Marc

Looks like a lot of fun building it. My father & I built several carports and other stuff for our siblings when I was younger using double X tubing and sucker rods (plunger rods from pumpers) that we got free from an oilfield my father worked at. Those are good weld beads in those pictures. Are you a professional welder? Marc

I don't quite follow. I always though that an RH value of between 40% and 60% is healthiest for humans. My daughter got nosebleeds in the winter until I installed a portable room sized humidifyer in the largest room of the house which is set to maintain 60% humidity (duty cycle hits 100% for a few days during cold spells as the RH varies from 40 to 60%). Water condensing on the windows is a sign of heat loss. Of course, I'm from the Gulf Coastal area where the winters seldom get below 32 degrees. Marc

Did I just hear Mike's pruning shears come off the shelf? Marc

I never had a weight problem until I started inspecting 7 years ago. I'm 15 Ibs over at 190 and 5'10 1/2 and I responded to it by eating just 'what I need' rather than 'what I want'. Simply said, not so simply done. So, for 4 months now, I've been running 3-4 times/week. Always loved it. Best beer I ever had, Mongo, was at some small place in downtown Toronto that piped in the beer from a mini-distillery right next door. They actually punched holes in the masonry dividing wall for the pipes. No preservatives! Marc

I don't see anything wrong with your plan of attack. As for your diagnosis, let me first assume that by 'lack of sufficient insulation overall', you were referring to a lack of sufficient ceiling level insulation and perhaps other insulation also. I also assume that by 'sheathing', you were referring to the underside of the roof deck. I would suggest that a lack of sufficient insulation at the ceiling level would hinder the formation of condensation rather than aggravate it, since the extra heat would elevate the temperature of the attic air and help provide for a gap between the air temperature and the dew point. It's when that gap is lost that condensation begins. The dew point itself might be getting help from humidity that is migrating from conditioned spaces to the attic spaces. The attic access is certainly one pathway for that to happen but there are other penetrations in the ceiling for lights, ducts, etc that could be poorly sealed and are contributing to that migration of moisture. Of course, you're probably familiar with all this. This just refreshes your memory. Marc

Matt said that it was similiar to an FHA inspection and it's for the government. For me, FHA Final inspections pay more (per unit time) than home inspections. You can bet I'd be checking that lead out for more details right quick. Marc

It sounds like a clear case of 'backyard' engineering to me. Your client would certainly not look, with boundless joy, upon someone's tinkering with the HVAC system on such a large scale, so I'd be sure to describe this finding in the report and to recommend that a qualified HVAC contractor return the system to an 'industry approved' installation. Marc

I understand a little better now, thanks. So, it seems that a new heat pump system was purchased to replace the original gas powered furnace except that the original gas furnace with the blower within it was retained and custom rewired to supply the needs of the new indoor heat pump coil. I'm assuming that the new inside coil came with the heat pump system in it's own cabinet and was attached to the original gas powered furnace/blower assembly. Do I have the correct picture? Marc

In my part of the country, a gas furnace is not used as a backup source of heat for a heat pump. Maybe the northern states are different. Marc

Doesn't the AF & PA Wood Frame Construction Manual for One and Two Family Dwellings have something on it? Anyone have a copy? Marc

A lot of factors involved and a little difficult if you can't be there to see it yourself. Floor is insulated so i'm assuming the foundation walls are not. Washington state, cold and humid climate. Insulate the foundation walls down to the footing and use the crawlspace for an HVAC return air plenum. Still a wild guess. Marc

befor collig, i couldnt spell injuneer and now i are one. Marc

I'm with Kurt. I would not wait for visible damage to show before writing it up. Marc

PVC conduit, from the looks of it. Probably 1/2". Marc

The allowable ampacity depends not only on the size and composition of the conductor but also on the temperature rating of the insulation. If the insulation can withstand higher temperatures then a higher amperage can be permitted. Marc

One question for Jim: Is the grounding equipment conductor considered to be a current carrying conductor? Marc

I used ServiceMagic online advertising for 2 or 3 years. It's worthless. Marc

A small job like that might be a good opportunity to try your own hand at bricklaying. I did a couple of times with CMU's. Didn't come out too bad. It was outdoors in a remote area where no one would hear my cursing. Marc

As I understand the relevant portions of the 06' IRC, the cables need to be either spaced or derated. Derating would cause problems with the existing overcurrent protection becoming no longer adequate and perhaps also cause problems with the house's general purpose outlets no longer adequate for the area served. From the photo, I don't know if spacing the cables is feasible, but I'll say this...That's the work of one lousy electrician. Power cables that are bundled are not ventilated as well as cables that are spaced, so yes, they are more likely to overheat. The magnetism generated by the electric currents in the conductors exerts a force on them that tends to either pull them together or push them apart. Once the insulation is hot enough and fluid enough, that's what happens and arcing/fire results. I would certainly write it up, one way or the other. Marc

I don't know which electrical code book is the law in NY state but the 09' IRC does not permit even the CBO to waive code requirements. Marc

'Ground' is the reference point. Marc

Fecal matter from drywood termites would have a 6 sided (or is it 8 sided?) drum shape. Marc

Let's work on our terminology for a minute: Voltage: a measure of electromotive force. By 'carrying a voltage' is meant the presence or absence of a voltage on the surface of a conductor. Current: a measure of the time rate flow of an electrical charge. By 'carrying a current' is meant the presence or absence of a flow of electrical charge through a conductor. To check for voltage on a conductor, connect one lead of your voltmeter to electrical ground which means that terminal which is at ground potential. Connect the other lead of your voltmeter to the conductor being tested for the presence of voltage. Read the value of voltage on the voltmeter. To check for current through a conductor, encircle the conductor with your clamp-on ampmeter or, if no such instrument is available, open the circuit, then close it again using your ampmeter or a suitable shunt. Ok. Now what I mean when I say that neutrals do not carry significant voltage is that, without opening the circuit, if you check for the presence of voltage on a neutral, you should not get a significant reading, regardless of whether the circuit is carrying an electrical load or not. All clear? Marc

I never said that there was no current on neutrals. I did say...

I don't have either one, though I could describe the arrangement if you wish. Marc PS just don't give me any more neutrals with lethal voltages on them, series connected voltmeters or anything like that. It's making my hair go white.