Steven Hockstein

I guess after the first few misses it didn't really matter.

I was not sure if I should post this in the HVAC or plumbing section. The good news is that they did not have to make an extra hole in the roof for the exhaust fan termination.

Typically the manufacturer's published installation requirement/specifications "Trump" the code requirements. I advise my clients to follow the specifications.

Maybe it is a NJ thing. This "trap" is about 5 feet deep.

An HVAC contractor told me that a lint trap is required by code in this dryer vent and he installed this in a laundry room. The vent is suppose to be ducted up through the ceiling but if you look carefully you can see that the bottom is also open and there is a trap door planned below. This is a new one to me. There is no requirement in the dryer installation manual and I told the contractor to follow the manufacturer's requirements. It seems to me that this would cause problems with the air flow. Anyone want to comment?

When my clients ask about tankless heaters I remind them that no electric=no hot water. During Super Storm Sandy a lot of people in my area were glad that they had hot water when there was no electric for days at a time. They could at least take a hot shower. When you compare the additional cost of the tankless heater (the unit and installation) to swapping out a typical heater, I wonder how much money, if any, is saved. Of course if the chimney needs work the comparison will be very different.

What style Type Ball do you use in your IBM Selectric?

My dad was building homes in the late 60's and early 70's. He told me that there was a time that there was a shortage of copper wiring and his electrician informed him that the copper was approved for residential use but was not allowed in his commercial jobs. Due to the limited amount of wiring the electrician used aluminum in the homes. The electrician charged the same price and my dad did not care as long as the wiring was code approved and he could sell the house. He also gave the buyers a choice of hardwood flooring or carpeting in the bedrooms because the cost to him was almost the same.

I have noted that arc fault breakers are installed in new panels but I do not test them because I am concerned that I could cause damage if I disconnect something that should not lose power. How are others handling this?

It is a good example of when people apply decorative building elements without any consideration of how the faux parts/materials would be used if they were the real thing. One of the most common examples of this is when I see faux stone or bricks installed on cantilevers. It looks ridiculous to me.

It would be interesting to see the installation instructions (not that most people read them).

I see mostly CMU foundations around here. One of the structural engineers we work with expressed concerns about the fact that the straps are glued to the surfaces of the blocks and if the connection fails, the straps are not effective. He compared the straps to an egg, strong until there is a small failure and then... It will be interesting to see how these systems stand the test of time.

I don't t remember every literally telling a client not to buy the house but I have told them that if it was me, I would not buy the house unless I was willing to do a tremendous amount of work and if the cost and effort was worth the end result.

There are special instructions for Shingles when slopes are between 2-4 on 12. Under 2:12 requires a different system. For example: http://www.gaf.com/Warranties_Technical_Documents/Steep_Slope_Guides_Application_Instructions/Shingle_Application_Instructions/Timberline_Series_Application_Instructions_English_Spanish_French.pdf As an aside, it is amazing how often I see building products installed improperly ( i.e. windows, shingles, etc...) while the installation instructions are scattered all over the worksite, written in multiple languages. There should be instructions about how to read instructions.

Since the agent is such an expert just suggest that the real estate agent provide the specifications for the plywood and the UL rating of the ceiling assembly. Alternately you could ask for her to provide written documentation from the local inspector that the installation was approved. I suspect neither will be forthcoming. You are right to question it, that is your job.

Not sure how to add something to the calendar but NJ ALPHI (New Jersey Association of Licensed Professional Home Inspectors) is offering a seminar on June 6, 2017. There are 6 CEU's submitted for approval. The seminar is titled "Oil Heating Appliance Seminar for Home Inspectors". The presenter is Ralph Adams of the Fuel Merchants Association of NJ. There will also be additional sponsor tables and door prices. Here is a Link to the Registration Application: http://njalphi.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/june2017seminarapp.pdf

I have mixed feelings about requiring that the seller has access to the report. I don't provide it to the seller but I suspect that many see my report. The one issue that will be addressed is when a deal falls through because of home inspection issues, the seller cannot just put the house back on the market without disclosing the issues and hope the next buyer does not discover the problem or even worse, the seller conceals the problem. In NJ there are disclosure requirements and the previous home inspection report will document the seller's knowledge. On the other hand it would concern me that it could be construed that the seller has a relationship with the home inspector, via the regulations, and it may reduce the legal separation between them (and aid in the ability for the seller to sue a home inspector).

same here. I have never seen a system using the leader pipes for the radon system.

I have seen some people install high-low returns. There are returns at the ceiling that are opened for the summer central air conditioning season and low returns that are closed. They are reversed during the heating season. The logic seems reasonable. Never studied the results.

I think you are on the right path to consult with the manufacturer's rep. Even if there is some type of generic recommendation, the manufacturer's published specifications will apply.

In NJ, the building code defines habitable space, the local Land Use Ordinances have a way to define the size of a building, the real estate industry has their way of advertising the size of the building, the builders have another way that they like to define the square footage, and then the landlords use another system. Yikes.

James Hardie requires a 2" gap but I rarely see it because it looks bad.

I hate when that happens.

Have them lug your ladder and stuff. Check with your insurance company to make sure you don't have issues.

I don't know how the local code officials get their education in your state but in NJ some of the county colleges offer the courses for code enforcement officials.