hausdok

Pretty cryptic guys. How is the average homeowner supposed to understand what you mean? ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Hi, Looks like the footing drain is either occluded or they placed it too high. Either that, or the downspout receivers are broken below grade, or downspouts are dumping next to the foundation, or drainage sucks. If it's not drainage, broken receivers or misdirected downspouts, it's gotta be an occluded or improperly placed footing drain, in which case the choices are root out the drain or dig up and reinstall the footing drain at the proper height, or install a sump pump in the crawl, connect it to the footing drain and plumb it well clear of that home to the exterior, to remove that water, and install a new barrier that's secured to the walls below the plate but above the infiltration and seal it to the perimeter of the sump well and cap the well, so that there's no way any evaporation is taking place down there. If you want, I can send you a good article that will show you how to detail that crawlspace so that something like that isn't much of a concern. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Check your email. OT - OF!!! M.

Washington, D.C./June14th - Release #07-213 The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, in cooperation with GE Consumer & Industrial, of Louisville, Ky, today today today announced a voluntary recall of the following consumer product. Consumers should stop using the recalled products immediately unless otherwise instructed. Name of product: Asko DW95 Model Series Dishwashers. Units: About 130,000 Manufacturer: Asko Cylinda AB, of Vara, Sweden Importer/Distributor: AM Appliance Group Inc., of Richardson, Texas Hazard: An electrical component in the dishwasher can overheat, posing a fire hazard to consumers. Incidents/Injuries: The firm has received 21 reports of dishwasher fires. Product and property damage has been reported. No injuries have been reported. Description: The recalled dishwashers include the ASKO model series DW95 with model numbers 1355, 1375, 1385, 1475, 1485, 1555, 1585, 1595, 1655, 1805, 1885, and 1895 manufactured from January 1995 through April 2000. The model number, serial numbers and manufacture date are printed on the name plate on the right interior side of the dishwasher door. Asko dishwashers manufactured after April 2000 are not included in the recall. Sold at: Major kitchen appliance distributors/dealers nationwide from January 1995 through April 2000 for between $750 and $1,300. Manufactured in: Sweden Remedy: Consumers should stop using the dishwashers immediately and contact Asko to arrange for a free inspection and repair or to participate in a rebate program. Consumer Contact: For additional information, contact Asko toll-free at (866) 309-9921 between 10 a.m. and 7 p.m. CT Monday through Friday, or visit the firm's Web site at www.askousa.com To see this recall on CPSC's web site, including pictures of the recalled product, please go to: http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml07/07213.html The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission is charged with protecting the public from unreasonable risks of serious injury or death from more than 15,000 types of consumer products under the agency's jurisdiction. Deaths, injuries and property damage from consumer product incidents cost the nation more than $700 billion annually. The CPSC is committed to protecting consumers and families from products that pose a fire, electrical, chemical, or mechanical hazard or can injure children. The CPSC's work to ensure the safety of consumer products - such as toys, cribs, power tools, cigarette lighters, and household chemicals - contributed significantly to the 30 percent decline in the rate of deaths and injuries associated with consumer products over the past 30 years.

If the left and right bus are identical, does it really make that much of a difference if it's left or right, as long as configuration is correct? OT - OF!!! M.

My standard response is, "It's not allowed now, it hasn't been allowed, and it won't be allowed. If you can show me in writing where it's been grandfathered, I'll happily admit that I'm mistaken and rephrase my report to state something like, "It was once allowed but is no longer allowed. It's unprofessional workmanship that should be cleaned up by a competent electrician (emphasis on competent) - not the same guy who did this initially." S'funny how they nearly always hang up and say the same thing while doing so. When I was a kid, it would have earned me a trip to the laundry room, dragged by one ear, and the naptha soap bar would have found it's way into my mouth. I hear that's child abuse these days. Times have changed. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Washington D.C/June 14 The board of directors of the National Association of Home Builders has approved the creation of a national green building program to provide a template for voluntary, market-driven green building all over the country. The vote came during the NAHB Spring Board of Directors meeting in Washington, D.C. on June 10. The new program will be based on the National Green Building Standard, a model for residential construction and renovation written by builders, architects, environmentalists and product experts that will be released in early 2008. This standard is the result of a cooperative effort between NAHB and the International Code Council and is based on NAHB's Model Green Home Building Guidelines, which are the foundation of more than 20 green building programs created by state and local home builder associations throughout the country. "With a national program, home buyers can be assured that their home is truly green, whether they live in Seattle or Savannah, in a condo or a ranch house, and whether they're renovating or buying new," said NAHB President Brian Catalde, a home builder from El Segundo, Calif. "It's also the next logical step for NAHB as a leader in the green building movement. Our members have built nearly 100,000 green homes in voluntary programs launched by home building associations all over the country. Each of these homes is unique and responds to local geography, climate and consumer preferences. With an affordable national program, we will provide home buyers with green homes even where there is no local program in place," Catalde said. Like the Model Green Home Building Guidelines and the Standard, the National Green Building Program takes into account a home's lot development, use of resources, energy and water efficiency, indoor environmental quality, durability and ease of maintenance, as well as the builder's efforts to educate home owners. The program will be housed at the NAHB Research Center, which is also serving as the secretariat for the residential green building standard development process. The standards process is certified by the American National Standards Institute, for which the Research Center is an accredited developer. The National Green Building Program will include an interactive, web-based certification system as well as other tools and resources for builders and certifiers, and a national registry of green builders and green homes. Existing local programs that meet quality assurance benchmarks and performance criteria can become part of the national program -- without costly additional certification fees. "When it comes to residential building and remodeling, NAHB members are leading the way to creating a new, green-built nation," Catalde said. "With the resources and expertise of the NAHB Research Center, our new national program will help accelerate that process." ##### ABOUT NAHB: The National Association of Home Builders is a Washington-based trade association representing more than 235,000 members involved in home building, remodeling, multifamily construction, property management, subcontracting, design, housing finance, building product manufacturing and other aspects of residential and light commercial construction. Known as "the voice of the housing industry," NAHB is affiliated with more than 800 state and local home builders associations around the country. NAHB's builder members will construct 80 percent of the more than 1.45 million new housing units projected for 2007.

Very cool, I especially like the language used in the intro of that 1896 guide to the NEC. That thar be some high falutin' talkin'. OT - OF!!! M.

John is right about the freezing. In the town where I grew up there was an artesian well that ran continuously out of a stone ledge. Someone had capped it with concrete and had stuck a pipe in it, so the pipe extended horizontally for about 3-4 ft. Plenty of folks in town used to go over there and load up on water, because it tasted better than the water from the town's reservoir. The thing ran 24/7/365 regardless of the weather and even in the coldest winters, when everything was snowed in and frozen solid down to 4+ ft. below grade, that water continued to run. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Hi, What was it's combustion air source. Most I see are 40,000 Btu or better. That means, unless it's getting its air from outside, it has to be installed in a space with a volume of not less than 2,000 cubic feet. OT - OF!!! M.

From CodeCheck HVAC Email me the photos at hausdok@msn.com and I'll fix it. You want IRC 1305.1.3 or UMC 908.0 It's supposed to have a light with the switch at the access door. 1305.1.3.1. You know, you can order CodeCheck HVAC right here at TIJ's online store. Just click on the menu bar above and then on Code Check. OT - OF!!! M.

Hi, Rename your photo without the parenthesis and then re-post it and it will display. OT - OF!!! M.

Hi Richard, My concern is that the scumb..., uh, he, could move to another state and open up another inspection company or try to get hired by one. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

This article is about a home inspector that we all need to know about, but none of us is going to want to hire. To read more, click here.

Allllrrrriiiiiigggghhhhhty then! G2408.2 (305.3) Elevation of ignition source. Equipment and appliances having an ignition source shall be elevated such that the source of ignition is not less than 18 inches (457 mm) above the floor in hazardous locations and private garages. For the purpose of this section, rooms or spaces that are not part of the living space of a dwelling unit and that communicate directly with a private garage through openings shall be considered to be part of the private garage. Exception: Elevation of the ignition source is not required for appliances that are listed as flammable vapor resistant and for installation without elevation. OT - OF!!! M. P.S. Brad, are you going to the Sunrise Review hearing on home inspection licensing in Burien today?

I guess this is what you're looking for: IRC 2006 M1307.3 Elevation of ignition source. Appliances having an ignition source shall be elevated such that the source of ignition is not less than 18 inches above the floor in garages. For the purpose of this section, rooms or spaces that are not part of the living space of a dwelling unit and that communicate with a private garage through openings shall be considered to be part of the garage. OT - OF!!! M.

It sounds like a FVIR water heater, which is approved for installation on a slab in a garage. Yes, they have air intake vents, but they are designed to contain any flash in the burner pan, so, unless the City of Bothell requires them over 18 inches off the floor, it's fine. The furnace burners are, as you said, over 18 inches. It's the gas dryer's burner that you need to be concerned with. If the burner is in the bottom of the unit, where I see most of them, it's a risk. OT - OF!!! M.

Hi, I've found that most tenants haven't got a clue about how to bleed the air out of their radiators and complain that they're miserable in the winter. Then I crack that bleeder and the radiator turns from lukewarm to about 130° and they stop complaining. OT - OF!!! M.

Hi Very kewl, Jim. I've now added that document to the docoment downloads library. Thanks! OT - OF!!! M.

Swampy ? [:-eyebrow OT - OF!!! M.

Hi, Yeah, it's supposed to be 8ft. minimum but your local utility will ultimately have the last word - especially if the local jurisdiction has ceded authority over the strike to them. Looks to me like maybe the shed was built after the strike location was established. Hope you wrote up that crappy roof. I used to argue with folks about this all the time around here until I got a copy of Seattle Light's manual. Now I can back up what I say with something credible. When the code says one thing and Seattle Light says another, I just explain it to the client and recommend they go with whatever I think is safer, even if they have to do it at their own expense, and document the divergence in the report. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Well now, here's the rest of the story. The underlining is mine. From C & D's Home referenced book: 4.13 Insulbrick Despite its name, insulbrick has very little insulating value Various types of Insulbrick were commonly used during the thirties, forties and fifties. Insulbrick can be considered the forerunner to aluminum siding. Insulbrick consists of a fiberboard sheathing coated with tar and sprinkled with granular material. The surface is embossed to look like brick, or sometimes stone. Obtaining replacement pieces is difficult, as the material is no longer made. Insulbrick siding will eventually wear out; however, the majority of the problems occur due to physical damage, and leaking joints. Caulking and resecuring are necessary from time to time. NOTE: Insulbrick is frowned on by some insurance companies and lending institutions. This is thought to be due to its combustibility, and the fact that to some people, it connotes low-quality construction. It's bad reputation is unwarranted; however, the material can easily be covered with an alternative siding. From C & D's Essentials of Home Inspection - Exterior Section Two: Cladding, Para 3.11 Description Insulbrick consists of a fiberboard sheathing coated with tar and an embedded granular material. The surface is usually embossed and colored to look like brick or stone. It was typically nailed on to a plank sheathing. Panels of Insulbrick are often 48 inches wide and 16 to 24 inches tall. Adjacent pieces at the top, bottom and sides are connected with overlapping flaps built into the panels. Insulbrick is a brand name that has become a generic name in some areas, like Kleenex. While it is a reasonable quality siding, many installations are now deteriorated since the product has not been used for some time. As discussed The Home Reference Book, the product has fallen into disfavor with some insurance and lending organizations. Since it is an imitation material made to look like brick, many people consider it to be a low-quality siding and unattractive. This, of course, subjective and doesn't impact on its performance. 3.11.1 Conditions Insulbrick problems include - 1. mechanically damaged, torn, missing 2. aging 3.11.1.1 Mechanically damaged, torn, missing The material, which is the same as asphalt shingles on the surface, is not very resistant to mechanical damage. Impact from bicycle handlebars, etc., can tear the surface material, exposing the fiberboard substrate. The fiberboard is not moisture resistant and will deteriorate quickly if the asphalt covering is compromised. Causes This condition is caused by mechanical impact. Implications Deterioration of the siding material itself and water and vermin entry into the building is on implication. Damage to the building skeleton and interior finishes is another implication. Strategy Look for evidence of damage, particularly within five feet of grade. 3.11.1.2 Aging The granular surface and the asphalt outer layer will deteriorate over time with exposure to weather, including ultraviolet radiation, wind and water. The surface will wear out in the same way that asphalt shingles do. Causes The main culprits area - sun heat water Implications Insulbrick siding that has worn out will allow water to enter the fiberboard backer and find its way into the building interior. Strategy Look for lost granular material, cracking of the surface, etc. Inspect the same as you would asphalt shingles. Pay particular attention to joints where adjacent panels overlap. Most Insulbrick walls will become vulnerable first at those joints, which can open up and curl. Edges can lift up. The other common wear area is at the to pf the foundation wall, especially if no Z-flashing is present (where the foundation is wider than the wall). ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Hey Les! To heck with those danged shoe covers. They are a pain to get on and off and they rip all the time. Yung and I each has a set of bedroom slippers that are clean as a whistle that we use for inside the house. They go on and off really easy. No wrestling with those stupid tyvek pieces of crap. OT - OF!!! M.

Thanks, Bob! That one went into the document library. Correction: Well, I thought it would. The danged URL is too long and gets truncated so that's going to have to be one that won't go into the document library. OT - OF!!! M.

To answer your question about moisture meters. I use a Protimeter Surveymaster, vintage 1999. I dropped it 4ft. last week and dislodged another component off the circuit board. Didn't have any superglue or anything available to glue it back in place so I could finish the job, so I took a wad of toilet paper and closed it up between the case and the circuit board and voila'! it was working again. The next day, I happened to be onsite the same time as a guy from a local environmental testing lab was there. He had one of the new GE branded Protimeter Surveymasters with the more nicely rounded case. We compared mine against his. Without bothering to calibrate both, we were within 1-2% points of each other after 7 years of hard use and 4-5 $10 repairs, because I keep dropping the poor thing onto concrete. Here's the house from Saturday. Like the bat ears? The wall behind the dark sofa in the basement recreation room ranged from 22 - 64% moisture in the drywall, and nearly 90% in the baseboard. It was raining cats and dogs. The gutters outside were leaking, a rainbarrel next to the foundation at that side was overflowing and the concrete crocks around the foundation were clogged, backed up and overflowing next to the foundation. Everything looked great until I scanned that drywall and the Protimeter went nuts. Now they're contemplating whether they want to make an offer, knowing that there's moisture in that wall and that side of the basement likely has some nasty stuff growing all over the backside of the drywall. By the way, there was another inspector onsite the same time as I. I didn't see him using a moisture meter and he left after an hour. I was there 3-1/2. I'm wondering if his clients are planning to make an offer, and, if they are, do they know about the drywall? Well, maybe he's reading this. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike