Terence McCann

Over the hill is better than under it eh Chad? Happy B-day OM.

Any guess Les? I've never seen actual Perlite so I can't say for sure.

Aye, that's it (did a Google search and found some pics). Good, bad, health hazard? Thanks Bill.

It's looks like the tips of cotton Q-tips but when you touch them they turn into a white, chalk like, powder. Thanks. Click to View 50.9 KB

How's IW going Charlie? Would have liked to gone but it wasn't in the cards for this year ($$$). Is Douglas Hansen there?

Well Charlie, from that description it sounds like an older style furnace with the bi-metal style fan control - much like what Jim was describing. I was hoping find an installation manual, to look at the electrical schematic and see what the fan control was, no luck. This web site had the manual but when I clicked on it the link came up broken. I did see this picture Click to View 46.73 KB and there is some kind of limit mounted to the blower housing - not sure what it is - over temp limit? I also ran across this part which is an integrated fan control but unfortunately no picture. Without an electrical schematic I'm out of bullets.

From the original post Charlie said the home is 2 years old. If it's truly the indoor blower motor then it's either the motor, the wiring going to the motor or a bad circuit board. I'm leaning toward the induced draft motor/flame proof/differential pressure switch for draft motor proof.

Hire a trained professional from a local HVAC company. There are correct ways (and incorrect ways) to adjust combustion air. It involves the use of specialized tools and the knowledge that an experienced service technician brings with him. While he is there you should have him complete a maintenance clean and check on the unit as well. It sounds like it needs it.

Not true. The indoor blower motor is controlled by a time delay relay. After flame proof the indoor blower starts around 30 seconds or so after. When the call for heat is terminated it take about 2 minutes for the indoor blower to shut down. It is not controlled thermostatically.

The first problem is that it's a Goodman - what junk. Is she sure it's the main blower motor and not the induced draft motor? I have a Goodman furnace in my condo. When it decides it doesn't like the flame rod any more the main blower stays on but the burners and induced draft fan cycles. It's very audible and to an untrained ear would seem like the "blower" is going off and on.

I'm not sure Les but I think that was a zinger...

Just because the elements ohmed out does not mean there isn't a circuit problem. Could be a safety limit too. I've always liked to amp first when trouble shooting problems like these but that's just personal preference. If they don't amp out correctly use a volt meter to find the open circuit. If they amp out correctly then look for what the others have said.

Did you put an amp probe on the elements Brian?

ES This is a home inspector forum. You don't really know any of the folks here. We talk about issues concerning home inspections. Are you sure this is the right media to be airing your family problems? Perhaps a family counselor, parish priest or social service would be better? I wish you the best.

That's a good one Cary. Typically you don't offset a pedistal sink like that [:-bigeyes What in the world are they thinking??

Condensation is forming on the rain cap and dripping down then freezing. The 4 corners are the low point with the middle of the cap being the highest. Flue gas is moist. A slightly acidic Popsicle.

Interesting flashlight Bill. How often do you use the halogen part of it?

I'm not sure I could give an estimate regarding the life of the bulb. One minute they work and the next time you turn it on it's dead. I do carry 4-5 spare bulbs in the van however. Expensive little buggers.

A lot of collection spiders comb this web site. I'm waiting for "Boris the spider" to show up.

I had mine 3 years and it was still OK. I replaced it though, didn't want any surprises. I carry a backup Maglight just in case.

I love that word -use it all the time.

I’ve found and uploaded the installation manual for a York High Efficiency furnace. You can search the files library for this file (as soon as it is approved). In reading the documentation I’ve found these areas that deal with insulating combustion air and venting/exhaust piping. When combustion air pipe is installed above a suspended ceiling or when it passes through a warm and humid space, the pipe must be insulated with 1/2â€

It all has to deal with dew point and temperatures. A can of soda may sweat when taken out of a refrigerator in a ambient of 75 F and 70 % RH, as in the summer, but if you take the same can of soda out of the refrigerator in a 75F ambient with 5% RH, as in the winter, it won't sweat. The surrounding air drinks the moisture.

yes -40c. On Sunday it was -53c with the wind chill. Seriously. The condensation is the basement inside air condensing on the cold intake pipe for about the first ten feet or so. Soon I suppose there will be no friggin water in the air at all! One other thought. If the air intake for the furnace is close to the laundry dryer vent this could be exacerbating the situation. The fresh air intake of the furnace is pulling in warm moist air from the dryer.

I thought you only had to insulate it if the flue was in an unconditioned area, and especially an attic? That's me thinking everyone has a basement.