Tim H

Same thing I wondered when I saw this. Wouldn't it have been easier to just fix or remove the 'skylights'? Click to Enlarge 54 KB And, of course, proper installation of interior gutters will buy you some time on the roof repairs. Click to Enlarge 33.88 KB And they're not even on the same house. Never a dull moment in the Heart of Dixie. Tim

Yep, there is likely an area in the center of the oxidation where the plating has worn/burnt through to the base metal. Once that happens, it's on. Tim

Wow, I thought you had the best HI website that I had ever seen (before). It's even better now. Definitely a benchmark. Tim

I cant figure out what color tie goes with rat crap, 50 yr. old insulation, mud, blood and sweat. I get filthy during most inspections, and wearing a tie in a 140 degree attic wouldnt be prudent from a breathing standpoint (and belly crawling on a tie pin would hurt like hell). Like Kurt, I prefer tech clothing (lots of pockets so I dont have to tote a tool bag/belt), and in the summer I will go through at least two shirts per inspection. It seems to work for Mark, but I am just a sweaty dirt magnet, and a filthy wet tie wouldnt be too attractive, IMO. Heck, If I wore a tie in the summer (with my shorts) I would look like an English schoolboy (or an aging rock star). Tim

I use a brick trowel. I slide it under the shingle and lift carefully. It gives me more surface area to support the shingle and it cuts down on cracked shingles. Tim

This is not in response to Kevin, who I find to be very credible, but everyone that I am aware of who has laid out the bucks for an IR camera claims that it has increased their revenue and improved the quality of their inspections (including the three local guys who went out of business this year). It is going to be hard to find a guy to admit that laying out that kind of money was a mistake.. Jess sayin Tim

He may be that, but I attended his HI school and it was a complete waste of time. 60 odd hours of how to be a toady. If I knew then what I know now, I would have demanded a refund after the first hour.

I was thinking the same thing. I love my edition, no complaints...but that looks pretty cool. Tim

The books that seem to stay on my desk are Hansen's book (the most frequently referenced book that I have ever owned), the "NRCA Roofing and Waterproofing Manual", "Residential and Light Commercial Construction Standards", "The Gregg Reference Manual", and "The Elements of Style". And.... what Mike said. Tim

Yes, Darrens is pretty good. Better than the one I used to use. Thanks Darren. Tim

I hate to see that (if that's the case). Don't always like his style, but he does have one. That's worth something, IMO. So it goes.

[quote]Originally posted by John Bubber Wet/leaky basements. MOST importantly one needs to correctly IDENTIFY how/where the water is getting in.FIND the actual problem(s). Say again whether some want to believe it or not,adding SOIL has not, does not identify the problem(s),doesn`t fix/repair anything. Some HI`s concur, least for the most part. http://www.nachi.org/forum/f23/somethin ... dex28.html Judging from the tone and content of your post in the above link, I think you will be much happier if you stay over there. Birds of a feather and stuff...KOKO. Tim

Stewart Littles doorway? This was in an interior wall of a 90's rancher. It just opens into the stud bay. Nothing else in there. It was a foreclosure so I couldn't ask the seller what was going on Click to Enlarge 34.49 KB. Tim

I didn't notice that. I see what looks like insulated neutral feeders going to each 200-amp panel, but I don't see where they originate.??? - Jim Katen, Oregon I think the little yellow wire is for the interior control panel. Tim

There are two 200 amp panels being fed by a switch box for a to-be-installed-later generator. Should either, neither or both panels have the ground and neutral terminal bars bonded? Both panels are currently bonded, and both feed 125 amp panels that have the neutrals and grounds isolated. I think it is right, but would appreciate some opinions. Download Attachment: 05-02-2009 033.jpg 46.34 KB Download Attachment: 05-02-2009 034.jpg 52.81 KB Download Attachment: 05-02-2009 035.jpg 54.92 KB Download Attachment: 05-02-2009 036.jpg 52.92 KB Thanks, Tim

These guys coulda used a better line of cat defense. There were at least 25 tails down there. Click to Enlarge 35.01 KB Click to Enlarge 33.37 KB

Your memory serves you well. 2006 IRC G2427.6.4 (503.6.4) Gas vent termination. A gas vent shall terminate in accordance with one of the following: 1. Gas vents that are 12 inches (305 mm) or less in size and located not less than 8 feet (2438 mm) from a vertical wall or similar obstruction shall terminate above the roof in accordance with Figure G2427.6.4. 2. Gas vents that are over 12 inches (305 mm) in size or are located less than 8 feet (2438 mm) from a vertical wall or similar obstruction shall terminate not less than 2 feet (610 mm) above the highest point where they pass through the roof and not less than 2 feet (610 mm) above any portion of a building within 10 feet (3048 mm) horizontally. Tim

Before I targeted agents, I would do something like drive around (or use the intergore), get the addresses for listed houses, write a nice bit about yourself and the value of a listing inspection, drop a couple of cards in the envelope, and mail to the seller. I think that you would get just as many leads doing something along those lines as you would if you target reeltors. Another note; think long term. Don't market a listing inspection as replacing the need for the buyer to have their own inspection. Not only does it potentially reduce the number of inspections out there, it does not serve the best interests of the home buying public. A buyer needs to have their own inspection performed by their own inspector. There are plenty of good reasons for a seller to have an inspection performed. Eliminating a buyers inspection is not one of them. Tim

The bottom line here is when there are yellow pine or other sap wood species floor structures in a crawl which has been very wet for an extended period; drying this crawl down is very likely to result in differential downward movement as the wood structures dry & shrink. This is more at the beams! id="black"> The crawlpace I was concerned with had not been "very wet".id="blue"> This is the second time I have heard this (not completely covering on purpose). Sounds like folklore to me. Anyone ever heard this?id="blue"> It's making a lot of sense to me!id="black"> Still makes no sense to me to install a barrier incorrectly. If the decision has been made to install one (after considering the relevant factors), it needs to be done right. id="blue"> 100% coverage is optimal not necessary in most situations. Several other people down the thread have affirmed this logical statement.Keep things in perspective & call it a ground moisture barrier.id="black"> I'm sorry, but I don't see it that way. To say that an optimal installation is not necessary in 'most' situations is not all that logical. If a detail were not necessary, it wouldn't be optimal; it would be extraneous. What difference would it make to call it a ground moisture barrier rather than a crawlspace vapor barrier? What is the difference in perspective?id="blue"> Timid="blue">

Mike, The statement is reworked boiler plate from Inspect Express. I shortened it and verified it for accuracy, using multiple sources. I understand that you helped with this software, so it is more than likely your statement. Tim

Thanks for responding, Walter, Well, sure. First, there's the decision regarding whether or not the crawl needs a plastic cover at all. A hundred-year-old house that was built before poly sheeting existed could be just fine without the cover. I've seen hundreds of such houses. They needed nothing.id="blue"> I have seen the same thing hundreds of times. I was reporting on a particular house that had recently had a barrier installed. I was trying to describe how to correct it. The decision to install a barrier had already been made. As noted in other posts, there are many ways to skin the poly cat, so to speak. One need not specify a color for the poly, nor a given thickness.id="blue"> I agree that I should not have described a color (and do not any longer), but I still report that 6 mil is the minimum thickness that should be used. I can cite sources, but it is really common sense that anything thinner won't have the puncture resistence needed to withstand things like inspectors crawling around on the barrier. Your description contains a glaring logic flaw: "The vapor barrier in the crawlspace is inadequate, as it doesn't cover 100% of the soil under the home." If you're going to use an absolute such as "inadequate," you should cite one or more reputable sources. Sooner or later, you'll run into somebody who'll challenge your recommendations. Failure to cover the whole crawl doesn't mean the barrier is "inadequate;" nor does it mean that the crawl needs a poly barrier "immediately." That's hyperbole. Pardon my saying so, but that's where the text starts sounding like a sales job. "Crawl space plastic half-price if you buy today!"id="blue"> Failure to cover the entire crawl is inadequate per recommendations found at buildingscience.com (and others). It is also illogical to think that a barrier does not have to have complete coverage. Without complete coverage it can not be a barrier. Per Webster a barrier is something material that blocks or is intended to block passage. Cant do that if you dont have complete coverage. If I reported the same thing now, I would likely state something like "the barrier is not installed in accordance with recommedations made by xyz.....". Immediately was another poor word choice, and I am not sure why I included it (It wasn't an attempt to take advantage of anyone, as you implied). I certainly don't agree that calling an improperly installed barrier inadequate is a "glaring flaw in logic" (if it is, a couple of thousand people read it and didn't notice. Not saying it wasn't a logical flaw, but 'glaring' is hyperbole). In my opinion it is not as glaring a flaw in logic as saying someone "sounds like a guy trying to get himself hired for a Larry-Daryl-and-Daryl job", based on the fact that the guy descibed a method for installing a vapor barrier differently than you would have described it . Pardon my saying so, but that's where the text starts sounding like a sales job. "Crawl space plastic half-price if you buy today!"id="blue"> Quite an inference for someone so devoted to the rules of logic. Just so you know, I am not a thief, I am not a con artist and I am not some backwards assed Larry, Darly and Daryl looking to take advantage of people. I am also not someone who publicly implies such things about others based on such a paucity of information. Home training and stuff. You use another absolute: the sheeting "must be applied from wall to wall," etc. There are lots of ways to seal up a crawl space. If you think the method you describe is the only way to seal a crawl space, you'd better be ready to cite reputable sources.id="blue"> Again, I am using recommendations that can be found at the web site you cited below. Building science.com (among others) recommends a continuous barrier mechanicaly attached to the walls and sealed at the penetrations. Are you recommending unreliable sources? As an aside, how do you seal a crawlspace without going wall to wall? This MUST be done. The rest of the description illustrates what is ideal and what should be done. Not absolutes. A proper vapor barrier consists of black, 6-mil polyethylene sheeting and must be applied from wall to wall of the foundation. It should cap the footer and lay tightly against the sidewalls, overlapping at least a foot at all adjoining sheets and be tightly sealed around the base of support piers. Ideally, the barrier is secured to the foundation walls, and overlaps at adjoining sheets are sealed with waterproof tape. Additionally, the barrier should be applied with some slack so that it can float free without separating and still inhibit evaporation if minor flooding occurs. In short, you get in way over your head by dictating certain materials and methods, and telling your reader that there's only one way to seal up a crawl -- and it's your way. By citing no reputable sources, you take on all of the responsibility for the materials and methods, and how they'll perform in the future. In short, I would agree. But why do you assume that I could not or did not cite reputable sources? I only posted a small section of the report. No offense to bug men, but taken as a breed, they are as full of folklore as home inspectors. Where does this info come from? Is the guy who taught you this educated? What are his credentials? What are his sources?id="blue"> That is why I didn't believe the bug man and came hear to see if my doubts were well founded. I had no confidence in the bug mans info, so I didnt really look into his sources. My doubt as to the veracity of his information prompted my original question. My humble suggestion: Verify your statements and be ready to cite sources. You might want to take a look at www.buildingscien ce.comid="blue"> Again, I am not sure why you assume that I can't cite sources. I wasn't seeking advice on how to properly cover a crawl, or even whether or not this house needed a barrier. I was looking for feedback on the 'new barrier/old house/ wood shrinkage thingy. I look at buildingscience.com frequently. Thanks. Tim

Well, that most likely means folklore. HI "trainers," taken as a breed, are folklore geysers. The italicized "info" in the original post sounds like a guy trying to get himself hired for a Larry-Daryl-and-Daryl job. FWIW, having crawled a few thousand crawl spaces in Middle Tennessee, I can say that many were 100% dirt, and quite a few were dusty dry. House ages ranged from 100+ years old to newish. Most had no problems. The ones with problems were the newish houses with "positive drains, " which of course routed water to the foundation walls. Do these folklorists ever walk into a bookstore? WJ This info from the original post? The vapor barrier in the crawlspace is inadequate, as it doesn't cover 100% of the soil under the home. I recommend that this be corrected immediately. This is important because the barrier limits the amount of moisture that can evaporate out of the soil into the crawlspace. A proper vapor barrier consists of black, 6-mil polyethylene sheeting and must be applied from wall to wall of the foundation. It should cap the footer and lay tightly against the sidewalls, overlapping at least a foot at all adjoining sheets and be tightly sealed around the base of support piers. Ideally, the barrier is secured to the foundation walls, and overlaps at adjoining sheets are sealed with waterproof tape. Additionally, the barrier should be applied with some slack so that it can float free without separating and still inhibit evaporation if minor flooding occurs. If so, I am not really sure what you mean by "sounds like a guy trying to get himself hired for a Larry-Daryl-and-Daryl job". I was describing the proper way to install a barrier. There is obviously some legitimate debate regarding the necessity for barriers, but is there any doubt about the correct way to install one? Tim

On the other hand, I have inspected crawls of all ages that had no barriers/improper barriers installed, that have had siginficant moisture related issues. I have found that the environments of crawlspaces that are not properly capped by barriers are extermely hard on ductwork, air handler cabinets and furnaces. One thing I have yet to see is a non plumbing related moisture issue in a crawl with a properly installed barrier. Tim

I have never seen this before and I can't figure out what they were trying to accomplish. Any ideas? Thanks-Tim Click to View 38.57 KB

I believe that Jerry's comment about current in the chimney was a humorous reference to another, recurring, thread about blackening of copper pipe and whether or not it has to do with current in the pipe. - Jim Katen, Oregon Thanks Jim, I was beginning to wonder if my question was just too dumb to be answered. I guess it was. Whole thing went right over my head.