Brian G

Originally posted by jodil .....to the gas hot water heater........ Jodi, that's a common term in my region as well, but as professional HI I suggest re-training yourself to say it without the redundant "hot" part. I did (after a while). [:-taped] Brian G. It's the Little Things Too []

Since I've already cast myself as the devil's advocate on this, I'll see if I can reasonably stay with it. Originally posted by hausdok That's because it's a self-serving myth created by someone without any basis in fact. Likely correct, but not yet proven. It could also be that I just haven't found it. If Brandon heard the same thing I read about older hardwood floors, at least that part should be discussed somewhere (even if only to debunk it). Let's just assume that moisture in the crawlspace caused the wood to expand. Well if the framing expands with all that weight on it it's going to want to sag downward. Not necessarily. If the wood in a frame expands enough, it's going to create pressure; pressure that wants the wood to give. If it can only do that by bending, it will, but unless there's an awful lot of weight on top it'll bend whichever way the grain wants it to bend. Most smart carpenters, like many used to be, turn the crown up (the natural, grain-determined bow in a board). I think all that's unlikely though, unless the framing was bone-dry when nailed together and exposed to very high moisture levels later. As Brandon notes, wood expands much more across the grain than up and down it. Problems caused by that shrinkage is much easier to imagine (like gaps between the boards of a hardwood floor). I can't think of one bad thing that could happen to joists as a result of removing moisture from a crawl but I can think of lots of bad things that can happen by adding moisture to a crawl. There's no question which way is the safer bet. I won't even try that one. I will say I'm not convinced that anything less than a 100% coverage vapor barrier is "inadequate" for an older house. A 1" gap around the perimeter is a big deal? Really? It may turn out to be silly and unfounded, but a horror it isn't. That expert with the National Park Service was speaking specifically about historic properties and the preservation field when she said... Yet, knowledgeable experts in the field differ regarding the appropriateness of vapor barriers.... After reading her article I'm willing to give her more credit than me, you, or the termite guy on this subject. So for me, in those kinds of cases, it isn't cut and dried at this point. Brian G. Waiting For More Facts [:-tophat]

Well, at least one respectable fellow who's well-familiar with old houses recommends a complete vapor barrier... http://www.oldhouseweb.com/stories/Detailed/15125.shtml "These soil coverings need to be properly installed to be effective. The seams should overlap at least a foot and be sealed with appropriate tape. It needs to completely cover the soil and be sealed to the foundation." Of course, that article is about controlling moisture in crawl spaces. If he has any comments specific to possible resulting wood shrinkage, I'm sure we'll hear about soon enough. I've run a bunch of searches, and I can't find a single dang article or brief that says anything about wood shrinkage after a vapor barrier is installed; framing or flooring, true, false, or otherwise; nothing. Brian G. Done For Now [:-crazy]

Originally posted by hausdok The knowledgeable experts in the fields that most of these articles refer to are builders. I don't think that's true of this particular article. The lady who wrote it writes presevation briefs for the National Park Service (the Heritage Preservation Services Program). I'm pretty sure she didn't consult builders for her article in The Old House Journal. If you check out Dr. Joe's site and the US Government laboratory programs, you'll find that they pretty much agree on how buildings behave and where vapor barriers should be installed. But isn't all that really aimed at new construction, much moreso than retrofitting long-existing construction? Does any of that discuss the possibly detrimental effects of a complete, relatively-tight vapor barrier installed many years after construction? I'm not saying I'm ready to buy the theory the guy is trying to sell Tim, I'll even agree it's more likely he's just squirming, but we don't really know that from anything turned up so far. Brian G. Still Seeking the Bullseye [:-magnify

I'm still surfing around for something dead on point, but I ran across this article at the The Old House Journal.com http://www.oldhousejournal.com/npsbriefs2/brief39.shtml In the third paragraph under Vapor Diffusion it says: "In some instances, using vapor barriers, such as heavy plastic sheeting laid over damp crawl spaces, can have remarkable success in stopping vapor diffusion from damp ground into buildings. Yet, knowledgeable experts in the field differ regarding the appropriateness of vapor barriers and when and where to use them, as well as the best way to handle natural diffusion in insulated walls." If "knowledgeable experts in the field differ", a hard & firm answer may not be out there. Brian G. The No Answer Answer [8]

I read in an article somewhere, and I really want to say it was either in The Old House Journal or Preservation, that if you're dealing with a historic property and hardwood floors you should not cover all the ground. The flooring dries to a point never before experienced and shrinks enough to open all kinds of cracks and gaps in the flooring. I don't recall a thing about the framing, but if you buy the first premise the second isn't much of a leap. I've been telling folks in that situation to talk to someone with lots of experience in that arena before going ahead on the vapor barrier. I hope I'm not promoting folklore. Brian G. Les Made Me Do It [:-cyclops

Originally posted by Jack Ahern Good thing my New England skin is thick. Is it really thick Jack, or just deaden by Guinness consumption? [:-dev3] Brian G. Fire Water Good! [:-drunk]

Jeez...that's been a while. Brian G. Still True As It Ever Was [^]

They couldn't be bothered to tear out the railing and build normal stud walls?! Jeeeeeez. [:-yuck] Love that "service". [:-bigeyes Brian G. Le Maison de Crap [:-paperba

I can't believe they didn't arrange for easy swapping of batteries. That's been common in digital cameras for quite a while. Dumb. Brian G. For the Money You Would Think.... [:-dunce]

Originally posted by kurt In windsurfing, the first guy out is always referred to as the "wind dummy". In kayaking we called that guy the "probe", or in some cases "strainer bait". Brian G. All Part of the Fun [:-party] P.S. Love the dog photo [:-doggy]

I do it once in a long while, when circumstances warrant it. It certainly isn't something I would do routinely. Maybe it's a regional thing, but they call that a "meter key" down here. Brian G. To Each His Own [:-alien]

It helps to get lucky, but you can't force-generate that. When I went around looking for jobs one of the big brokers in town just got the shaft from another HI over a deal on his own house (the HI was selling). She wasn't happy with him at all, and there I was. She had more to do with my survival the first year and a half than anyone else, despite my the-client-is-the-only-client style. God bless her. These days I don't hear from her. That's life. Good luck Dave. It ain't gonna be easy. Brian G. Starting From Nothing Is Hard [:-crazy]

My guess would be T-111, but you can't really tell from that one photo. So Doug, was the stuff in 4 x 8 sheets or individual boards? Brian G. Guessin' Is Stressin' [:-magnify

Originally posted by hausdok Been there, done that. Celebrated 35 years sober on January 23rd. 18 Years on February 5th. Life is good. Who was that other person anyway? [] Brian G. He Was Fun, But Not Too Bright [:-party][:-dunce]

I've seen a couple of charts, but I put no faith in them. They typically have water heaters and HVAC appliances going out way faster than is normal around here. I keep it simple: young, mid-life, old, and worn out/shot/dead on it's last leg. That's all people really want to know. Sometimes I also use a phrase I think I pilfered from Lord Katen. "It's a lot closer to the end of its life than it is to the beginning." Brian G. Simple Is Good [^]

Originally posted by davidlord I wish I could go down to IR Mart/Depot/and hold both of them in my hand. They were both at IW in New Orleans, but I don't know of anyplace other than a big conference where you'd find both on display. Brian G. IR-Toys-R-Us? []

Originally posted by Jim Katen For instance yesterday I inspected a house with a 15-year old three-tab comp roof and a 15-year old heat pump. That's a great example. No one could seriously suggest we should ignore a roof that's clearly coming towards its end; a major home appliance is really no different. Brian G. Clients Need to Know [:-graduat

Originally posted by Erby ..... I still want to do what Brian want's to do, just not with him. Oh sure, you say that now, with all the guys watching. [] Brian G. Erby's Such a Brute [:-dev3]

A separate section, no, but I do note the relative age of the permanent major home appliances (no washers or dryers). It's not an exact science by any stretch, but age and condition tell you a lot after a while. Remaining life is required under ASHI standards; I'm not sure about other SOP's. Brian G. Today's Old Appliance Is Tomorrow's Major Expense [:-weepn]

Originally posted by Chris Bernhardt I've wondered about that too. I think 40 - 50 is a teenager in this biz. Suddenly I have the urge guzzle beer, break stuff, and have sex on the floor. [:-mohawk] Brian G. Not That I Ever Did Any of That [:-angel]

I'd say Erby and John are correct on the main location, not being able to tell without pulling the block, and on the sub panel requirements. I never pull those old fuse blocks. They can snap in two sometimes. Yeah I know, failed under testing, but not by my hand. You know it's a sub panel if it's fed from the service equipment, or another panel (you can have a sub from a sub I suppose). I think you can safely say that only the service equipment is not a sub in a given house (anybody know when that might not be the case?). You can have an exception if the second panel is located in a separate building, and it meets the requirements for the exception. The panel on the right is also a sub panel, but with no 110v circuits there are no neutrals to separate from the grounds. If it'll hold more breakers (it looks like this one will, but does it?), caution the clients that no 110v circuits can be added there without rewiring the panel. Brian G. Electrical Antiques Are Not "Charming" [:-thumbd]

It looks like the stuff they often use to line the men's room in fast food restaurants and convienience stores (used to be metal, now it's mostly fiberglass). It has that same texture. If it is that stuff, it's tough as hell. Brian G. "Say there Bob" Jack said as he stared curiously at the ceiling of the sunroom, "where have I seen that stuff before?" [:-slaphap

That's an "I joist". If you run a search here or on the internet you should find plenty about them. Brian G. You Joist, I Joist, We All Joist []

Nah, you were right. No offense taken. Brian G. We Also Call It Sh*trock []