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Failed to find where your website had structural data. Can you post specific URL Matt

Reminds me of a friend I played baseball with when I was about 10. He didint show up for practice one day. Turns out someone had shot into the air with a .22 and it hit the back of his neck. Although he wasn't paralyzed, he lost alot of "control", almost as if he had had a stroke, and to think he was only 10. Shotguns up in the air, Rifles down low. Matt

I have no faith in it working. Seeing the governments track record and all. I'll stop there Matt

Lack of gap around exterior edges? Mopping with damp mop instead of using no water-hardwood floor? Maybe they sealed pre-finished wood and it got in cracks causing buckling during swelling season? Water in general? Matt Tear it out, do it again... right

Photo-cell A photocell is a type of resistor. When light strikes the cell, it allows current to flow more freely. When dark, its resistance increases dramatically. Any and all light is made up of Photons. Matt

I'm trying to find either an Oklahoma or national health/safety law or some kind of information about required water pressure, possibly for rentals. If I can find some information the city might help me with my problem, but I am having trouble finding anything relative. I've got 36 rentals and they have 17 pounds of pressure. It's a real turn off for trying to rent, and the system is a gravity fed with the tanks only being about 10-15 foot above the hill the rental complex is on. I have considered some form of booster pump etc, except its on 7 different meters so that would get a tad expensive. The city said my 2" water meters come off of a 6" main line directly and theres nothing they can do because to raise one tower means to raise them all as thier interconnected. The suggested some kinda of well system but they said it would be 2-3 thousand.... per meter for material alone. Any other ideas about a fix to my problem I would appreciate it, I have 7 meters and a decent amount of room to do it but nothing huge due to main gas water and sewer line run through the complex near the meters. Thanks, Matt What's the lowest water pressure yall have seen in a house?

Thanks for all the input guys, I think the client called a HVAC right after we left the scene of the "incident" and they said it needs to be replaced, I think they will go with a "heat strip" heater. Now, This is new to me, but are yall saying that some people use a heat pump (reversal of AC) as a primary heating element? Matt

Similar, I guess the old Electric heater went out. Home owner bought a gas unit to replace his electric unit (good deal? Home owner cut out all that electronic crap and wired the Heat pump to work when the thermostat is turned to heat There was never gas to the home. Someone replaced and electric with a gas, and decided to use heat pump instead of buying a electric heater. He had to do alot of re-wiring to create this monstrosity. It may be my explaining thats confusing you Marc =P Thanks for the interest Matt

To make sure I was clear, The electric heat pump is the ONLY source of heat, there is a gas furnace inside but its completely bypassed. There is no Natural gas available to the home's area, nor is there a propane tank on the premise. Where I'm from originally most central heat units are electric. Since I moved to Northern Oklahoma, I've seen mostly gas furnaces. When there was a heat pump system on a gas furnace in Texas, it was not used as the main source of heat either, But my question is the not this. There is NO gas supply to the house, let alone the heater. All the HSI circuitry and micro chip boards have been removed with a pair of wire cutters. Then bypassed with wire and wire nuts. When you put the thermostat on heat OR Emerg the heat pump automatically kicks on, Neither one affects the gas part. Sorry If I'm not very clear on my writing. There is a reason I have my work proof read for clarity =) Matt

Today I did an inspection and found little stuff, nothing out of the ordinary, although a "handy-man" or the home owner, unknown honestly did a total complete remodel of the house. I assume he did the furnace also. I opened up the furnace and noticed many wire nuts inside all taped with vinyl tape. Several micro-chip boards laying in the bottom of the cabinet. and several fuses installed throught the circuitry (commonly installed to short fuse instead of a $350 circuit board which was not installed). The house was about 70 degrees upon arrival. And the vents were blowing about 89-91 degree air. I began my sequence of checking stuff on the furnace. When i turned the thermostat up to watch the sequence the squirrel cage immediatly came on. Nothing else happened. I figured out that the heat pump was running on regular heat, and when i turned it to emergency heat. The gas line was not hooked up. The house was not hooked up with gas. The house is being heated with a heat pump only. Nothing about the gas furnace works, the draft inducer, electric valve everything is bypassed and have no juice whatsoever. Has any one ever heard of this before? It seems like an odd occurance, but was kind of humurous. The unit is a 2002 unit. So I know that it has lasted for 8 years of use. I know its incorrectly installed/wired, but as long as the wiring is safe/correct and the evaporator pool (I'm starting to get past my limited knowledge of hvac as I am still learning) is correct, could this be a viable function if you dont mind your electric meter spinning quite fast? Thanks, Matt Oh and its a Goodman unit

Had a phone call yesterday morning that was interesting. A man called seeking information, help, and some one to work for him. He needed a inspector that could do code and compliance check for him (He gave a form number as an example but I do not have it with me at this moment). Said he had a 200 house subdivision ready to be sold off house by house but before he could do so, they had to be inspected by a certified code and compliance (officer?) Sounds like a city inspector to me putting a green tag on it, but it is outside city limits and had to be complete for the U.S. Government. That's about all the information he would give at this time. Said it was similar to FHA loan but wasn't FHA. Maybe some kind of grant. Said he would be calling me in a few weeks. Was interesting turn of events, any body ever heard of an item similar? Matt

Just thought I'd share my findings This is the most layers I have found yet. (asphalt) Click to Enlarge 37.01 KB 8 Layers on this 1960 house. How common is it to find this many layers? The house shows NO settlement other then on one wall theres a vertical crack close to corner on brick outside, but unable to be found inside. Its around a 4 pitch roof with 2x6 rafters and 1x6 ridge board. Very sound house.

"Besides, has anyone else heard the awful noise that their draft inducer motors make? - Jim Katen, Oregon" Lord yes, I have a goodman in my basement. It's either a 91 or 01 model (HWH is the other, haven't had to look at them in a while *knock on wood*) But the squirrel cage is worse when it kicks on. Its a 135k incoming BTU. It does its job for now, but it is terribly loud and I think it's on its last leg. Sorry, I'm listening to it as I type =P Matt

Should there be anti-oxidant paste on the aluminum wire connections? Matt Hah, Just did a search on TIJ and found some knowledgable info on the paste, "my bad". I guess the answer is, Should be, but is not required.

Normally in East Texas, black iron would stub outside of house with a valve, followed by yellow flex going underground to propane. But propane suppliers in my area also said tanks had to be 14' from the house minimum or the gas company would not fill the tank. They also inspected gas fixtures inside before the first filling. Matt

http://www.hgtv.com/home-improvement/le ... index.html I've had same problem with rentals being vacant. Matt

Jim, Know any college students that would do you a favor? Alot of times a college book store will have the full blown version of MS office for a rediculous cheap price. I've seen it 50 dollars I've seen it 25 dollars for the 300-500 dollar program. Just a thought. Matt

I've been browsing the internet looking at various books directed toward home inspectors. Would any of you personally recommend any particular book? I have seen a few get recommended on this site, but curious if any others are out there. Thanks, Matt

Hmm valid point =) Although not every joint is "scabbed", some are They knew it needed them during installation though =) Click to Enlarge 50.23 KB Matt Interesting piece of material, another example of why yall are so helpful to beginners like myself, thanks again.

The orginal roof sheathing was CD the replacement was OSB, H-clips were used on original, so I will note it as missing H clips =) I can also push on the osb and make it flex with minimal effort (20 pounds force?)

The house was re-roofed 3-6 weeks ago and when decking was replaced they used OSB and no H-clips between rafters (2' centers) Also found this rafter patch, just no sure what its for/from. Click to Enlarge 40.17 KB

How much of a temperature drop should I expect with the return air at or around 65 degrees? 15-20? Thanks, Matt Just asking because a realtor was saying it shouldn't drop it below 60 (my reading)

Thanks for all the feedback, Youre right about the description of the town, sheese.... every since I moved here I find something new... Funny to look at, not so funny to repair/replace. Thanks, Matt

Yeah Ag Metal is practically the same thing sometimes different Gauge. Its one of the cheaper/est metal roofs that still looks good. The town I'm in is a high welfare, high poverty, high rental unit town so the cheapest way out is commonly the way it is done. The sheets are 3' on center (rib to rib not edge to edge) with 5 1-1/2 wide by 3/4 tall ribs and 2 flat raised strips between each rib for added strength. The sheets are whateve rlength you need, say you have a wall 35' to ridge, you order a sheet long enough to go from top to bottom in one run, no joints, same as on the roof. (Wonder how this affects expansion/contraction or if it is enough to worry about) It is VERY common to be on a roof here, and sometimes on the side of a house. Althouh If I was doing roof and siding metal I would just have a metal building built, and build a house inside and detail it nicely, hard to tell the difference if your not looking for it (but you would because the metal outside....) So on a house does there need to be j-mold around the windows? Or are you a beleiver of, "pole barn, not pole house" =)

Sorry, but no pictures, I just looked at it for a friend and didn't have my camera with me. The house is 5-6 years old and was built by some yahoo who didn't know what he was doing (Words of my friend, but I do agree.). It has vinyl windows and metal siding (I believe its called type M - it's been a while). _ _ _ _ _ / \_______/ \__________/ \____________/ \_____________/ \_ Do you like the "picture"? =) I believe the windows are new construction type with a nailer flange. It appears the windows were attached to the stud wall before installing the siding. Then the metal siding was installed over the stud walls (hopefully with firring strips/purlins). The metal is fairly clean cut within 1/2" or so from the side of the windows. The windows are not trimmed whatsoever and the joint between the metal and the vinyl is not caulked, There is BOUND to be water running down the metal siding on the inside during even light rains. Would the correct thing be to remove the siding sheets, install J-mold and reattach the siding? It's a pain in the butt, but there is supposed to be a J-Mold around the windows correct? (remember this is NE oklahoma.... heh) Thanks, Matt