randynavarro

I got a job inspecting government housing - 12 of them. People in those houses could care less about energy improvements and weatherization. They were nice folks sure enough, but when you're living off the gov't teat you just don't take care of your house - cuz the gov't does. And another interesting fact: the occupants of the homes were immigrants. I don't know if they were recent or multi-generational. I do know that very few of them could speak any sort of English. Not getting political here, just clarifying the windfall from the feds; if you're a weatherization contractor, there's opportunity. If you're an energy auditor or HERS Rater, there's not.

I agree with Rob. I don't think there's really any tricks, you just have to practice to get really good at being efficient. Frankly, these days I've stripped so much out of the program, I'm almost writing reports from scratch.

I think I've stepped on a few holes in my time. They were on flat roofs so I couldn't verify for sure. My theory is the combo of paper underlayment and roof material (mod-bit, asphalt roll, whatever. . . ) will actually hold quite a bit of weight. Don't want to be proven wrong though.

Best to you in your new venture, Paul. Trouble here is as home inspectors, I'm almost sure none of us actually installs insulation, therefore you probably won't get any responses. There's some of us, though, who might have some tips on how to re-loft the stuff after trampling or crawling through an attic. . .. ahem, (Mike O).

Why not just put the iso foam board on the roof deck? Why the OSB skins?

Been using these for 3 or 4 years now: http://www.bootieshoecover.com/

Bummer. LP yet again. It's ok though. The feds will bail them out too.

Try here: http://www.powscience.com/store/zerotoy ... stick.html

So, you're reinforcing what I hope most of us know and believe; take care of the moisture problem. BUT. . . What's to be done with the existing blackened and whitish or greenish splotchy stuff still remaining on the attic sheathing?

So. . . . Where would a curious inspecting unit look to find the best mold control agents that actually do something?

Looks like a pooper-pumper to me also. The sealed lid and the 3" (I'm assuming) discharge line tells me that (although I can't recall right off hand if a 3" line is even required for a sewage pump - I'd have to look that one up.) Hopefully there was a backflow preventer on the 3" line? And, yeah, where is the power cord?

Some types of cement backer board will set it off and so will certain types of porcelain and marble tile. The meter is useless on these materials. Something to do with the mineral content - not sure which mineral(s). I left my periodic chart by my bedside.

I've only had Garmin. Rarely disappointed. Now, I've got the Nuvi from Costco. $149.00 My only beef: the Nuvi's dashboard/windshield mounting cradle does NOT have a live DC connection. The DC connector plugs in to the back of the Nuvi itself. In my older Garmin, the DC cable plugged into the cradle. This made it easy because you merely had to dock the GPS and it would automatically be powered and charged. With the Nuvi, you have to cradle it, then plug the DC cord in. Or, as I use it, just run it on the battery 'til it dies and then plug it to let it charge overnight. P.S. GPS has been some of the best money I've ever spent. We use it frequently when out of town to navigate our way to stores, gas stations, restaurants, etc. in strange lands.

Thanks, Brandon. No need for apologies. That was just one of those sites I couldn't navigate properly. Checking the manuals, I discovered pretty much what Kurt mentioned. The specs and drawings are almost identical to what mfr's produce. Good thing is the NRCA is an independent third party so their un-biased to any particular product.

Nice. Very nice. In Bain's crawl space photos, the darkened areas in the wood, then, are enzyme stains? Aggravated by moisture?

Well, this might make for interesting conversation. Caomhin, why would you conclude there isn't a moisture problem in the attic? You indicate the staining was already present when the plwyood was installed. Do you think the stains were that dark before installation? Cool.

Man. . . . Thank you. I looked for twenty minutes on that site - twice! Hopefully I can find things in a house better. . . .

Wow. I must be thick and blind. Brandon referred to a free copy of the manuals. I don't see them anywhere.

Thanks Brandon, but where?

Is it worth the price? There are so many specs and install details from manufacturers that are already free online. Is the NRCA Manual any more helpful?

Thanks, Darren. After perusing on and off for the last day or so, that's about the only credible source I've located thus far. I'm surprised. Seems like such common sense to not stick that much vent outside in a cold climate.

So here's a situation: In the garage, this gas furnace and water heater. . . . Click to Enlarge 47.32 KB Vent out through this. . . . Click to Enlarge 53.4 KB There's this problem. . . Click to Enlarge 52.81 KB And this problem inside the water heater. . . Click to Enlarge 56.01 KB I've called for replacement of the water heater, and major re-configuration of the b-vent outside to either bring it inside the house (where it was originally), or build an insulated chase around it to keep the ambient temp. around the vent warmer. Furnace guy and water heater guys say nothing wrong - nothing needs replacing. I can't find specific info. right now that talks about b-vent runs outside. In fact, there may not be anything but I haven't turned over every stone yet. Any help?

I was quite surprised today to learn that James Hardie makes another line of fiber cement siding board called Cemplank. Apparently, it's identical to Hardieplank but with a lesser warranty (which equals less cost.) I've reviewed the install specs. and they're also identical to Hardieplank. I am humbled yet again by the amount of things I don't know . . . .

It was very fun - more fun than we've had around here in a while.

Nice work.