Terence McCann

Some time back we had a discussion about this, either at the ASHI board or here. There was an inspector that had found a two water heater system and the first one was trashed while the second one was fine. Turns out the home owner had a big soaker tub. Here is what happens when the heaters are piped in series: The cold water enters the first heater and then the hot water from the first heater goes into the cold water side of the second heater. The first heater is practically drained before the second heater fires up. Most folks use these big soaker tubs in the winter when the entering water temperature is at its lowest. As they fill their tub the first water heater runs out of water while the second heater just starts kicking in, the first water heater is seeing all the work. The problem is exacerbated for those of us in the colder climates. As an experiment, in the middle of winter, run your hot water tank out of hot water and then listen as it tries to recover with a fresh load of 50 degree water. You'll hear the noise of water hitting the burners and making the same noise as someone putting a drop of cold water into a hot skillet. The tank is condensating. Do this a few times a week and it's not hard to understand why the first water heater, of a system piped in series, burns out. I can not speak for our southern states as I have no idea of their entering water temperature during the winter. Mike, I've never seen a system like you describe ie. one 50 gallon tank and a 30 gallon tank. I would think that a system like that is hacked in by someone that is not skilled in plumbing however. Last but not least is a diagram on how A.O. Smith wants their heaters piped when using more than one. You can follow this link to view their PDF: http://www.hotwater.com/lit/wiring/315268-000.pdf

Not in series. You will burn out the first tank in no time at all. Always pipe dual hot water tanks in parallel. This way both tanks get the same amount of wear.

If you had mixed the hot and cold water, as someone normally would when using the tub, it may have been OK at this time of year. However in my neck of the woods, in the winter time when the incoming water temperature is down in the low 50s, a 50 gallon tank won't cut it. Two 50s in parallel is a good setup for these big soaker tubs. I make mention in my reports about only having one tank with a big soaker tub.

John, go to the EPA web site and read up on what they say. This is one sentence from the "Asbestos in Your Home" page: If you think asbestos may be in your home, don't panic. Usually the best thing is to leave asbestos material that is in good condition alone. The rest of the article can be read here: http://www.epa.gov/asbestos/pubs/ashome.html

Any code regarding putting shut off valves before and after water meters?

Maybe both. Amperage and Voltage are inversely proportionate, meaning as one goes down the other goes up. A loose electrical connection will cause a condition like you're describing. Best thing to do is call a electrician to troubleshoot. Electrical shocks can kill you, do not attempt repairs unless you are trained to work on electrical wiring. Edit: I see Jim was hanging out at the same time.

Did you pack a lunch for that inspection? That's one nasty looking basement (boiler doesn't look so good either). With regards to the letter, I'd just chuckle and inform my customer not to use that company. The technician must have a nice German Shepard that helps guide him around.

I heard his wiener was crushed.

Oh, Oh I know! It's a super decoder keychain. I got one of those along with these: Click to Enlarge 105.44 KB Click to Enlarge 105.24 KB 93 more box tops and I get a pair of X-Ray glasses!

Who is the HVAC firm that is designing these units for you? They should be able to tell you what the fresh air requirement are (or at least I hope they could). For your own information I'd poke around http://www.ashrae.org/ to see what you can turn up. I've never seen a outdoor air damper that can be accessed by Joe Officeworker. In any case I can't see why this should be something that they can access and adjust. Trane makes a detector that will modulate the outdoor air dampers based on CO2. One big problem is overcrowding the workspace and then running into these type of problems. In the summer you can't open the outdoor air dampers 50% and expect the HVAC unit to remove humidity and maintain a comfortable indoor air temperature. The situation is only exacerbated with overcrowding.

You haven't said what type of chiller - recip, screw, centrifugal?? Your estimate sounds pretty good for a centrifugal however you need to add in X amount for materials. Liquid line dryers, refrigerant etc. Upon occasion we would send the impeller out to have it balanced and trued as well. As compaired too???? If it's a centrifugal then 300 ton is a baby.

I have numerous computers in the home but only my laptop is my business computer. I shouldn't say that... my wifes computer has Quicken on it. Your "don't ask" has me begging to ask why three computers? Inquiring minds need to know.

Depends on the type of chiller. We use to tear down 100 ton Trane recips once a year (for a local TV station). Replacement of the valve plates was done at that time as well as any other problems that might be found (the 100 ton Trane recips were dogs). We would also do eddy current testing on the chiller and condenser barrels. The labor on these would be typically be 2 men 2 days. Centrifugal chillers were once every 4-5 years. The labor for the centrifugal was 2 men 2 weeks. Parts would vary with what we found wrong. Eddy current testing would also be done as well. Back then 65.00 and hour would be a good target (late 90's) When the screws were coming out I got out of the industry so I can not comment. EDIT: We use to sub the eddy current testing out so that is not included in the hours. The testing was done by one tech with the machine. We would either punch the tubes or acid clean before the eddy current testing was done. EDIT EDIT: A centrifugal, with good maintenance, may last 40 years and beyond but I doubt a recip will be able to hang in there for 40 years.

You could put a web-cam on it too, pictures and video.

You got it Les. Any web site, that you know of, that describes the way these systems are installed? I've never been present during installation. Still trying to find the correct name for that white plastic covering.

I'm sorry guy's - should have been clearer. It's a white plastic material, about 1/8-1/4" thick. It's actually anchored to the wall with some type of a molly/lead shield anchor system. I want to say Celotex but I don't think that is correct. Now I'm starting to wonder if it's a regional type of thing.

Often, when they waterproof a basement, they apply a material to the basement walls. It is white and the exterior is comparable to the surface of an orange. Correct name of the material is???

You'll do fine Troy. By asking for help you're heading down the correct path. A thick skin helps as well []

Federal Pacific or not I always recommend replacing fuse panels. Too easy to over fuse with the old Edison base style fuses (not to mention that their old and everything deserves retirement - even me).

Any signs of a past fire?

When line sets are buried they are typically close to the surface, not five feet down (who in the hell goes through all that work?) A liquid line solenoid valve will only help the condition when the unit has a pump down cycle - something that 99% of residential units do not have. A suction line accumulator will help prevent a slug of liquid coming back to the compressor - another option that most residential units do not have (my EMI ductless split system has one though). As far as the world longest oil trap goes I would be doubtful of that. Is the condensing unit 200 feet from the home? While oil does migrate through out the system more likely is a liquid slug than a pocket of oil (that is unless the evaporator is located stories above or below the condensing unit). Should the client freak out and demand that the line set be dug up and run along the surface - no. We typically have bigger fish to fry.

When I first looked at the picture I thought was the pump was installed in the wrong location. This link shows the typical installation: http://www.taco-hvac.com/images/DMand_R ... tic_lg.pdf After reading Bill's reply I went to the Grundfoss web site and found this: http://www.grundfos.com/web/homeaunz.ns ... -11-06.pdf - which talks about installation of a recirc system in an existing dwelling. As Bill said you have to look for the bypass valves that are needed to make this system work. Learn something new everyday.

Bungalow built in 1941. Part of the report from a foundation contractor through a third party: He saw signs of efflorescence and was particularly concerned with the East side wall that backs to the rear of the home. He then walked the perimeter of the home and made his final detemination. He feels that the rear wall is the source of the problem and that by digging down to the footer drains and waterproofing this wall, running a high pressure hose through the footer drain tiles while he is down there, he will correct the problem and therefore is not recommending any other walls be waterproofed at this time. That said, he realizes the possibility exists for further work to be done, if it is discovered that the footer drains are in any way compromised. He warranties his work for 15 years. This repair involves the removal of part of the deck, the A/C and some of the concrete, which is why it is expensive. The A/C would be reconnected and the deck re-attached. All four walls were very damp and I can't see how taking care of the back wall will fix the other three walls. Perhaps he is doing a bait and switch where once he has all the land torn up guess what, your gonna need more digging - I don't know. My question: Was it standard practice to install footer drain tiles in 1941? I'm thinking no however this contractor has been in the neighborhood a long time. Although no mention of it was made the drains for the downspouts are the old terra cotta style and I'd bet a buck their broken in the soil. Kurt, or folks from the older cities, any thoughts?

I wouldn't worry about the last sentence Richard. If the builder can provide documentation so much the better. If not, installing an expansion tank certainly won't hurt anything. 1/2 hour labor and the price of a tank - not the end of the world.

It's an absorber. Absorbers are very popular in hospitals. Hospitals run steam boilers for heating as well as numerous medical devices such as sterilization chambers. The boilers need to run year 'round. In that type of setting it makes good sense for cooling of this style. The problem with the older technology is that they were prone to crystallization and they were real maintenance hogs. I read over this web site http://www.energysolutionscenter.org/te ... pchill.asp and they have a pretty good explanation of the system. It was fashion years back to have natural gas absorbers as well. They went the way of T-Rex. Not sure I'd buy into it as of yet. One of the other fads is taking Methane gas, from a land fill, and turning it into a heating medium. A city around here is using the technology to heat one of it city service buildings. It is the most vile, filthy energy sources out there. It needs elaborate filtration systems and water separators. It was pure hell for the HVAC equipment. I'm all for alternative energy sources (if for nothing more than to break the petroleum addiction) but everything in its time and place.