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Thanks Bill, I didn't think it looked right. I called for an extension tube and confirmation by a licensed HVAC contractor that the proper components were in place. That was the least of this homes problems since the block foundation wall was so buckled in that the floors were pushed up about two inches. It was bad and in need of immediate arrest, before it all together failed.

If you give the situation a little thought and put it in proper perspective, in spite of all of the conditions you've mentioned, a reinforced concrete foundation is able to bear so much more weight than a home that it's hardly worth talking about. According to a local manufactured home transportation department, the average modular home ranges between 56,000 to 100,000 pounds. The average bearing capability of concrete is typically better than 6,000 psi. Assuming the home was 50 by 30 and weighed the maximum weight of 100,000 pounds, that would translate to roughly 500 pounds per linear. That, in turn breaks down to a whopping 5.2 pounds per square inch applied to the the surface of the foundation top and center beam. In light of all of this, even the weight applied to the beam pocket by the center beam, is pretty insignificant. The only thing I would want to see is that the steel bearing plate under the center beam was set in high psi grout. In cases like this you have to wonder if we are qualified to say anything more or less than to describe exactly what we see and express a mild curiosity or concern as to whether the building department actually blessed it as it is. If you aren't seeing a portion of the concrete under the beam bearing that is stressed and cracked, it's most likely fine. Since in the ideal world, the half-life of concrete is some ridiculous figure like 100 years, the concrete is still a bit green. If it hasn't begun to fail yet, it probably won't. I personally would not loose much sleep over it, and could see saying too much become a problem.

Heat pumps are the champion here in Central VA. and are found in probably 50% to 60% of the homes. Heat pumps with natural gas or propane furnaces as the backup heat source were the Cadillac installation here for many years. I do not have an HVAC background, so some of what I'm about to explain may be somewhat off the mark and more accurate info is more than welcome. As the energy efficiency of heat pumps has markedly improved, they appear to depend considerably less on the backup heat mode. While gas is a far more efficient heat source, it has fallen out of favor here, which I suppose has to do with the volatility of gas prices and the reduced part that backup heat plays. The performance of heat pumps has improved so much that when I replaced my 14 year old heat pump, my power bill was reduced by just about 50%, which was a pleasant surprise. The new generation of heat pumps seem to be able to work well in much lower temperatures. Some of this is accomplished by variable (slower) condensing unit fan speeds, which permits the coil and refrigerant slightly more time to gather heat in colder temperatures. I notice that the heat pumps no longer cut completely off when the backup heat kicks in, but rather works in unison with the backup heat. Another marked improvement in heat pumps is an increase in register air temperatures from the 90's to approximately 110. I believe this increase in register temperature has made larger ducts, which was really about reducing air speed to make 90 degree air more tolerable, no longer as critical to comfort. I don't think I've ever seen a heat pump without a backup heat source. Can a heat pump without backup heat suffice in Oklahoma? It seems to me (if I read all this right) that maybe the upgrade was being performed in stages - as funds permitted and the apparent intent, was gas (most likely propane) back up. The heat pump would then operate in the "heat" mode and the gas furnace operate in "aux" or "emer" modes. As Marc has said, "its bread ain't done". But, again, my guess is it was a work in progress...

I'm no HVAC guy by any means, but to look at one and imagine the big picture, the heat transfer rate has to be minuscule. How much heat can one of these things capture in one foot with the volume of air that 's moving through it via a fan? I suppose had they been able to run a computer model, they'd have abandoned the project while it was still in design phase.

Thank much! Yeah, I gathered from the other thread that it wasn't a good idea, but this was the first one I had actually seen. Impressive construction, though. That's some serious steel! I suppose thermal mass was the aim?

Yeah, it just doesn't look right and apparently it isn't ringing any bells with anyone else. I too am used to seeing valve more akin to what is seen on a water heater. I'm writing it up anyway, and it's time to send the report off, but it would have been nice to be a bit more definitive.

I hope this is what you need, but it's all relative to inside surfaces - not outside? Page 19: Wall Framing: 4-1-1: Observation: A framed wall is not plumb. Performance Guideline: The interior face of wood-framed walls shall not be more than 3/8 inch out of plumb for any 32 inches in any vertical measurement. (A remodeling specific note follows which I assume doesn't apply) Corrective action: The contractor will repair the wall to meet the performance guideline. 4-1-2: Observation: The wall is bowed. Performance Guideline: Walls shall not bow more than 1/2 inch out of line within any 32-inch horizontal measurement, or 1/2-inch out of line within any 8-foot vertical measurement. (A remodeling specific note again follows, which I assume does not apply.) Corrective Measure: The contractor will repair the wall to meet the performance guideline.

Pg. 29: Aluminum or Vinyl Lap Siding: 4-5-10: Observation: Aluminum or vinyl siding is bowed or wavy. Performance Guideline: Some waviness in aluminum or vinyl lap siding is to be expected because of bows in studs. Waves or similar distortions in aluminum or vinyl lap siding are considered excessive if they exceed 1/2" in 32". Corrective Measure: The contractor will correct any waves or distortions to comply with the performance guideline by reinstalling or replacing siding as necessary.

It was impossible, due to arrangement, to read the label on this component. This is an old oil-fired boiler. Is this a T & P valve? I'm not certain. What has me wondering is that near the boiler IS a removed T & P valve which I was familiar with. I've not seen one quite like this before (the one installed, if in fact that is what it is), so if you're familiar with this particular component, I'd greatly appreciate confirmation, as I'm writing the report this morning. I'm already aware of the lack of an extension tube. Click to Enlarge 49.44 KB Thanks in advance!

I inspected a 1951 home yesterday with a basement packed to the gills with all kinds of old tools and equipment. The owner, who had passed, apparently really liked to tinker. A couple things in particular came to the forefront as I tried to inspect this "tool time" museum: About two weeks ago - I forget which thread - I had raised the question, "Why aren't (or weren't) there more after-market gadgets attempting to wring the heat out of the exhaust from furnaces and boilers? Well, lo and behold I ran across two of 'em both chocked on about 6' of oil-fired boiler exhaust - both abandoned, of course, so the brain trust was apparently right, they aren't useful. Nonetheless, here they are: The first one was a heavy gauge steel heat exchanger incorporated into the exhaust system with blower and ducts (the ducts have been removed). Click to Enlarge 56.02 KB Click to Enlarge 53.09 KB Click to Enlarge 38.58 KB The second gadget was merely copper tubing coiled around the exhaust pipe with a metal jacket. I have no idea what he was doing with it, but it DID have a zone valve on it, so I don't think it had anything to do with a still... Click to Enlarge 43.67 KB

It's amazing how many very useful tools one can have in a very small tool bag: A telescoping magnet is PRICELESS for the times you drop that damned panel cover screw behind the clothes washer. [:-banghea A heavy plumb bob and a clear understanding of how to use one, can really come in handy when you can't decide if the building is racking or the chimney is leaning away from the building. Hold the plumb bob away at a fully outstretched arm's length and wait for it to stop swinging. Then, site things against the string and it becomes clear what is out of plumb. I've carried one for 16 years, but learned how to use it back when I was laying up stone. (One can't hold a level up against a stone corner.) An electrician's screwdriver designed to alert when a circuit or screw is live comes in awfully handy as well. The tool bag I started out with years ago was the Cadillac Professional Equipment bag which was about 24" x 12" x 12". Now, I just carry an electrician's tool bag that is about maybe 10" x 12" x 8" and it's amazing what I have neatly packed into it. If I need more, I just go get it from the truck. Carrying a lot of crap you don't use very often around daily may be impressive, but it's hard on the back as you'll almost always carry it on one side of your body. Chiropractors just love that and big fat wallets stuffed full of receipts in a back pocket. (Of course, a chiropractor won't readily cough up the 'sitting on a fat wallet all day long' bad habit - it's a money maker.) [:-graduat

Thanks for the heads up Chad.

Didn't take it as one, Terence. LIfe and everything about it is funny, for those who chill and let it be so. Please never withold good humor on my account.

Terance, Now that you've mentioned it, I see what you mean. Communication is the eternal challenge isn't it? I just attended, for the second time in twenty-five years, a Fred Pryor Career-Track Seminar called Business Writing for Results two weeks ago. A part of the seminar is devoted to reading sentences with missing or misplaced comas and other such sentence constructions which make it easy to derive an array of different and completely incorrect interpretations. Another part is devoted to what you're experiencing. And, rereading my original statement from a reader's perspective, it IS funny. Communicating in print certainly ain't for sissies. [:-wiltel] I love a quote my cousin's husband, who is a photo-journalist for the SBC, has on his FaceBook page. "Good writing is clear thinking made visible." [:-eyebrow I suppose I'll be eternally scaling that mountain... Well, Merry Christmas all!

Now that's funny. Yeah, it was one of those rare times I agreed to turn on the water in a vacant house. After an extremely cautious initial 10 minute wait and watch period, I began inspecting the exterior. I had no idea yet the big home even had Apollos. They were tucked away in the eaves over the grand foyer. The twin heating systems were, of course, the last thing to finally begin attempting to fill. When I stuck my head inside for one of my repeated nervous checks, water was dripping from the chandelier. That'll raise the hairs on your neck. Dang it! [:-banghea The plumber that winterized the home, apparently didn't think about the heating systems needing to be drained and the lines froze and split in couple of places close to the air handlers. Such is life...

That system is pretty popular around here and, curiously, the above complaint is the only one I've ever heard. For whatever reason, no one else has ever been compelled to express such disappointment. I've always shared Jim's opinion: they're dandy - darn near maintenance free. There's just not very much that can go wrong with such a simple system. I've only experienced one problem one time - PB distribution pipes leaked all over the place in a vacant foreclosure home. When I turned the water on, it ruined a ceiling over a vaulted foyer. Other than that, they seem to work just fine. Umm, has anyone noticed the number of views on this subject = 3400 and counting since September of 2008... Apparently a hot button??...

I love this place! So much to learn and so little time to learn it.

"Disposal" WAS originally a brand name, similar to the use of the word' "Freon" instead of refrigerant.

Well, Les I use "Disposer" having been corrected several years ago.. Apparently, it must have been you!

Well, for what it's worth (and this is a little bit of drift), the tech at the T-mobile store was explaining that phones on AC chargers are "smart" and stop charging after the phone battery is fully charged. But, DC powered chargers apparently keep charging and can wear out your phone battery. His point had nothig to do with this discussion, bir apparently it's best to limit charging a phone in your car.

Les does have a point. There are times when I've been out in BF Egypt staring at the driveway to a large farm and my GPS is insisting that my destination is just the other side of this humongus property thinking their driveway is a highway. That always stinks.

As a mason, I've installed heatilators, but never seen one with a combustion air make-up vent. It appears to be factory installed, but is unusually high in the unit for suct an intent. It has me wondering if it wasn't to be teamed up with glass doors, as the heatilator is double-walled steel construction and offers a considerable percentage of heat to the room through convection. Definitely a first for me.

Between two vehicles and passing units down to my kids, I'm on GPS's five and six. They really don't go too far ON and unplugged, so what you're describing is typical to above average.

Fortunately, it struggled a bit but started. Last time I went to spend five days in FL with my folks (seven actual days downtime) it needed a jump. You're probably right, Chad. I should probably get it checked with the cold months ahead.

Yeah, I have AAA, But I won't need it. Just glad I thought of it with 5 hours to get up and running.