Tom Raymond

You should have posted this in the showerhead height thread.[:-snorkel Tom

I just got my hands on a Flir b40, sometimes it's good to still have my day job, but I'm not too impressed with the software it came with. I can do any of the image functions either on the camera or in the software, but I cannot write comments. A nicely laid out easy to read report is a bonus, but would be much more useful if I could actually write in it. Is there any shareware/freeware that works better than or can fix the quirks in quickreport? The b40 has 1mp digital and PIP built in, but that merge looks really cool. Tom

That's just peachy! 700 billion for Wall St, tens of billions for the Automakers, and a measley 500 bucks for the taxpayer. They should have fixed this program before they brought it back from the dead. Tom I can't wait for January.

If you wait long enough, eBay will provide 1/2 off on anything you want. It's a really useful tool. I don't use it a lot but for certain tasks it's the only tool that'll do. I've used competitive models they're not even close. My brother in law has a bunch of Festo stuff. The guide rails and the plunge saw, a router, a drill, the random orbit sanders and the Vac. I love using it all but it makes everything I have feel crude and loud. The vac works so well at collecting dust you could sand in your kitchen. Those tools are outside my budget. My project wouldn't fit in the kitchen so I had to build in the dining room. Tom Image Insert: 1037.88 KB

Uhh, Mold Specialist, replace the drywall? It' a little mildew in the closet of a vacant house. If there is no active leak, wash it with tilex and paint it. I've got worse mold than that growing in my fridge. Tom

Damn, I'd hate to see the bill for the first fill up! I'm sure the residents appreciate the tanker every 2 weeks to keep that thing full too. Tom

I don't have a clue where they get their figures, I spend at least $1200 for natural gas just in the heating season and I've already made most of the energy improvements they would recommend. The cost estimates they use for improvements are just as realistic. I do think that energy audits are a good idea, in fact I'm developing a program at my day job, but the current situation is not very beneficial to homeowners. Auditors are either completely unregulated or so invested into BPI and Energy Star that they have to hose their clients to pay for their certification. Seems to me that some regulation along the lines of the licensing requirements we live with should be implimented for energy auditors, far more practical than Home Performance with Energy Star, and more professional than Larry, Daryl & Daryl. Tom

Thanks Jim, but is that for my specific example or for any combination of states? Tom

That is a beautiful example of how not to install composite shingles. There should be plywood over, or planks between, the skip sheathing. Should have been real easy to walk though [:-bigeyes Tom

Does that apply to Virginia inpectors also, or just this numb skull? This leads to an interesting thought, what are the ramifications of inspecting across state lines? I am about 45 minutes from PA, and I know that PA will accept my NY license, but NY would not aprove if it were the other way around. Tom

Mark, Rephrase your argument and you can't lose. Ask the realtor/builder why it was configured to be used as a bedroom, a bath and basement egress are not cheap features, if it was not intended for that use. The IRC calls these spaces Sleeping Rooms now if it is likely that someone will be sleeping there. If it is not practical that the space be used or considered for a sleeping room than the Schmo is right, but he built in a bath and egress so it was definately intended as a sleeping room if it's marketed that way or not. Tom

I think you should scan them all page by page and add them to the library here. [:-bigeyes In the mean time your idea sounds like a great stop gap! Tom

Jeff, Should that weather protection be an "in use" cover?[:-eyebrow A blank would look a whole lot better, and preclude the odd appliance in the shower. Tom

I'm wondering why there are such mixed systems there. Seems like the gable vents would be original and should function fine without the other vents. If there are cathedral ceilings or other obstructions in the attic then you will need soffit and ridge vents. If you are having a contractor due the roof it shouldn't be too expensive to have continuous soffit vents added. ShingleVent II is a good choice for ridge vent. Power vents are rarely a good idea. Pick one system and get rid of the rest. Tom

When I was building log homes I would sometimes frame the second floor with big timbers (northern white pine) and deck with 2x6 t&G fir. Very solid feel and pretty on both sides. Tom

Back in 89 when I last worked in masonry, the smoke chamber was never parged on the interior and we never filled the cores either. The top most brick were positioned to support the clay flue around the full perimeter. We worked fast though, 2 laborers would set and load scaffolding the day before, then 1 laborer and 2 brickies would build from the basement to the cap and tear down the scaffold in about 7 hours. Tom

Steven, If this is an intro to the report why are you reporting in it? I would try something like this... Dear Mrs. XXX, Thank you for the opportunity to assist you with the assessment of the maintenance issues at your home. It was a pleasure to meet you and I thank you for your hospitality. The greatest enemy that a house has to endure are the elements. This translates to water, wind and the sun. When you add in the human element, items such as poor design and/or installation errors, you can begin to see that its not easy being a house. Because your home is built so close to the ocean and is the first house from the beach, it is going to absorb the full brunt of a very severe environment. Consideration in design and maintenance must be given to withstand erosion, weathering and the effects of high winds, wind driven rain, wind driven sand, and salt. Any system or component of the building envelope, whether it be the facade, flashing, roof covering, etc. must be carefully selected and designed for its application. Of course, the best materials installed wrong are going to fail and proper maintenance is an important factor. The EIFS system on your home is a "Barrier" type system, dependant upon keeping the water out. It does not breath and any water trapped behind it will damage the wooden structure below. The type of system that would have been better suited is a "Water Managed" EIFS system. When installed properly, a "Water Managed" system allows water that enters the system to drain. I recommend completely removing the existing system and replacing it with a system that is better suited. Whether you replace the system with water managed EIFS or decide on a different medium, proper preparation, installation and maintenance is important. The leaking window frames is not an EIFS failure, they were not installed properly. The leaking sashes are due to sealant failure and is a maintenance issue. Failure of insulated glass units is common and it is not unusual to replace an "i.g. unit occasionally. The windows are repairable and can be salvaged. It is important to contact the manufacturer of any system you consider and discuss its application prior to making any final decisions. Recommendations should be in writing, including installation and maintenance specifications. The installer/contractor should be made aware of these recommendations and precautions should be taken that they have been followed. If you have any questions or need my assistance during the repairs or renovations, feel free to contact me at any time. Sincerely, Steven Turetsky ...and let the report speak for itself. My $.02, take it for what it's worth. Tom

Manufactured housing is titled as a vehicle, while a modular home is deeded just like a site built structure. What truely amazes me is the number of people around here with double wides that honestly belive they live in modulars. Not sure if it's misinformation or denial. Tom Anybody want to race for pinks?

Wow! CPSC was busy today! Tom

I find it interesting Mike, that every one of these articles you post has the same negative comments after it. It's the same all over I guess. Tom "...weapons of mass deception" I'm stealing that one[:-dev3]

OK, stupid question. I would think that the system that started this post should have a GFCI, but what about a hardwired system that was not accessable at the exterior? For example, I have a lift station at the end of my system at home. It pumps the output from the sand filter up to the storm sewer, and the top of the collection tank is at least 5' below grade. The pump and wiring are therefore only accessable via backhoe. Should this have a GFCI receptacle at the alarm in the house or at it's breaker, or is it better that it not? Tom BTW, it is direct burial cable from the alarm, in conduit through the wall and to below grade, unprotected after that. I have no idea how it is routed through/around the rest of the septic system as I was unable to be there when it was buried.

Yes a full screen, charcoal fiberglass, standard mesh should diffuse enough light to fix the problem. Pretty cheap and easy on a double hung or slider, casements and picture windows not so much. Tom

Glad I wasn't the guy that had to strike those joints. Tom

Why would one want such a structural floor in a basement? What purpose is served by the sub-basement? If that hokey get up (but at least they used "duck" tape to seal the connections[:-banghea) is to vent the sub-basement, why would it be hidden behind an access cover and not installed in the open like the rest of the mechanicals? Isn't mechanical ventilation of that type required to be automated with thermostat/humidistat type controls? Tom

Uh...if that is a lift pump shouldn't it have an alarm? Otherwise the crap comes out the lowest drain in the house before you realise there is a problem with the pump. Tom