Rocon

Hard to tell it could be one of any of the options above including air leakage. Being a production faculty there could be humid air leaking from the building into the wall cavities.

Here is an example of what worked OK but i would not recommend in your climate. You could use sketch 1 as a starting point. Click to Enlarge 50.5 KB

Kurt's sugestion is sound, it is most likely clean now. You could run a second wash with a strong sollution of vinegar to try to eliminate the staining.

Properly prepared the Acrodry S Base Coat would work over CMU. The main use of the S product is to adhere EPS foam to the CMU. It can also be used as a parge coat to smooth a CMU or Concrete surface. The Acrodry Base Coat is for EIFS installations, particularly over (bonded to) the XPS foam. Verify the product type before committing to an opinion. Contact BASF for an area rep to look at the installation. Your district sales manager is: Ken Butler P: 972-215-8525

The IRC does not apply you are in a multi-family unit that was most likely built under the CBC (California Building Code), and the CPC (California Plumbing Code). I know it was commonplace in multi-family units before 2004 (could still be) in the city of Los Angeles to allow this. I realize that LA is not your jurisdiction but generally, if it flies in LA then it flies in Pasadena. As far as hazards go if you are getting fumes from a condensate line there is a bigger problem somewhere since the condensate tray below the coils are in the conditioned air stream of your air handler. I do know the downside of this setup is that if there is a condensate ejector pump or a low spot in the condensation line you will hear gurgling when the condensate gets enough head pressure to discharge into the tailpiece.

Only addressing the finish it appears to be a sand float finish not a smooth finish.

XN View for windows works well. You might try the Mac version here: http://xnview.en.softonic.com/mac

Section 5.5 http://www.icc-es.org/reports/pdf_files ... R-1387.pdf

Was it on a W-deck? Is there a polyiso insulation layer below the membrane? Does the blistering only occur at the edges of the ponding water? How long does the water pond on the roof or when was your last rain? Typically one of two things is going on: 1. The coating was in direct sunlight when it was applied. This causes the surface to skin off early. The trapped volatiles work their way out of the material and cause the blistering. 2. There is water trapped in the roof assembly. This usually causes a larger blister so it is less likely to manifest like the photos you have.

Stephen, Is that corner of the tub on an outside wall? I have seen thermal anomalies similar to that where there was an air leak or thermal bridge. I use an inductive moisture meter on tile areas such as that. It is not as accurate as using the meter over wood however by checking several places on a tile surface you can detect elevated moisture. Of course, you must take into consideration wire mesh or hot mop shower pans as they give false elevated readings. Ramon

What about those growies in the second photo. I see alot of damage below planters on balconies. If the planters leak behind the siding..... Do you have an establishing shot of the side of the building?

Tom, You have a good idea that does fix the issue at hand. Given enough clearance it should work. As far as the box itself they are usually earlier than pre-wrapping (with GWB) can lights in fire rated floors.

You could drop one of these boxes over the can light from the attic. http://www.ezbarrier.net/one-hour-fire- ... sed-light/

In discussions with the roofers, you could mention that it is funny that "drip? is not typically used regarding snow. Therefore, why would the presence of snow relate to the drip edge flashing? WA clearly has rain, which is very ?drippy?. I have a 1980 ARMA manual requiring drip edge. Regards

Where is the edge metal?

R903.4.1 Overflow drains and scuppers applies to the roof deck. The curb needs overflow scuppers.

This is very interesting. Are they getting the search warrant based on temperature only? For example last year on a project in Florida I found several of the units (6% of the units observed) had no insulation in the attic. Meaning the insulation installers had overlooked the attics six years earlier at time of construction. Meaning the insulators has missed the particular. This condition is actually fairly common in multifamily construction. I have seen this in several cities. I am sure that a police officer with an IR camera who sees hot attics in the winter would assume that there were a lot of grow houses in these projects. What if they served a search warrant on one of those units? How would you like to have a police officer show up and do the search based on a heat signature?

I am alergic to coffee spurting through my nostrils. I wonder if it is the precursor to drowning?

Adhered stone veneer installations must be installed with proper flashings, certainly. However the flashing details are nothing like those used with brick veneer. It's completely different system. The terms "weeps" (meaning weep holes) and "through-wall flashings" are related to brick veneer installations. Stone veneer flashing details are nearly identical to stucco installation details. Jim, So we agree on most points. Yes they are different systems, and IMHO all systems must be installed with proper flashings, not just adhered stone veneer. My comments did not form a premise of whether the materials were natural stone or synthetic, since I was discussing both in general terms and discussing wood frame construction I believe my comments are correct. You are correct that through wall flashings are mainly found in brick veneer. They are also commonly used in multiple-wythe masonry walls and typically serve the same purpose as a weep screed in plaster. Each flashing allows water to escape from a system be it a cavity or a drainage plane. In fact through wall flashings are used in three coat cement based plaster systems regularly. It all depends on the transitions between materials and location. Based on the conditions any type of flashing might be appropriate or inappropriate.

If it is natural or synthetic, flashings and through wall flashings are always required if it is attached as a masonry veneer to wood frame. Grout is permiable and natural stone to a lesser degree will allow moisture to collect behind the system. Any cracks or gaps in the system will also allow water entry through the veneer. Reference materials: http://www.masonryveneer.org/pdf/Constr ... cifier.pdf http://www.masonryveneer.org/pdf/MVMAMa ... _HiRes.pdf

so I have to ask what the flashings look like. with such great work up top it must have been a jewel.

I have seen this several times in the past. usually there is a stain on the brick since grease is heavier than the air.

I see a lot of fiberglass units that are coated. They look good for a while but they require maintenance coats. I would say in general you can expect 25% to have some chipping or peeling within 5 years. Of course this can vary based on use. My wife owns a dog grooming shop. The shop has a fiberglass tub shower enclosure. It requires a fresh coat every two years.

In California we have the CBC California Building Code (AKA California Title 24 codes). It is based off the IBC which is then modified. The CBC usually is issued 1 year after the IBC is issued. In other words if the IBC is issued by ICC dated 2006 the CBC is issued dated 2007. I just checked my code adoption dates for several municipalities and none show the IRC (or a CBC equivalent) as a code they have adopted. All the municipalities show UBC until 1998 +-then change to the CBC. I suspect that more rural communities might adopt/accept the IRC code; however based on conversations with the office of the state Architect (CA) I believe the CBC is the only accepted code under (CA) title 24 codes. I mainly deal with multifamily and commercial buildings in my day to day work. Some of the projects were built on the late 60's and through adaptive reuse were converted to condominiums over the last decade. My experience with Nevada codes is that the IBC and IRC are in play. The counties or cities pass amendments that the building official implements. It is very interesting dealing with all of the different codes in play at different times. I have two projects in Florida one is under the 2001 Florida building code and the other was designed under the 1994 Standard building code but the municipality only adopted the 1991 SBC then adopted the 1997 SBC. As some will know the SBC code changes between 91, 94, and 97 were major reorganizations. My understanding from single family residences I built in Utah 5/8 type X was always required in the late 80?s and 90?s for all garage walls with structural framing. Ceilings were also required to be 5/8 type X even if there is no living space above.

Brandon: As long as it is type X gypsum correct? Otherwise it would only be a 3/4 hour rating for the 1/2 inch drywall.