mgbinspect

I have to admit that when I read Chad's initial response, I paused for a second on "tilt" thinking, "Hmm. Chad must not be feeling well... or.. Maybe it's turning 50?" [:-party]

Hey Charlie, If I see that a truss has been modified, that's what I state in a little canned sentence. If it doesn't look like all the tension or compression has been properly transferred, then I might say a bit more. In a case such as the one you describe, where a portion of a truss was cut away, I'd probably call for it to be repaired. I've seen quite a few "What the heck" modifications, but I don't think I've ever actually seen an obvious "Oh my God" modification. Usually, after I imagine all the possible stresses, I come to the conclusion, "well, alright, it'll work". I guess trusses have a pretty easy life and if one is screwed up the others just work a bit harder... For instance, I saw one recently where I assume the metal gusset plate at the top had either come loose or was damaged, so they fashioned and applied their own OSB gusset plate. In my mind it was no big deal, the added gusset plate offered an attachment surface of maybe 14" in all directions. When I was a kid, it was actually permissible to make your own trusses and one merely had to get the design approved by the building department. I've actually watched them made in the field, but somewhere along the way that was stopped. They always used plywood gusset plates, which made them look very much like a steel bridge truss - a beautiful thing... I do always write a "yeah, I saw it" statement, but it seems to me that in most instances, with things such as modified trusses, we are more calling out an obvious variation from a standard trade practice that has a rather remote possibility of being or becoming a real structure threatening condition. One of my BIG pet peeves, is seeing inspectors call for an engineer to get involved over just about everything, which to me is ridiculous and can become a real pain in the ass. For instance, I was called out by a listing agent once to throw water on a fire: The floor system was OSB engineered floor trusses. Lengths of cut truss had been used as blocking between the trusses along the length of the beam. A plumber had knocked one of them askew to accommodate his pipe. A local fellow home inspector had called for the buyers to consult with an engineer to prescribe a remedy. I mean, c'mon now... use your head... when the blocking was in place, it was approved, notch the damn thing and put it back in place. Why in the world involve an engineer? In my mind that was just plain stupid and created a @hitload of unnecessary strife. The seller didn't want to pay for an engineer and the buyer was insisting on it. The inspector should have just put on some "big boy" pants and made a decision rather than farm out the obvious to an engineer. It's best for all concerned to avoid calling for an engineer unless an engineer's mind and calculations are actually needed.

The gypsum looks completely expanded (blown out) - no longer dense. That's my bet - a reaction. I've dealt with a ton of water damage, and it usually not only shows stains, but would not typically be so isolated and defined. It seems to outline be where the pipe contacts. I'm no rocket scientist, but there are seversal possible players in the scenario, if it is a reaction: the gysum, which I believe is basic; the copper, possibly excessive flux and heat (an accelerator?). The materials apparently don't like each other. And, if it's as hot as you say it is, I'd definitely urge the home owners to stop ignoring it. Good luck, Robert. MIke

The ultimate reaction between a hot copper pipe and Cinese drywall? - throwing it out in total ignorance... Unfortunately, I have no other thoughts.. but I'm quite interested to see what the brain trust comes up with. Good luck! As a matter of fact, looking at the composition of the material around the hole, it hardly resembles drywall anymore. It looks to me like a chemical reaction between the copper and the gypsum.

Hmmm... well, I wonder if that pipe has taken a nail, which will seal in a copper pipe quite nicely. Often at first they don't leak at all, but eventually begin to seep and then become a fine constant spray. It's another one of those now and then disaster restoration happenings. They can take years to actually leak significantly. Of course, you'd get a high reading with a moisture meter if that is the case. How'd things look below?

I'm afraid I can't help you with the actual slate, although when still doing disaster restoration contracting I had to deal with all this. I left materials identification up to my roofers. A lot of beautiful slate comes from Pennsylvania, but I believe you'd see some greenish slates as well in the mix. There is a lot of slate roofing in Richmond, but very few good roofers familiar with the old school methods of repair. Here's a slate replacement tip that one of my really old and respected roofers taught me: Avoid slate replacement with the use of metal clips, which is a rather unsightly and temporary fix, since the turned over hook portion of the clip that holds the bottom of the new slate in place eventually rusts away releasing the slate. The proper way to replace slates is by nail and bib. The new nails and holes actually line up with the gap between the slates above. Then, a copper bib with diagonal cuts (points turned downward and down slope to grip the slates) is slid under the upper slates to cover (bib) the nail heads. When the copper turns, the bib blends in quite well with the slates to virtually disappear. This is the Cadillac replacement method, which is quite permanent, and most roofers don't do it. If a roofer insists upon this method, you know he's your man. Mike

Tom, the thing that had me connecting the condensation and the lack of caulk was that the condensation was only occurring along the outside edges of the panes, which I attributed to cold drafts making the glass surface pretty chilly. It was a pretty cold day and the surfaces around the windows were cold. And, it only occurred at the windows replaced on the main front of the home, where they were installed within brick veneer openings without any caulk - pretty big gaps too... Of course, I've always understood that water is a bi-product of fossil fuel exhaust, but I just never logically connected the dots. And, in looking back over 16 years of seminars and conventions attended as a vendor and inspector (maybe 55 of them?), I don't recall any speaker ever teeing up the possibility either. It'll be consideration #1 now, though. Good stuff.

That's what I'm talking about! An aluminum 13' extension ladder is rediculously light (like maybe 15 lbs.) and sets up in about 3 seconds. Like, Marc, I have a 2' and 6' step and my 13' and 24' extensions. I mean, if I used a folding ladders, I wouldn't be able to do three inspections in a day either... []

My first thought is that the new system isn't venting combustion byproducts properly to the exterior. I can't count how many times I've found improperly vented gas appliances have been the cause of major moisture condensing. Man, what a perfectly logical and sobering thought, which I hate to admit has never automatically come to mind and should. Brilliant! I did a home a couple of weeks ago with relatively new insulated glass windows. All the ones on the front of the house had excessive condensation because the installer never caulked around any of the windows within the brick veneer openings. But, I never really gave a thought to the source of the moisture beyond normal stuff like cooking and showers. (I honestly don't recall now if it even had gas equipment.) Nonetheless, that's good thinking, Bill, which I will file away as an automatic top consideration with a sub-conscious red flag attached to it, for the future.... I love TIJ!...

Bain! EXCELLENT! Now that's gold! I had no idea. Sweet! I'm pretty good with HVAC (maybe a C+ or a B-), but difinitely no Einstein. I've actually toyed with the idea of going to night school and taking the courses necessary to become a tech, just for the brainfood, not the trade. Thanks Bain and Marc. Good stuff...

Cool! That's what I needed to dismiss the "30". That's the nifty trick I needed. Thanks Marc! [^] (The really scary part is maybe I knew that once and am going senile...) [:-weepn] Brace yourself, Chad, memory starts going bit by bit down hill soon after 50... it's a bit freaky...

Yup, I know that Marc, Here's my source of confusion: I'm under the impression that 18,000 BTU/hr is 1.5 tons; 30,000BTU/hrs is 2.5 tons; 42,000 BTU/hrs is 3.5 tons. Just before the "036" is a "30". That's where I get stuck, so if the BTU rating ALWAYS has a "0" before it, I suppose I have my answer. Is that how to know which multiple to choose - a "0" before? This was on a 2900 SF home.

Yeah, I know that Terry. It's when you have two possible right answers like this one, that throws me. Is it 2.5 tons or 3 tons? It seems, of late, I've had a run of these where you look at it and think, "Well darn! Which is it?" is there some nifty little rule to deciphering one like this?

Here is a label on a Janatrol Condensing unit. When I see two possible multiples of six or twelve, I'm never certain which is the actual BTU info. Is there a rule as to how the numbers are ordered? Is this 2.5 tons or 3 tons? I always assume the first multiple is probably right, so I would guess 2.5 tons. But, if there's a sure-fire trick to this that I've never been taught, I'd sure love to hear of it. So, once again I tee up a question to learn from the brain trust. School me! Thanks in advance. Click to Enlarge 49.59 KB

I'm reminded of the old guy from the Monty Pithon Show that told of his most recent birthday. When the cast asked him, "Well, did you blow out the candles?" he replied, "I tried to but the heat drove me back." [:-jump]

As I waited for the page to load on my phone, various scenarios were whizzing through my head regarding what kinda juicy bait was on the end of this hook - and can I resist the temptation to leave proof that I took the bait. Nice one Jim, you're funny. Hey Chad, Happy Birthday Brother! And a bunch more on top of this one. I'm shooting for 120 myself. Why not? Enjoy the day...

That's a nice detail for surface mounted flashing with a nice lip for sealant. Looks great and I could live with that! Most of what I'm used to seeing is merely the cut edge of copper or aluminum with sealant applied to the junction. I have no problem at all with the detail you've posted a link to - an equally beautiful thing. And, now that you have brought that particular detail up, I have seen it in some of our larger projects - something large enough to have an architect involved. I've never seen such a nicely designed surface mounted flashing on a home.

Well, you West Coasters are blessed then and I'm envious. I see brand spankin' new 3500 - 5500 square foot houses every week with 100 feet of bright shiny copper sidewall and chimney flashing all fastened and caulked to the surface of brick veneer. My days on a drawing board making details of proper flashing in Architecture class make it a heart wrenching experience. It's why I LOVE the homes out of the 30's, 40's and early 50's - they're so architecturally "Text book" -lovely examples of a well designed and built home that can even be neglected for long periods of time, no worse for the wear. Most of the young guys don't even realize or appreciate that the old homes they look at were agonized over regarding such choices as redwood siding because paint adheres to it like it's welded on, and slate and terra-cotta roofs that last 75 years, like it's a skip in the park, and, of course, proper maintenance free flashings. It's funny that we look at these old home and there is virtually no wood rot on a 60 year old home because of wood choices. I mean, kiln dried wood, and worse yet finger-jointed crap, as exterior trim? What is that? When we were building custom homes, we even back-primed and end-primed every piece of exterior trim. We used to go to the "Parade of Homes" every year in Washington DC and while the average patron was uttering, "Wow!", we were looking at each other in shock and horror thinking something more like, "Oh My God!". It's a very sad state of affairs. We are watching the erosion of tradesmanship in home building. Heck you let a new house go for four years here and the problems begin... OK, I'm done now.. Lol.. (I think that used to be Chad's famous line from a few years ago that just popped into my head...)

Yeah, it's no better here. New home builders should be ashamed of themselves for abandoning such a known good...

Nope, just checked in Architectural Graphic Standards. I had it right. Properly installed flashing and counterflashing is a beautiful thing, which will never ever need a caulk gun...

Brad, Maybe I have my terms wrong? The flashing in the picture is "step flashing" which would normally turn up under (what I call) counter-flashing. Maybe it's called something else. But I can say this - you won't ever see the upper piece of flashing merely fastened and pasted to an exterior surface on a school, prison, or any other building built to last a long time. Nor will you see flashing surface-mounted on older homes where an architect was involved. The upper component is always layed into the masonry which is totally unreliant on sealant and won't leak until the day water can flow uphill. You can find some fantastic flashing details in Architectural Graphic Standards, which is one heck of a book and has probably been the Bible of Architecture forever. It's an amazing book.

Flashing installation methods have gone to hell in a handbasket. Of course, the flashing here is a mess, but even in new construction, builders are just fine attaching counter-flashing to the surface and applying a sealant along the top edge, which drives me nuts. I used to have to rake out my mortar joints to accomodate properly installed counter-flashing or actually lay it into the brick work. Why in the world do builders abandon such tried and true systems and install something that they know sooner or later will leak. It's shameful.

I've seen similar units in old rIchmond row houses, but they are typically made of galvanized steel. I've never seen one of chrome like that. The old galvanized ones could actually be cleaned out by simply removing a bottom threaded cap, which seemed like a nice feature. I doubt very any folks actually didit, though.

Gosh, I bought a Costco, a few years ago and found the folding ladders to be heavy, awkward and time consuming. It's been in my shed for about three years now. I find it so much easier to shoulderr a 13' aluminum extension ladder and carry a 6' step ladderalong with my 24'. I carried the folding ladder for about a year, always intending to make the transition but every time I looked at my choices I picked the easiest and least frustrating choice, which ruled out the folding ladder. That's just been my experience.

I've observed the same conditions in homes unconditioned for long periods of time. It's amazing the risks banks are willing to take keep a dollar.