Tom Raymond

Yes it does. Can the underslab area be vented without sealing the slab to wall joint? The basement was 2/3 to 3/4 finished.

Does anyone have a ballpark figure for installing a mitigation system in a 1991 house with a mostly finished basement in WNY? 48 hour average was 4.3 pCi/L. I advised a minimum 90 day Alpha Track but my client is now asking about mitigation. Any recommendations are greatly appreciated.

I was suggesting that you needed the TOC, the SOP mandatory info and your summary, in that order and that the rest of the report was unnecessary.

John, I actually like the summary format. A comment followed by a picture. It's nice and clean. I suggest that you preface it with a TOC and a page or two of the missing SOP stuff, then axe the rest. Marc, Forget about the columns, they're no fun to scroll through in a PDF on a screen oriented opposite the document. I have one client that I print reports for, she has purchased 2 homes in the last two years and has an offer in on another but doesn't have a reliable internet connection or email. I presume the rest are reading their reports on a screen, maybe even on their phone. Why is the water pressure in the 'conditions' section when it is clearly a plumbing item? There were a couple other oddly placed items but that's the one that stands out. I think you could benefit from your own advice, your tone is often far from conversational. That's not a dig, just an observation.

It's remodeler jargon for a kitchen sink.

They still make a couple M series boilers but I couldn't find any MM series info. This company history narrows it down a little (emphasis mine):

Those things should require a license.

That's the shit they need to teach in CE classes.

Cardinal manufactures glass and fabricates insulated glass units. They don't make windows. Clad windows are always worse than they look.

I wish target fixation was my...Squirrel!

I was talking about this gig, not the boats.

Not any more. I became a home inspector to support my boat building habit. Boy, what was I thinking. That looks like a Crestline-Vetter-Norandex or similar builder grade window. If it's still in production a replacement sash will be only a few bucks more than an Abatron kit, and way less than anything from West.

Window washer pegs. Click to Enlarge 173.06 KB

I'm with Lamb. I'd want to see it fire up and shut down using the t stat. Yes it works or no it doesn't. Does it make heat? That you can't tell in 110 degrees.

Around 100 pics and climbing. I think of about a dozen things I wish I had shot when I'm about half way home. Around a third end up in the reports now, but that number is climbing too. I still record data plates with pen and paper. If they are barely legible in person I won't be able to make out anything in a pic. The only plates I rely on the camera for are horizontal or inverted down draft mid efficiency furnaces. It usually takes me three attempts to contort into a position where I can reach it, and 3 or 4 shots to get the damned thing in focus.

In today's world that would make him the tool.

Shorter tail pieces will fix the trap height. Changing the basin to a bowl and half will accommodate a disposer. Your client needs to go to a big orange or blue box, buy a plumbing book and get to know the guy in the plumbing isle. It'll take several trips, but she'll have it fixed correctly long before she spends $300. If there still is a local hardware, even better.

How much for a matted copy?

Those two components are rarely spec'd at the same time, let alone by the same person. I'd wager that they didn't know what cooktop they were going to get until the granite fabricator asked. By then the plumbing was long since roughed in.

Count the soffit panels, 2' tops. I have seen at least three instances where the utilities repair has been to install line hose. Click to Enlarge 10.28 KB

I like that last pic John. It looks like one of Lamb's compositions.

Where the heck do Amish farmers get motor oil from? Walmart. Seriously.

I recently spray foamed a cabin that was built by Amish farmers and hauled into place by a team of horses. The preservative on the hemlock board and batten siding was motor oil. What's worse, toluene or icynene?

The OP has a molded shingle siding made mostly of polypropylene. The panels are too thick to take apart that way. Check out the CertainTeed Cedar Impressions instructions http://www.certainteed.com/products/vin ... ing/310282.

Operating means that it opens and closes. The sash is the frame around the glass. Look at this pic. Click to Enlarge 57.01 KB The bottom member of the sash is bowed and is hitting the frame. The gap around it should be uniform. I assume it's rotten because that is typically the cause of the deformation. I have seen windows that look nearly perfect inside and have rotted so bad the metal cladding falls off. That is a loose piece of J channel. It's job is to cover the cut edges of the siding. The gap you see in the siding is necessary for expansion and contraction. Water is getting behind the siding there. It could be contributing to the damage, or not. What do you mean by this? To fix this is this something I should contact Pella about and have them replace it or can a local handyman take care of it? Call the local Pella dealer and have them look at it. They'll tell you what parts you need, assess whether the frame is leaking or not, and probably be able to recommend a handy man to fix the paint and plaster. I don't see anything that would make me want to tear open walls looking for mushrooms. It isn't that bad. No problem, just tell me where to send the bill[]