randynavarro

Thanks, Chad. Wondering if laying a sheet of 6 mil or even buying extra thin-mil TPO (it's surprisingly affordable) directly on the deck would be a better option. I bought the foam already-used from Insulation Depot. It's in very good condition; however, there are the occasional dings and nicks out of the corners and edges. Really big holes that could take a lot of foam. Mainly just inquiring if vapor barrier is critical. I don't want to rely on the poly-iso only. Cooling degree days average 35-45 deg. Not extreme.

Hey guys. Personal dilemma trying to figure the best scenario for re-roofing my house. My 60's rambler roof structure is made of 4x8 beams at 6' o.c. The roof deck is only 2x6 T&G boards across the beams. That's it. Inside, all you see are the open beams and T&G decking. Just 1 1/2" of wood between us and the sky! No insulation. Slope is 2:12. I will be installing 2.5" of poly-iso board on top and re-roofing with TPO. Question: would you recommend a vapor barrier on top of the T&G before the insulation? No vapor barrier? I can't find any information from the manufacturer (Carlisle); at least on their website. Our marine climate warrants vapor barriers on the inside but of course there's no where to put in on the open vault. What do you think?

Thanks y'all. Sounds like there's no clear right or wrong when it comes to re-using the windows if one is willing to detail the opening--whatever it will be--carefully enough. BTW, my father-in-law was heavily involved in construction defect litigation on the west coast for 20 years as an architect/expert witness. His data shows that Milgard windows were some of the best. Must be a left coast thing. . .

I have a client who will be stripping the existing siding off the home, adding a 2nd story, and installing new fiber-cement panel siding over furring strips (rainscreen.) Their existing window are "retro-fit" dual-pane, low-e units but with no integral flange. They would like to re-use the windows to save costs. I am not aware of a way to re-use the windows and integrate them correctly with the new WRB and siding. I contacted a field rep for Milgard and even he wasn't much help; "Well it probably won't work, but maybe there's a way. . . " was his response. Does anyone have any published standard, mfg's spec's, or architectural detail showing how this could be done?

You can also download the HUD guide for Mfg. Housing. It's bulky but somewhat helpful.

Sorry. I have nothing to offer. I thought the thread was title Thinga ma boobs.

Sheesh. . . you guys are a lotta help . . .

It's suffering the ravages of a misspent youth. When it was younger it experimented with "dirty" power, associated with off-brand panels, and shared multi-wire circuits with others of the same pole. Now, it lives out its old age in decrepitude, a servant to a heat pump it loathes. Good. That's what I'll tell my client. . .

It's suffering the ravages of a misspent youth. When it was younger it experimented with "dirty" power, associated with off-brand panels, and shared multi-wire circuits with others of the same pole. Now, it lives out its old age in decrepitude, a servant to a heat pump it loathes. You're amongst friends, Jim. Do you wanna talk about it?

Never seen it before. . . North side of roof. Not consistent throughout, only random spots. Any ideas? Click to Enlarge 43.75 KB Click to Enlarge 51.25 KB Click to Enlarge 33.05 KB

Why would only this breaker be corroded and none others around it? It was off when I arrived. It's for the outdoor condenser/heat pump which I couldn't get to run by the way. . . Click to Enlarge 56.37?KB

Good thoughts. I remember walking on certain areas and noticed--when I thought to look down at my feet while walking--it seemed like water was being squeezed out of the shingle. Sort of like stepping on a water-soaked sponge. Maybe a dumb question, but can a shingle actually hold water rather than repel it?

For a roof that looks acceptably installed when walking on it, why would it be so severely leaking when viewed from the attic? Not a trick question; I've come across three roofs in the last 2 weeks that certainly took me by surprise. All three roofs had quite a bit of moss growth. Any connection? Other ideas?

Probably the scariest moment of my home inspection career: was in a crawl space and saw what I thought was a hole from a burrowing rat. I crawled to it, shined my light down the hole and the flashlight beam bounced off a pool of water maybe 20' below ground. I crawled out as fast as I could and informed my clients of my scare. They didn't buy the house. Don't know whatever happened to that place. . .

Well, if you haven't cinched 'em up tight enough, or there's a tear in your Depends....... ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike Yes. Welcome.

I spend quite a bit of time on the road and DNS works well in my situation as I dictate findings in to a digital recorder while driving. Get home, plug recorder into USB and Dragon kicks it out. Then I cut and paste in to my report. Works even better when I hire my assistant that will take the recording and clean it all up and produce the report. . .

I'm still using it regularly and getting better at it. That's a great price!

Found this tonight. I'm going to order one and see how it does. http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications ... u=S30-1104

Do any of the Duluth pant wearers know what the rise measurement is? I need at least 17".

I've tried lots of different things (except cargo pants) but always come back to some sort of tool belt; especially now that I carry a full size DSLR. Made a custom holster for it that I carry on my right side. Small tool pouch on my left side.

If the cable is the wrong type, though, what's to stop a person from simply re-connecting the cables back to the breakers, disconnect, etc? More specifically: 12-2 romex (non UF), traveling underground under a newly poured concrete patio feeding a whole host of electrical ugliness in the detached outbuilding. Because the homeowner can't afford to have an electrician correct all the violations, it's cheaper to *delete* the circuit altogether to satisfy loan requirements. Sparky merely disconnected the cable from the breakers--didn't even remove the breakers from the bus.

Besides physical removal of the wire/cable, does anyone have a reference for what constitutes deletion/removal/disabling, of a circuit? Case in point: improper romex wire feeder to an outbuilding from the main house. How to *delete* it? Remove the wires from the breaker? Cut the wire where it enters the panel? Cut the wire where it enters the outbuilding?

Good stuff and well done. Your voice: I've met you before but didn't realize you had such a rich voice. Good mic'ing. At first, I thought a professional was doing a voice-over but then saw you talking and thought. . . .hmmm. . . voice-over career. . . radio, TV. Maybe better dough than home inspections. . . .

I disagree. There is code and then there is what you can see, smell and feel. I've seen hundreds, maybe thousands, of crawlspaces where the venting met code and there were moisture issues and I've seen just as many that met code and didn't have any issues. The physical condition of a house doesn't care what's written in a code book. The house will do what it's going to do; it's our job to spot those issues, make the client aware of the implications and give them a sensible recommendation. I'm in Robert's region. I know that a lot of builders around here will use pea gravel to raise the level of the crawlspace floor above water intrusion so that it appears like there is a very nice dry crawlpace. When I see a crawl full of pea gravel, I dig down as deep as I can to see how far below the surface I'll find the water and I'll always recommend a barrier - even if the ventilation is well above the code minimimum required to justify ditching the barrier. Consider it a belt and suspenders approach. Most builders don't argue about it; a barrier is cheap and they, like us, know that they only see a crawl in a snapshot of time - there's no telling what might happen six months down the road - so why not put a barrier in to be on the safe side? ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike I'm not sure that's correct. Don't have time to look it up right now but gotta get ready for the kids' b-day party. . . I believe the only time a VB is not required is when there's concrete on the ground. Could be wrong. . . .

Although there is only one HUD, there are four regional Home Ownership Centers (H.O.C.'s) that actually enforce FHA/HUD guidelines in the states within their jurisdiction. Of course, they're all supposed to be following the same guidelines, but it's disturbing the differences between one H.O.C. and another. The Consultant/Home inspection licensing letter is certainly a national letter; however if you speak to a representative in the Atlanta H.O.C., you might get a different response or interpretation from the Santa Ana H.O.C. Again I say. . . they want to run health care?!