tbird

Click http://opalcat.com/Information/swamp-coolers for swamp cooler explanation. They cool by evaporation. Ex: When you get out of the shower, you feel cold due to the evaporation of the water. Of course, these only work good in dry climates due to the fact that they add humidity to the air.

That ain't no stinkin A/C. That's a evaporative (swamp) cooler my friend. They are not very heavy.

15 minutes for the inspection, 15 minutes for the report, 15 minutes for the trip there and 15 minutes back. 1 hour for $50? Not including vehicle fuel and wear and tear. It wouldn't be enough. It would not be enough for what Carl? It added up to over $1400 last year which is enough for a lot of things. If I were to charge more the home owner would not be saving any money on their policy so there would be no point in me doing the insepection. Besides I usually have 2 -3 weeks in which I can schedule the appoitment so it helps fill in the slow days. I can see using it for filler material, but not in place of my real focus, home inspections. The reason I have not branched out into other types of work is because the more diversified you get, the less of an expert you are. Consider this: It takes at least $75 for a HVAC tech, plumber, or electrician to even show up to your door. That is why I thought $50 is too low. Of course, it depends on what part of the country you are in. I'm not going into business economics, but everybody's base hourly rates are different than others (just call around). For me, I would rather not do the job than sell myself short.

15 minutes for the inspection, 15 minutes for the report, 15 minutes for the trip there and 15 minutes back. 1 hour for $50? Not including vehicle fuel and wear and tear. It wouldn't be enough.

I was tilted when taking the pictures. The date on the unit is a 1998. Thanks

The coils and pan sit low (see the condensate line on the first picture, right side). Sorry, I thougth I took a picture of the actual exhaust outlet but I cannot find it. It is only a metal shield over the exhaust opening. Kind of like this =]

Hey Mike, I don't think that is the case. All the rust appears to be on the outside of the housing only. Would a damaged heat exhanger cause this? It could just be a rusting exhaust cover streaking down the unit?

I ran into this today. It is a roof mount gas pack (bundled gas heater and A/C in one unit). There was considerable condensation coming from the exhaust area. The condensation was either rusty or the unit is rusting, I am not positive which was which. Is this an indicator of anything? I have seen slight rust before, but not this much. 80% effecient, low humidity on average (10-20%). Thanks for your help. Image Insert: 97.9 KB Image Insert: 57.96 KB

I used to have a big bad truck, 4X4, 4 doors, big bed and a thristy V8 - for what? Rarely used 4x4, only to get me out of stupid situations. I find that I, my tools, equipment and LG ladder fit fine into a 2003 Chevy Impala SS. Just put the back seat down and slide the ladder through the trunk. Nice and sporty looking, gets decent gas mileage and puts many of the passenger car suped up rockets to shame. Image Insert: 9.15 KB

Asko(Swedish) or Bosch(German) are good brands with good track records. Of course, they are a little more expensive. I am of the mindset that you get what you pay for! (finished goods, of course)

Each one is there to hold 4 steak knives vertically. I knew it!! Thanks Joe for the "quote". This is the first time I have ever run into this.

Has anyone ever seen this. A 1978 home with two outlets installed in the kitchen countertop facing up. Besides the risk of spills and wet rags, is there anything else I should know about? Image Insert: 38.72 KB

I have never known a weatherman to get fired for not being accurate. Just plenty of excuses.

Once the cost and sizes become manageable, then it may take off. With most people staying an average of 5 years in a home, cost to savings benefit may just not be there.

Being in the appliance business in a previous life, I have never run across this. All the specs that I quickly ran through online do not show front clearances. IMO, if the door will fully open, there is enough clearance. It may not be useful and look stupid, but it is enough clearance.

One thing is for sure - windows do not create moisture. The rate that they will condense moist air into moisture is dependant upon many variables. Many people quickly blame windows but overlook the obvious such as long hot showers, cooking, etc that create humidity - yet they will not turn on exhaust fans or exhange the air. My sister rented an older frame home with plaster interior walls. In the cold winter, moisture condensed on the plaster and ran down the interior of the walls. When I was employed by a window distributor, there were many times that people would blame the windows for condensation. We had a 2 page write up explaining how and what causes condensation.

I just hold a lighter next to the fittings and see if there is any flame jumps or movements. Just kidding. When I used to install appliances, an older man who I was working with at the time used to do it this way. I always made sure I was outside when he did that!

I saw this yesterday, did a double take. The bathroom above this was recently remodeled. Bubba decided it was easier to tap into a 70amp wire feed from the main for the sub to get power for his bathroom remodel rather than to run a new circuit. The seller tells me that his friend, who is an electrician did this (also got a permit) and that this is okay!?! Who woulda thunk wiring 101 was this easy!?! This same seller told be that the house has been re-plumbed with copper. I told him that only .05% had been re-plumbed and he walked off and mumbled something about a stupid plumber. Image Insert: 96.2 KB

It may be the septic system tank or cover!

"Basements", what are those? Very few homes here have basements. Just scratch the surface, poor your footers, slab and away you go! I can remember, in the last four years of inspections, of finding just a couple older houses without having the disconnects outside. In fact, all older homes with new upgraded panels have the disconnects outside. It's just the way it is done here.

That was the exact feedback I have gotten from other local inspectors. This is why I ask. I usually sweep it aside and quickly go in.

When you see this at the entry of the crawlspace, what do you do? Just curious on your thoughts. Do you sweep it away? Do you note in the report that you did not enter due to poisonous spiders? Do you keep bug spray with you and enter later? What do you do? Image Insert: 59.79 KB

It is done like that here all the time. The cord also doubles as a disconnect. I see nothing wrong with using a cord and plug, providing it is rated to carry the amperage and is installed correctly.

Thanks for all your responses. I see my err. I will be more concise from know on. Does anybody have a sample liability waiver you have them sign when you sign the check? Do you ask for their copy of the inspection report?

I am going to find out more monday. By the way, do you think I should go take a look at what she is talking about? The wording is passive, but it is in red coloring. The legend of my report states that anything in red needs to be addressed immediately by a licensed professional. Thanks for your input