aaronm

I might be able to make 80 inches work. 72 inches would be better.

Sorry for the redundancy. Did not see earlier similar reply.

Portland-cement stucco should be terminated at window and door openings with casing bead. This prevents the stucco from coming into contact with the window or door frame and allows the installation of closed-cell backer rod topped with sealant. This isolation both allows for expansion and contraction of the stucco and window and prevents the stucco components from damaging the window frames, especially if vinyl.

As I am rapidly approaching 70, after 25 years of hauling and climbing heavy ladders, I am looking for a lighter alternative. I am currently using a 34 lb. Gorilla multi-ladder for roofs. What I need is something long enough and light enough to get into attics where the builder was too cheap to install a pull-down attic stair unit or the owner was too lazy to maintain it. I have looked at several alternatives like the Little Giant Helium (out of stock everywhere) and collapsible ladders. Since I cannot find the one I am tempted to look into the other. That said, I have never owned a collapsible anything other than a camping coffee cup. Whatever, I need for it to fit in the back of a Chrysler Pacifica van. Should I attempt to foist my 225 lbs onto something named collapsible, or does someone have a better idea?

Some moron broke into my van last night and stole some tools. FLIR BCAM Infrared Camera Serial #278016421 Technidea Zip Level Pro 2000 Serial # 14297 $100 finders fee and $250 if you can provide the name of the douce bag that stole them. Thanks, Aaron

Has anyone had experience with cement-bonded particle board panels in exterior wall construction?

Client's daughter has 2007 townhome where clothes dryer top gets hot and does not dry clothes. She had the vent professionally cleaned and they found no obstructions. Builder (of course) says that it was installed properly. They want me to take a peek and perform miracles. My idea is to run the dryer and use the IR camera to try and trace the length of the vent in the wall. Any better ideas?

There are also the concerns of the door manufacturer's installation instructions. Many door makers stipulate that interior grade hollow-core doors be installed only in interior partition separation applications. Exterior installations of these doors can lead to delamination and deterioration above and beyond the insulation issues.

If one is to be involved in a profession one has the choice of the level of involvement desired. A lack of support for any organization is the right path for the inspector who is not fully engaged in the profession. A full-time professional has an obligation to himself and his profession to support the professional advancement organization of choice. My choice is ASHI, though I do now and have in the past supported others as well. For all of their foibles they stand taller than the rest, in my experience. So, sit on the sidelines if that is your choice, but if you really want to be looked upon by your peers as a professional, your support is needed. Get involved.

It will still work without the ground connection. But, unless the receptacle is connected to a two-wire cable, it should not be showing an open ground condition.

I don't see much wrong with Barry Stone's comments. This thread sounds to me like a lot of harping from roof-walkers envious of pontificaters.[:-weepn]

You can repair dented, cracked or otherwise distressed fiber-cemet siding with a latex-modified cementitious patching compound available from either the siding manufacturer or others such as: http://www.nuplexconstruction.co.nz/htm ... apatch.pdf

Perhaps chocolate tube slime. http://www.messiah.edu/Oakes/fungi_on_wood/club%20and%20coral/species%20pages/Stemonitis.htm

Why would you want to? But, if you absolutley must, then target the local real estate school graduates. You can probably buy their lists for little or nothing (what they are worth).

I have not seen anything specific from the major manufacturers, i.e. Simpson, Amerivent, Metal-Fab, et al. Though three seems the optimal number, I suppose that two would suffice for the minimalists.

I got the word back from Zurn. They say it is OK to direct connect PEX to the TPR valve. Go figure.

Even though PEX may be allowed by the IRC for TPR drain lines, I do not believe that direct connection of the PEX would be allowed. I currently have a request in to Zurn for an opinion. Click to Enlarge 14.75 KB

You might consider full body armour around that flooring crew!

Caoimhín: So then, is there any product (or comibination of products) that you feel is effective for mould remediation on ceullose products?

Mold is not considered to be a wood-destroying insect (hence WDI) in Texas. So then, the certified applicator (CA) is not required to inspect for their presence. However, the Texas Real Estate Commission requires that the home inspector do so, even though arguably not trained for the job.

A drip leg no, unless your utility company uses wet gas. A sediment trap or "dirt leg", yes, as required by IRC. The two terms are often and erroneously used interchangeably.

Brandon: If you really want to s-t-r-e-t-c-h the IRC: R506.2 Site preparation. The area within the foundation walls shall have all vegetation, top soil and foreign material removed. Removal of construction debris and foreign materials, such as lumber formwork, stakes, tree stumps and other vegetation, limits the attraction of termites, insects and vermin. Top soil and soil vegetation should also be removed because such top soil is generally loosely compacted or so full of vegetation that soil settlement will occur when the vegetation decays. For concrete slabs placed on uncompacted fill or on large quantities of foreign materials, differential settlement may take place as a result of subsequent compaction of the soil, which can result in cracking of the floor slab and the interior wall/ceiling finishes. This IRC 2006 commentary at least states the intention of the code to eliminate situations attractive to termites. You may be better off to refer to whatever literature is available from the entity in your state that licenses wood-destroying-insect inspectors. See page 7 of the attached document for an example. Aaron Download Attachment: viewpdf_1021.pdf 175.99 KB

They still build new buildings with this material in Eastern Europe.

Jim: Except in Texas: (k) Water heaters. The inspector shall: (1) report the energy source; (2) inspect the unit and report as in need of repair fittings that leak or are corroded; (3) report as in need of repair temperature and pressure relief valve piping that lacks gravity drainage, is improperly sized (no smaller than the outlet fittings), has deficiencies in material, or lacks a correct termination; (4) report as in need of repair a temperature and pressure relief valve that does not operate when the valve is of an operable type and operation will not cause damage to persons or property as reasonably determined by the inspector (for example, it would be reasonable not to operate the valve if there is improper or undetermined termination of the drain pipe, a corroded or damaged valve, improper installation of valve or drain pipe, the drain pipe is of inappropriate material or there is no water supply cut-off valve at the unit); Aaron

Wonder if their listed?