Terence McCann

Les, wasn't it a halide torch and salt water sprayed into the heat exchanger while the furnace was running? God, it's been so long ago.... I'm feeling rather old. Out of all the things I've lost I miss my mind the most.

One point to make is that with this type of furnace the heat exchanger is not to difficult to check. The burners can be removed easily and they make long, skinny, mirrors that can be inserted in the burner chamber. Shine a flashlight on the mirror and you can get a pretty good view of the inside of the heat exchanger. The whole process doesn't take more than 10 minutes or so.

You can always play the role of GC, using your past contacts to get a foot hold in the field and punting if further work needs to be done. Form an alliance with a few key plumbing contractors and always include the "me too clause" in the pricing. This type of thing is second nature for those that have been in the contracting business.

I'd start with the manufacture of the cams Randy. They should be able to help with regards to training (small hitch, you have to buy their equipment).

The plumbing vent looks like it is too close to the dormer (window) as well.

Very simple really - As you can see from the photo(s) the flu pipe is rusting out and is ready to fall over. Call a licensed heating repair contractor to replace. While the contractor is at the job site please have them clean and check the boiler. Thank you and Happy New Year.

Mike, are you sure it's 1993 or is it 1983? Btw, that picture is a hoot.

Keeping with the tool thread: I just purchased the B&D battery operated sawzall. So far I've cut a 36"x15" access hole in our ceiling, to gain access to the attic, 2 holes in my office wall to run RG213 coax and a single hole in our furnace room to route power wiring for the emergency generator. The little sawzall does a great job however my wife doesn't share the same view.

Sounds like the system was working ok. The problem is that the home was stone cold to begin with. It takes a while for forced hot air, via a hot water coil, to heat a home that is at 55 degrees. Also, you don't get a huge delta T from a hot water coil with 55º supply water. When you started the dishwasher it really put it behind the 8 ball. If you took down some additional information like air handler cfm, piping size to hot water coil, dimensions and number of passes of the hot water coil and circ pump gpm you could give the manufacturer a call and explain the situation. They may be able to give you a design opinion.

Builders that could care less about quality and incompetent workers that have never been through an apprenticeship program.

I hear ya Les. I'm forever pointing out safety issues, drives my wife nuts.

She doesn't want to pull my finger.

Ah, ok. Make sure none of the carpet crawlers can stick their digits in the belts and pulleys. I know, I can't help it, annoys my wife too.

I give, what in the heck is it?

Yes, they can be replaced. If you've never worked on components that are electrically powered I would recommend hiring someone to replace it for you. A water leak will ruin your day, an electrical shock can ruin your life. Side note: If this fan is located in a bathroom where people shower the exhaust should be run outdoors.

From their web site: Power Supply: Transformer converts 120 VAC to 12 VDC. Optional 220 VAC power supply available. Sensitivity: 2.5 counts per hour per picocurie per liter. Measurement Range: 0.1 to 999 picocuries/liter (pCi/l). Operating Range: 45 degrees F to 95 degrees F. Detector: Diffused-junction photodiode. Accuracy: ±25% or 1 pCi/l, whichever is greater after 24 hours. Measurement Intervals: 1 hour. Data Port: RS-232 9 pin D connector allows printer data to be sent to PC. Battery Backup: One 9 V alakaline battery supplies 24 hour operation. LED indicated low battery. Tilt Switch: Disturbance Detector. Weight: 2 lbs. Size: 8" * 4.7" * 2.5" Display: 3 digit LED display Displayed Values: Long-term average- Accumulates until device is reset. Short-term average- rolling 12 hour average Key Lock: Inhibits tampering with the device. EPA Evaluation: US EPA accepted.id="blue"> It's this part that is troublesome: Accuracy: ±25% or 1 pCi/l, whichever is greater after 24 hours. After 4 hours the monitors should have adjusted to their new environment. I have two of these and used them for years however a 25%+- dead-band is not what I would call precision measurement. I send them in yearly for calibration, do a semi-annual cross check and I do a QA/QC check every 10 tests and the biggest difference I get between the two is a .1 pCi/L. Even though the test may come back at 3.5 I still advise the client to do a long term test once their in the house.

The 1027s are headache free however their accuracy leaves a little to be desired.

Sad story. That's got to be one of the worst ways to go. They couldn't determine where the fire started? I thought that investigators could pretty much pinpoint the area where the fires start. Thanks nonetheless Kyle.

Thanks for the update Kyle.

A lot of the newer condos here do not have a demising wall. A while back I called the building department, of one municipality, and they said that as long as the ceiling is 5/8 drywall there is no need for a demised wall. With out a demising wall I could pop up into the attic, walk over to the neighbors condo and drop in for a spot of tea. Imagine their surprise. With regards to the hole in the picture, IMO it's a molehill. I'd mention it but typically there are bigger fish to fry.

Nationwide and State Farm may not insure a home that has K&T (not without a few strings attached anyway). I've heard that they will insure the home as long as it doesn't have more than X amount of K&T, as long as the client agrees to replace it in a years time, after inspection by an electrician yada, yada yada. In my report I tell the client to make sure they can get insurance before signing on the bottom line. Also, if memory serves, we had a pretty good discussion about K&T years back. May want to search K&T here for more information.

Is there a pipe sticking out of each of those? I wouldn't think it's for water, not with foot traffic below.

Very nice Kurt. As far as the pipe goes - perhaps an old gas lit lamp at one time?

This isn't the only problem though correct? There is also the problem of the breakers not tripping on an over amped condition and if I understand correctly, it's only to 220v double pole that has this problem oui?

As seen in the real estate ad: Been looking to escape the hustle and bustle of city life? Well, do we have a rustic country charmer for you! Sturdy stone construction is sure to last a millennium. This home has a nice airy feeling to it and is in near move in condition, just waiting for your special touches. Some repairs might be needed, home will be sold as is.