Kyle Kubs

Now the UL listing is still pending on these babies so don't run right out to the garbage depot to get your own yet. Download Attachment: 017.jpg 652.19 KB Download Attachment: 018.jpg 800.74 KB What I really found interesting was the ones that were taped over only had the two slots punch through, not the ground. I'm pretty sure this was a xmas light rig, but it was still pretty comical.

I see these so rarely I can educate myself on them and then forget it all by the next time I come to one. 1) I make this material to be torch down Modified Bitumen? 2) Normal life span is around 25-30 years? This one was still quite soft underfoot and the alligatoring was there but not at all heavy so I'm guessing it is around 5-10 years in age. 3) Now the real question. Where it meets the ridge of the shingled roof I would expect it to overlap the ridge, not be under it the way it is. I figured maybe they did that and then put the ridge shingles over it to hide it but when I lifted the ridge shingles it wasn't visible. Is this wrong? Download Attachment: 020.jpg 846.02 KB Download Attachment: 021.jpg 834.18 KB Download Attachment: 026.jpg 671.78 KB

Thats it exactly - only addition I make to mine is one of those hard rubber bungies, about 21" long, around the ladder and clipped to the gutter on both sides. Holds the ladder to the roof so well you can lean on it as you come down, so long as the gutter is attached well...

My foot tried to take out the butt end of a log while riding. My leg (mostly ankle) lost the battle, turned a 180 to check out what had hit it, and the rest of me and the bike continued onward. My buddies keep joking that they are going to buy my soon to be son one of the clear bubbles, since he will most likely end up like me. Ouch! [:-bigeyes I mean, seriously, holy freakin ouch! I thought I had done that to my knee once while riding. Wiped out (long story) and wound up on my stomach with the bike over my lower leg and my foot hooked in the wheel. When I looked back to see how to free myself, I saw the kneecap portion of my knee/shin guards facing up [:-bigeyes I couldn't see it but assumed my foot was doing the same thing... After I got over that feeling like all the blood had just drained from my body, I reached back and saw it was the just the knee guard that spun around from the impact with a small tree stump. I was quite relieved since I was miles into the woods in the mountains and couldn't imagine how they were going to get a medivac chopper in there for me. You may want to let someone else do that roof walk for you... No one could blame you with an injury like that.

"I've done it a gazillion times without incident." So did I, right up until the day the ladder slipped as I got back on it [:-bigeyes and I took the fast way down. I don't do that anymore. I'd do what Mike suggest. Not having a second person, and not wanting to rely on anyone's strength or attention span, I'd put a 2x4 accross the inside of the door, as high up as possible and tie the ladder to it nice and tight. I use ratcheting tie down straps.

Careful not to mix opinion with actual requirements. R905.2.2 Slope. Asphalt shingles shall only be used on roof slopes of two units vertical in 12 units horizontal (2:12) or greater. For roof slopes from two units vertical in 12 units horizontal (2:12) up to four units vertical in 12 units horizontal (4:12), double underlayment application is required in accordance with Section R905.2.7. While I don't disagree that 2:12 is a very low slope where shingles are concerned, it is allowed and with just two layers of felt. Of course IWS would be better but we are not the guy''s making up the regulations...

Dam! Ugly isn't saying enough. Must have got a free bowl of soup for buying those...[]

I've been thinking about doing the same thing in regards to idiot codes bubba's. But where to start? And then again it's not always their fault when they are given an insane case load and told to pull it off or be replaced.

Ya know, I've seen a few installations like that recently. So many joints in it they might as well have used Copper... Remember when the whole point of PEX was to have piping with as few joints as possible? Despite that, I don't see a lot of this stuff at all. Either it's just not very popular in my area or my kind of clients aren't buying those kind of houses. And I don't mind at all.

At that age, likely not a TPR valve but a PR valve. There is a web site, www.waterheaterrescue.com hosted by a great guy, Larry Weingarten, who has a love of old water heaters and maybe the biggest collection of water heaters since the time when they were a vessel that you poured water in the top and put a couple chunks of coal underneath. If anyone would know about the really old one's... He also sells a DVD video of a tour through the ages of water heater history, not real expensive and worth every penny if your into mechanical stuff. Maybe we can get him to poke his head in here once in a while...

Jim, Thanks for the contribution. Quick question. Albeit just a little bit, I am surprised to see Murry lumped in there with the others. Now, I agree, it's a low grade panel (I'm probably being more nice then I should) and I even have a couple breakers in my basement waiting for an overload test before I break them apart to take pictures of the arcing damage they show at the stab terminal, but is this a really wide spread thing with them? I just haven't had my hands on that many of them. What are some of the key factors putting them in with the ranks of FPE & Zinsco? Thanks again for the info.

Now that's just downright stupid.

Are you talking about potable water or PEX for radiant heating?

Great place to hang wet rags so they don't mess up the bottom of your cabinet...

I've been heating my house predominately with wood from a non epa wood burning stove for the past several years. Once I get it dialed in you don't see anything but a clear heat mirage coming off the top of my chimney stack. It's not the act of woodburning itself, it's like many things where the people doing it have no idea about the science or method of a good fire. Take the best stove out there and put an idiot in front of it with a half damp 8" diameter log and a couple firestarter bricks and I assure you there will be smoke. Do a google search on Finish heaters and you will have a lot to learn. I read an article years ago that showed where they were proven to burn wood and emit less CO2 then if the same wood had decayed on the forest floor. If I'm not mistaken it was a gentlemen in WA that lead the charge to get them approved in his area. One of those smog controlled places.

I concur. F****d. (but I used the appropriate amount of little * thingies)[:-bigmout Any pictures from the interior/exterior? I'm afraid for that beam...

I know a few electricians who use it on Copper mains as well just to have the lubrication between the lug screw and the wire while tightening. They say it prevents the screw from tearing up the wire. Sounds reasonable... I've heard it called all manner of things from anti oxidant to oxide inhibitor and even monkey shit. The latter term of endearment belonging to a specific brand, Penetrox, which looks and smells close enough. Also one of the best products IMHO, one of the few that won't burn readily and support a flame.

Hey John, From the date of build, mid 60's it would be unlikely to be Tinned Copper. Remember the recent thread about Tinned Copper? Did it have a rubberized woven cloth insulation or thermoplastic? Don't know about more or less pliable but be careful testing such a thing when you suspect Aluminum, especially in anything early 60's as the Alum. from that era was quite brittle.

I used to do that too, I don't anymore. The only exceptions will be long circuits that would suffer a high voltage drop with #14 wire or circuits that I just want to be 20 amp. cause I know I will be using high draw power tools on them. Reasons not too... On the lighter side. Compared to #14, 12 is a bitch to work with so far as bending and fitting into boxes without tearing up the insulation. On the other side. There are limits on box fill for a given size conductor. Ergo, you have to use bigger boxes for almost everything. Especially when you get into all the fancy type, multi pole switches and such that we use today, they're not your fathers plain old toggle switch anymore. In many cases it is just totally ridiculous overkill to use #12 on lighting and receptacles that in the end are likely to be powering an alarm clock and a couple 60w bulbs, pulling 2-3 amps. max at any one time. In most cases where there will be known heavier loads on circuits, the NEC already requires them to be 20 amp. circuits (Kitchen small appliance receptacles...) In places where 15 amp. circuits are allowed they are, for the most part totally fine and not in any way (IMHO) below par. Look at the actual ratings for the wire itself and you see they are quite a bit higher then the allowed overcurrent protection. The NEC has already built in several "buffers". My opinion, worth every dime you paid for it.

Series arcs are a little trickier to diagnose because tripping a switch or the brushes on a commutator both create series arcs. Exactly! And the old motors create really cool ones as they wear. When I was a kid I used to play around with the brushes on old motors and increase the distance from the commutator just to see the light show it would put on. Yes, I had a strange childhood, don't ask. - Just look into the air vents of any of those old, armor plated, 50 Lb. black and decker drills as they run, you'll see what Chad is talking about. I think this is probably the real reason they started out only in bedrooms, no motor circuits to cause constant tripping.

In this case I'd say you are likely correct but be careful using the diameter of the conductor. There are SE cables that have the stranded conductors compressed to reduce their cross section. If you look at a cut section from the end, the material deforms into all the voids that are normally between the round strands. The outside diameter is now reduced but it retains it's 2/0, 4/0... rating.

Thanks Kurt. Yes there were lintels. Poorly installed like everything else, some painted, some not, most installed pretty much flush with the face of the brick so there is no hope of keeping the joint sealed and no, no flashing of any kind, no weeps anywhere... Top of Garage Doors Download Attachment: DSCN2021.JPG 947.99 KB Well the second picture doesn't show it very well but the trim around the windows is EIFS style trim with styrofoam behind it and the field of the wall is all modern hardcoat. Should there be an expansion joint/control joint between them? I really hate new houses.

That was pretty much my feeling when I looked at it. "I'd want to see sills, drip caps, thru wall flashing, end dams, wicks, and some semblance of an architectural design/detail that diverted water around the opening. Could be lots of things, but it looks like there's not anything." I figured, and was hoping, you'd be the first one to reply. Such detailing involving brickwork is definitely on my list of things I need to improve on. Anything you could point me to that would show me what it should look like?

Ok, obviously these windows are not sealed properly but what kind of detailing would you expect to see here? Just caulking? Some kind of casing bead to terminate the brick and then Caulk? Click to Enlarge 55.77 KB Also, does EIFS type trim around the windows and door need to have a control joint between it and the hardcoat? Click to Enlarge 45.07 KB This is a $1.1 Mil McMansion with every shortcut under the sun hangin in the breeze. Some of the more obvious hardcoat stucco errors. Download Attachment: DSCN1996.JPG 959.46 KB Download Attachment: DSCN2002.JPG 878.03 KB Download Attachment: DSCN2013.JPG 1063.33 KB Download Attachment: DSCN2016.JPG 894.31 KB

I'm still trying to wrap my pea brain around this. Say the ungrounded conductor shorts to the grounded conductor. The grounded conductor is attached to the neutral terminal bar, so power can return to that bar. You won't get a 240 v. reading, because you've only got power to one leg. Wouldn't current travel back on the neutral and give that reading? You've just explained a normally functioning circuit.. I think what dnoel said has merit. It would explain how there is current on the ground but the breaker doesn't trip. Probably one of those really fine quality $0.59 receptacles with a crack in just the right place. I do my run through the rooms checking outlets and such last, sometimes this is the problem with that lineup, you run into something like this and you want to pull the cover and check it out but, it's always one where you've been there 4 1/2 freagin hours already and you just don't care anymore.