.2- Fuel-fired water heaters shall not be installed in a room used as a storage closet. Water heaters located in a bedroom or bathroom shall be installed in a sealed enclosure so that combustion air will not be taken from the living space. Installation of a direct-vent water heater with in an enclosure is not required. G2406.2- (Exception 5) This basically states a direct vent appliance installed in a bedroom closet needs a solid, weather-stripped door with a self closer and all combustion air must be obtained from the outside..

Unless someone has paperwork stating the block has been properly tested, I would call out the improper clearance to framing members.

At the seminar presented by Frank Hendron, he stated over the past several years he has done destructive investigation on homes here on the east coast for people willing to participate in his survey; out of 900 homes, 898 were incorrectly installed. Here's the house near me- Click to Enlarge 69.95 KB Click to Enlarge 63.28 KB Click to Enlarge 48.99 KB Click to Enlarge 57.46 KB Click to Enlarge 55.4 KB Click to Enlarge 46.25 KB Click to Enlarge 64.28 KB Click to Enlarge 54.62 KB

I think figure 5 on page 14 is the most critical. If you don't let the moisture out at the base of the framed wall, then your just asking for trouble. I have a new house going up about a 1/2 mile from my house; talk about somebody not knowing what to do. I'll shoot by today and take some pictures.

Ahhh, But you can always say "it failed under testing and I may have saved your house from burning down." Let's say your client does buy this 'bi-level' house and you recommended they replace the FPE that you didn't remove the cover from. Douglas comes in to replace the panel and tells Mr. buyer; hey guy, I can replace the panel for $1,200, but it'll cost you another $5,000 to replace all the aluminum wiring in the house that 'your home inspector should of told you about'. NJ SOP states a HI shall inspect...including interior components of main panel and sub panels. I would say I've inspected over a hundred FPE and only once did a breaker fall out. I put it back in, told everyone on site (including the owner) what happened and to have an electrician come out and check the panel. Douglas, What you're saying has to be blamed on the 'on-site' work of homeowners and electricians, and would be pointed out by any HI on any panel- it's not that the PushMatic panel is 'Defective'.

How does 'inspector lore' begin? I attended a seminar today; 2 hours was dedicated to electrical. Here's one PowerPoint frame:- Defected panels Federal Pacific Equipment 'Stab Lock' (their spelling) Zinsco PushMatic Failure of overload devices to trip, age of design or improper materials used. They provided documentation (photos) of the bad Zinsco & FPE but nothing on a PushMatic. Another statement he made to the class was DO NOT remove the cover of a FPE. There were about 100 inspectors there; it easy to see where inspectors go wrong.

http://www.airvent.com/homeowner/produc ... edge.shtml

Yeah but, the piping in the house (and probably the underground too) was already installed. That interior piping had to be completed prior to a framing inspection. Blame the super or the builder for lack of coordination.

I just attended a seminar on 'Stucco Applications' present by Frank Hendron Building Science Consultant & Co-Chairman of ASTM C-1063 (this standard is written into the code R703.6) He stated the application of stone veneer is to be treated as stucco. One of the mock-ups he had included exactly what Jim's photo shows with one exception. R703.6.3 state 2 layers of water resistive barrier is required. His mock-up showed Tyvek against the sheathing and then Grade D building paper is which the mesh & plaster 'adhere' (if no mesh were present). He called the building paper sacrificial since it gets damaged during the plaster process. Here is the most important detail most everyone misses. The drainage plane needs flashing at the sill plate that rests on the foundation wall. R703.7.5 Flashing- Flashing shall be located beneath the first course of masonry above the finish ground level above the foundation wall or slab and at other points of support, including structural floors, shelf angles and lintels when masonry veneers are designed in accordance with section 703.7. ASTM C-1063 7.11.5 Foundation weep screed shall be installed at the bottom of all steel and wood framed walls to receive lath and plaster. Screed shall be not less than 4inches above raw earth and 2 inches above paved surfaces (roof is considered a paved surface) The weather resistive barrier and the lath shall entirely cover the vertical attachment flange and terminates at the top edge of the nose or ground flange.

Marc: This may help you out. Download Attachment: b_90_3.pdf 29.85 KB

Slate can't be used in the hearth can it? Click to Enlarge 68.39 KB

Could this be the result of a loose connection? Click to Enlarge 54.14 KB

That's it!! Thank you Jerry

I got vapor lock; what do we call this leaning tower? Click to Enlarge 52.2 KB

Call'em up. (413) 564-5515

Because some HI's will find any excuse NOT to enter an attic. One excuse I've read in a report is the HI won't enter an un-floored attic.

Robert, Is that termite mud on the beam in the left side of the picture?

Not to pile on here but it looks like you have other problems too. The B vents do not look to have proper clearance to combustibles (at the 2xs and at the top OSB) and the stains on the exterior of the B vent usually indicate a venting problem. Before doing anything, call your HI back and let him look at the situation.

If that was from water pressure, I'd expect to see it about a foot to 18 inches lower on the wall.

Phillip; Did somebody forget to tool those joints?

John NFPA 31 Chapter 10 has all the reduction requirements. Careful; it'll baffle your mind...

Hummm, I don't know about that. Kurt, in his uncanny way, was applying a small amount of force for years; yet last year many on the upper throne (including our your past president) more or less told him to pound salt. That's one of several reasons I chose not to re-up.