Bill Kibbel

That was my first thought - yankin' on a corner.

Surface texture - grippy or not grippy.

There's some handy eaves vents that have been discussed here that don't involve an insulation-blocked soffit. If you don't think adding more ventilation to an old-house attic will be a benefit to the roof, that's fine. Properly balanced air flow sure seems to help reduce ice dams and condensation inside the eaves.

No. An HI could find just enough info in this thread, combined with the info at the linked pages to get his/her butt handed to 'em. Like when incorrectly specifying which pump can handle what depth of well and declaring something a "shallow well" when it's not. Or, telling folks to go at a hydro-pneumatic tank with a bicycle pump to fix a much more serious problem. Water supply systems can be hugely expensive to my clients. I like to give 'em very accurate info. I try to know as much about it as any other system in a building. I looked over the link Mike posted to a Private Water supply course. It has some useful info, but not enough to perform a complete inspection and identify components or problems correctly.

There's some serious misinformation being posted here and at the 2 links to another site. Anyone here inspecting buildings with private water supply systems should get proper training. You should also learn the requirements for these systems in each county that you serve.

Here's what appears at the original link you posted: "Questionable site - avoid entering sensitive data". You claim to be from NY, yet your IP is in Russia. I think http://thetanklessheaters.com/ is a phishing site and a scam.

If you can see a significant difference in the flow during a pump cycle, it's possible the hydro-pneumatic tank has failed. If the on/off cycles are quick, it has definitely failed. One screw/nut raises and lowers the cut-in and cut-off pressures simultaneously. The other adjusts the difference between the cut-in and cut-off pressure. The old standard was 30/50 PSI. The new standard is 40/60.

What's the big deal - is it some kind of rare or exotic plant? []

As far as I can remember, caulking has been a code approved method for transitioning from plastic to a cast iron hub. ("caulking" is the term used for the traditional oakum and lead joint). I see it far more often than the "Fernco donut".

Well, if you're gonna bring it up and over the parapet, the coping goes OVER the membrane. But as Kurt always mentions, it's better to terminate well below the top of the wall with a reglet or termination bar flashing method. Where the vertical wall meets the roof, a cant strip should be installed (without a cant, the membrane always tears and cracks at this joint). The wall flashing cap sheet then has to extend 6" beyond the cant strip onto the roof surface. The seams are a mess too.

Based on the pictures, the only blister needing repair is the one moving a seam. The parapet sucks. I'd tell 'em to replace it but, be sure they don't walk all over the blisters when the work is performed.

Holy Crap! Useful language? Those are some of the most piss-poor examples of report writing language we've ever seen on this site. Not to mention some really worthless advice to a buyer.

Oh, here's Andy's Lithomex page: http://www.palimeworks.com/lwus/default ... homex.html

It can be restored and preserved. The only product to be used for sedimentary stone is Lithomex. Andy DeGruchy is the US supplier. Download Attachment: lithomex_recommend.pdf 120.35 KB

Click to Enlarge 17.88 KB From Mechanics Of The Household by E. S. Keene 1918

Jim is quite likely correct. If it's a tall cylinder tank and appears to be 20 gallon capacity or more, it's a range boiler. All of the range boiler tanks I've seen are supported on the bottom by a cast iron trivet stand. It stored hot water from the "water back" of a coal or wood-fired cooking range. The water back was a cast iron box installed in place of the rear fire-box lining in the range. Many of these exploded causing injuries and death. I have a diagram somewhere.

Might wanna mention the reflection is from a window.

Were you on F Troop?

Now that's funny. It's even funnier now that I just found this: http://www.insiderouttravel.com/2009/03 ... -2009.html

The only word he misspelled is indepth. I was illustrating that he just had a problem with a homophobe homophone.

Can't post many words - Google T-lock shingles.

Eye don't no why you're sew hostel two hymn. I'm shore he nose or new heed bee judged buy his piers buy watt he rote. Wood ewe rather halve hymn knot right anything to urn moore prophet?

If it's the only way to see the other crawlspace - sure.

It's a one-page ad, not a manual. I have seen some of these though, in simpler form, made by Humphrey, Hoffman and I think a Rex. Never a Ruud, which is the original automatic water heater. As water flows, it triggers the main gas valve to open. A standing pilot ignites the gas that heats the copper coil. There's an internal temperature regulator that reduces the gas flow when too hot. When the water flow stops, the main gas valve closes. Some areas had "coal gas" and the coils required regular cleaning, thus the doors.

I agree it's wicked cool, but if you took it home with you, what would you do with it? I picture it in the corner of the library, but my chair would be displaced. If the wife were to actually let me bring something like that into the house, I better convert it to a coffee maker. Like certain types of historic buildings, adaptive reuse may be a viable method for preserving some of these outdated building components.