Tom Raymond

Phillip, Was there a hose bib in the garage? Perhaps the builder covered the inside in vinyl in a misguided attempt to waterproof it for washing cars inside? Tom

Looks like a combination self cleaning drier vent/self de-icing gutter to me. Brilliant! Tom

Wow, that sure is an ugly detail (the stone, not the post). Ugly house. Ugly retaining wall. That turd needs alot more polish than those goofy stone accents. Tom

That explains why they're not anchored top and bottom, they're only temporary[] Tom

A few more things to look out for; 1. Don't get a camera that runs on generic (ie. AA) batteries, you will end up replacing them daily. I had 2 cameras like this. 2. Do get a camera that will accept generic memory, or spring for the really big card up front. My sony camera came with a 512mb "stick" that I had to dump daily. That was a few years ago, and memory prices have come way down so there isn't any reason to skimp. 3. Be prepared to spend some time with the software that comes with your camera, or just use windows picture/fax viewer. My Olympus camera had really easy to use software (because it didn't do much), the Sony software wasn't memorable (really, I can't remember it at all. What I do remember is that the pictures were very blue no matter what the settings were.), my JVC mini dv camera uses an expanded version of the olympus software (if only they expanded the usefulness). My last 2 cameras have been Kodak Easy Share LS 753's. They take nice pics and are very functional cameras, but they are a bit fragile (the first died from a 30" drop) and the software is a convoluted mess, and if you use the camera dock you cannot access the pictures (easily) without the software. Unfortunately, you can't test drive the software before you buy a camera, so read all the reviews you can find if you're prone to frustration from poorly written software. Tom

Lift master makes a real simple monitor that will work on up to 4 doors. Check it out here http://www.liftmaster.com/consumerweb/p ... odelId=746 It's a stand alone system so there are no compatability issues. Tom

Jim, I think the confusion lies in the dates of the NEC. You very clearly state that there is no 2004 code, only 2002 or 2005, and then twice reference the 2004 code. In any event, it's a moot point with regards to the panel in question. The AHJ blessed it, so it likely won't get repaired. Tom As always, your wisdom is greatly appreciated. Even with the typos.

I would be hesitant to advise "adding proper fire retardant material over the pull down stair door". There is more to a fire rated assembly than some gypsum over the hatch cover. FWIW, there are several very nice insulated and fire rated hatch systems out there, just don't expect to find them at your local lumber yard (forget even asking about one at the big box stores). Tom

He said it was a handicap bath, some crafty plumber decided to save a few bucks by using the anti-scald mixing valve on the shower to temper the sink. Then he failed to read the directions and botched the washers on the shower valve. Tom

extraneata (I just made that word up). Kurt, If you hurry up you just might be able to claim ownership of that. There is no match in wikipedia or dictionary.com, but a google search turned up 54 articles, blogs, etc. containing the word.[:-graduat Tom The search engines all wanted to correct my spelling to extranet, and we thought that HI's couldn't spell.

So the cost of "spirit containment" is 25 cents per window, huh? What does it cost to cover the doors?[:-angel] Tom

I bet you told him there is a little man who lives in the fridge to turn the light on when he opens the door, too. Tom

I got one better than that. I was zapped by a door knob on a new build about 15 years ago. The painters had removed the cover on the gas fireplace in the master bedroom and the hot lead for the blower switch was touching the fireplace frame, thus making the fire place, the double wall pipe and strapping, the steel cap on the chase, the foil face building wrap, the aluminum clad windows, and the steel entry doors all live. It had rained the night before, and it was mid-afternoon before the ground had dried up enough that you could touch any of the doors without getting a pretty good jolt. Tom

I know of a project that did exactly that. An 1860 brick 2 story row house style building with a rubble stone foundation and cinder footings, the 2 end units had the basements dug out. The footings were intentionally undermined in about 6' increments, temporary steel supports were used while new concrete footings were placed. The steel supports were moved to the new footings then the next section was done. Once one wall was "re-footed" the steel was incased in a concrete stem wall that extendeded inward and upward to include Mike O's "rat wall" in a single pour. The mortar on the rubble section of wall suffered a bit, but not a single brick was displaced. The entire project was done by two "old timer" carpenters, two "young bucks" with excavators, and the building owner in about 6 weeks. Tom I can't even begin to guess how many ton of brick were dangling over their heads[:-bigeyes

Mike, Didn't we just have a thread extolling the virtues of HI's doing their own research? The NYS law that I cited is, IIRC, the federal law almost verbatum. Sorry I don't have that reference in front of me. Tom

The fiber cement panels might be Nichiha, but can't really tell from the pics. I have no idea what that drainage system is. At the last Builder's Show in Orlando there must have been 20-30 companies with variations of that kind of backer. Tom

If a contractor replaces a garage door, and the existing opener is pre 1993, it is a violation of New York State General Business Law 309 (k) for the contractor to reconnect that opener. It is also a violation of that same law to service that opener unless it was equipped with both auto-reverse and electric eyes. Tom Homeowners can and do reconnect old openers.

I think I'll keep that picture for when a client asks "should I have the seller fix that?" Tom

Lowest Price Guaranteed Do yourself a favor and lose this, and do it fast. It is a really hard lesson to learn, but if you are good at what you do you are worth more than that. Tom Been there, done that, have the T-shirt[:-paperba

OK, why would the roofer be upset about your comments if he didn't install the roof? Maybe he was just born an a$$hole... Phillip, with regards to pic #2, it's obvious the boot wasn't replaced, but what exactly do you recommend? If it were my house I would relocate the service entrance to eliminate the mast penetration through the roof, might as well because to replace the boot, the service would have to be disconnected and the clamps and weatherhead removed. Around here you might get the utility to foot the bill if you needed to upgrade to triplex anyhow, but from the shadow on the roof it looks like that was already done. Tom

Richard, How's the water in that area? Hard water or a high sediment content will cause staining like that. My house was a forclosure that sat empty about 4 years and had a similar stain. That was ten years ago, and there is still a small spot that won't come off. If it is sediment it will stain rather quickly, after a week long vacation I can see a dirt ring at the water line in the bowl, even with a sediment filter on the main. Tom Our muni water supply passes State testing every year[:-crazy]

Whoa! The balck roofing sealant in a tube won't stop a leak?! C'mon, the roofer said it was good stuff.[:-slaphap Tom

Man, I bet Sparky just loves working on that panel[:-crazy] Tom Anyone ever see a GFCI Main? hee, hee.

My wife would kill me. OK Guys, you missed the obvious one: A Sears furnace, you could do so much better! Tom

Bet you couldn't wait to dip your toes in that one[:-yuck] Tom