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Row Lock flashing


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I'm out in the field and can only speak from my past experience as a journeyman mason (years ago).

If it was merely a garden or retaining wall, the specs never called for flashing. If it was, however, a parapet wall, then yes details always called for heavy gauge polyvinyl or (back then) fiberglass reinforced bitumen impregnated copper-clad fabric flashing laid into the the bed joint just under the rowlock. The flashing was held short of the edges by1/2". Those were the standard details on schools, prisons, etc.

Interestingly, weeps were never called for in this detail, which actually makes sense. Remember, unlike a window sill, this is solid masonry (no cavity), so a weep would not do much.

A pitch on a rowlock top was not called for back then and could tend to look bad if both sides are exposed.

Hope that is helpful.

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Here is a photo of the detail in question. Their are a number of issues with this set up: lack of slope, no flashing, no weeps, engineered trim installed against masonry, drip cap caulked to siding,...I did finally find something in the Brick tech notes #7 and it appears to be the same as a window sill.

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Keep in mind that rowlock performance depends on type, slope, and flashing depends on the material.

I routinely find rowlocks >100 years old that are worn, but still functional. Some stuff works differently than other stuff.

If there's a through wall flashing, it's got to be through the wall. That's the only way one can determine if there are end dams, and the only way for end dams to work, for without end dams, no window or door flashing does anything, regardless of wicks or weeps.

We should all get familiar with the idea of "pans". Without the pan, flashing doesn't really do anything in particular.

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