Scottpat

Slow drainage and clogs.

I have seen it use a few times and every single time it looked pretty good. If I recall it is something like 100% silicone so it is basically a waterproof sealant. The last time I found it on a building the roof was old but it had been on the roof for about 6 years and it was doing its job. I think it has some unreal warranty like 40 years or something like that.

You just cant make this stuff up... They are so proud that they had diverter flashing added to their home. Nobody has ever said a word about how the roof to wall flashing is installed! Not the folks that put in the diverter flashing or the home inspector that did the inspection last week! So now I come in for the EIFS inspection and everyone is surprised that I'm being so picky! Click to Enlarge 48.53 KB Click to Enlarge 54.23 KB

That's sexy! I have seen similar details before like that and its about the only way to install a window in my opinion?.

Well, Marvin said they have no details on installing their windows in EIFS! Pretty darn simple......

They are on the list to call tomorrow.

The original windows were cutout. The replacement windows (Marvin) were then placed in the openings and sealed just with backer rod and sealant. I'm just trying to find any details that show this being done. I don't have anything that shows a replacement window install in EIFS or how it could even be done. I do have details that show the EIFS being cut away and the old window being removed and new windows(not replacement type) with nailing fins being installed and then the EIFS being replaced and properly sealed. This is the proper way to replaces windows in EIFS. But, this is not what was done on the home I'm consulting on. [] The kicker is that the manufacturer does not warranty any window installed in EIFS...

I'm looking for a JPG that shows a vinyl replacement window installed in a wall that is clad in EIFS. Or even better would be the JPG and the proper requirements. Thanks?...

My guess is rainwater as well. It is coming from the lack of gutters and most likely hydrostatic pressure. As the water percolates down through the soil and the underlying soil becomes saturated it starts searching for a way to keep moving. if you have a home with a crawlspace that is basically at or below the surrounding grade it will move towards that crawlspace. The soil in the crawlspace is relatively dry and then once it hits that area in the crawl it is basically forced up by under pressure and into the crawlspaces. I have seen water in crawls when the only visible water is 200 yards away in a field that also doubles as a retention pond. Once that field/pond filled up a few inches the outlying homes would have water in their crawlspaces in about 2-3 days and the field/pond would be empty but the ground still saturated.

Do you see water standing anywhere in the yard or neighbors yard? Does water flow away from the home? You need rain gutters! If they were removed before you bought the home and the home was dry when you bought the home chances are that the lack of rain gutters is playing a big part in this?...

Yep, that one will make the nightly news pretty soon!

Leighton, as everyone so far has noted, it is required in the majority of the States if you are working under a license. It needs to be on your advertising. Some even require an address to be listed. A license number is public knowledge in the States, I don't know about Canada but I would assume it is the same.

No, it was not vented?.. The buyer was able to get the mess corrected.

Christian, any comments on all of the suggestions that have been made so far? I just looked at your site, and apparently you have listened to some of the comments and made changes to your site?. I see you turned off the "auto play" on the video and that you added that you speak Spanish to the site?. All good changes..

I had an office condo a few weeks ago. All units had smart meters on a wall and then all of the main disconnect breakers were in a mechanical room closet?.

I'm viewing it on a Mac and I can not see the left side of the screen with the section that I think says, "Home Inspections Tampa". Fix it so it works on all browsers. I had to scroll to the side to see your entire phone number?. Did you check to make sure it is Mobile friendly? I don't like the pop-up video! I click off sites when things like this pop up. Get rid of it or make it where it is not an auto pop-up. Sell yourself and not all of that Free Stuff that you load onto the inspection. It looks like you are begging for anyone by offering all the freebies. Jim, gave you a ton of good advice. Yes, get rid of the price match guarantee! You have priced your self into the bargain basement?.. Add a 1 in front of all of those fees! Tampa is not an inexpensive market and you need to raise those fees? Make you contact phone number larger!

So both homes have their own foundation and their own exterior walls, correct? The walls are a few inches apart? How did they put the stucco on when the walls are only a few inches apart? Or are we looking at the only area where the walls are close together? My opinion is that it would have been better to have not joined the two structures because they have independent foundations and walls. They will always move (expansion and contraction) at different rates. If they wanted to close the gaps they should have used metal flashing and metal parapet wall caps, not fiberglass. With that roofline coming down into that wall it is going to be an ongoing problem. You can see how the water flows with the staining on the sealant. It's a hot mess, as we say in the South!

It can be done but it is all in the details. Schluter has some of what I think are the best product for waterproofing and drainage systems for balconies and roof top decks. Take a look at their site. Also be careful with what you put on the surface, ceramic/porcelain tile does not do well in areas that freeze pretty good. http://www.schluter.com/142.aspx

Uhh, That's The Idea! Dead as a doornail!

Thank you all! Boilers are just no longer used in our area. At one time that was all of the homes had in the older parts of Nashville. I still find forgotten UST's or leakers above ground in basements once to twice a year.

You need to get some Carpenter Bee traps! The work pretty darn good? http://www.hgtvgardens.com/pests/the-bu ... enter-bees

From what I could tell it was copper. What kind of average life does a boiler like this have?

I need some help from our Northern brethren! I'm trying to identify this boiler, I might see one or two every other year and I had two this week! The name on it is HESco Industries. I have found that they are/were a distributor for many brands of boilers. I could not find any data plates or anything that would identify this thing? I'm pretty sure everything in on the backside which you can't access. It is for forced hot water heat for 12 apartments with cast iron radiators. If anyone can provide the brand, approx. age based on the design, etc. that will be more than I have or know. Click to Enlarge 58.63 KB Click to Enlarge 54.79 KB Click to Enlarge 63.45 KB

Only the water closet(room with the toilet) needs a vent fan. The logic as I understand is that water is always in the toilet and the humidity will always be higher.. so much for logic! Keep in mind that the IRC is the minimum requirement. When I find this type of setup, I always recommend installing a vent as an upgrade in the main part of the bathroom to help control humidity when the shower or tub are in use.

I would just say that I'm unable to read the age on the data plate but that the owner indicated it was 16 years of age, which I would agree with if not more. Based on that the system is past its expected life and any further life is just good fortune! Solved that problem!