Terence McCann

Yes, it could be installed upside down. The only way to be 100% sure that it is correct/incorrect is to get model & serial numbers and check with the manufacture. A coils are typically installed in the A fashion, not a V fashion. Did the condensate pan look like it was a factory thing or something that might have been banged out in the field? Condensation carryover is when the condensate does not drain to the condensate pan correctly and ends up getting in the duct work. This can happen for a few reasons, installing the coil incorrectly is one of them. It can also happen with a high delta P across the coil. In the commercial equipment, where you can change pulleys on the fan and motor, you can actually speed up the fan to a point where it will blow the condensate off the coil (or pull it off if the coil is on the negative side of the fan). This happens more with vertical coils on builtup or package systems. Example might be where an HVAC company speeds up the fan to try to get more air flow and ends up creating this problem.

Who's the manufacture Randy? I'd check with them about coil installation. Wouldn't be this first time I saw it bassackwards. Biggest problem when they do this is condensation carry over.

Randy, explain the view on the first picture for me. Are you looking at a horizontal furnace? Is it a counter-flow (down-flow furnace) designed for a slab home? I'm trying to figure out if the evap coil is installed upside down. Typically they need to be installed upright as shown in picture.

Hi Chad: I know my way around PowerPoint. If you'd like, I can help you out if you need something done quickly. Drop me a note at tjmccann"at"alltel.net. If you have Office 2003 there's no need to update your software as PowerPoint 2003 will do some pretty robust presentations. As far as learning, nothing beats a trip to your local Boarders Books to look for a "Everything you wanted to know about Powerpoint" book.

That's a wise idea to always check to be sure, you never know how they wire these things sometimes. When using two transformers they are RH and RC on the thermostat sub-base. The RH is the inside unit and the RC is the outside condensing unit. If you kill power to the outside condensing it shouldn't kill the inside unit but as you mentioned better to check & know for sure. I believe that most newer systems use the single 24v hot to power both units now.

You could pull the fuse block for the condensing unit and still run the inside AHU with the electric strip heat, set the t-stat to emergency backup heat position. I wouldn't do that myself though, I'd note the condition and tell the owner to get a HVAC company out to service the unit. Last one that touches the unit buys it and with these temps it doesn't take long to freeze a house without heat. The outdoor fan will run in the heat pump mode but it shouldn't run in the defrost mode (to the best of my knowledge). There is also a thermostat to lock out the heat pump operation below X degrees outside. Running a heat pump at 5 degrees OAT won't produce much if any heat.

Jim, correct 3 pole contactors, normally found on 3 phase circuits for starting 3 phase devices.

Their 3 phase contactors (L1, L2 & L3)and the L could be interpreted as Load or Line. With the Ts I would imagine that the Ls are Load however, there are 3 wires on the L side and 2 on the T side. What ever is on L2, on the 2nd pic, is dead ended. Just out of curiosity, what as the voltage on L1, 2 & 3? As Bill stated these contactors are usually found in commercial/industrial applications, no 3 phase stuff in the common residential units. At best it's a weekend warrior with access to commercial parts.

Hard to help with no specifics. There are a few different types of systems out there. How old is the home? If it's a conventional system just substitute a electric boiler for gas. Check the usual items such as electrical connections, contactors and the like for burns / discoloration, expansion tanks, backflow prevention, water makeup, circ pumps, zone valves - all the stuff that would normally go with a hydronic heating system. If you really want to go a step further you can amp out the elements too.

Past tense? What happened?

Got a picture John? Might it be some sort of stiffener?

Although more for commercial/industrial applications, it still would be worth a visit to http://www.ashrae.org/

I agree that it's not a problem however, a call to the manufacture, or the local rep, doesn't hurt either. Gives you a chance to pick their brain about their products, talk about inspecting their product and to get technical/application information mailed to you. Manufactures don't want their product installed/applied incorrectly however, you may find remodels try to fit a square peg in a round hole.

Hi Robert: I'm sure Bill will have the definitive answer on this but I'll take a whack. It's a hand operated water pump. At first it looked like an old steam driven pump but I couldn't find any lines for steam and condensate. How old was the home?

No, at least to the best of my knowledge, it doesn't. Reason I'm vague is that you never know what the local AHJ has to say about it. Call the building department to be 100% sure. Does the fresh air come in through a heat recover wheel? Would be nice if it did. With new houses being built tighter, with better insulation, it's advantageous to bring in X amount of fresh air to provide better indoor air quality. I'm sure ASHRAE has standards on air changes.

BDP was (not sure if thier still in business or not) a sub-divison of Carrier. Mostly smaller package units in commercial application.

That's loaded with asbestos too. Isn't this the one where Pa. Kettle yells down to Ma. Kettle - More steam Ma!.

What do you gents say about older homes that don't meet the requirement?

The only ones I've seen have been in commercial installations where the trap was buried in a chase. These just have a small copper water line that drip feed the trap. I'm sure there are different styles out there, just haven't seen them. What type are you refering to? Any pictures?

I guess you're talking about the type of a pad that goes under a condensing unit. Never heard of, or seen, this used with a electric water heater. Urban legend?

Thanks all. Bill, that'll work.

Any links for lead paint hazards that would be easy reading for the buyer. I'm looking for a "Your home has lead paint and you want to scrape and repaint" type of thing. TIA

Any filter access from the other side? Also, where the liquid line enters the cabinet, that will surely be a leaker. The copper line is rubbing on the metal knockout and with the way the cabinet vibrates it will only be a matter of time.

It's not unique however, it's very useful. Accept credit cards. I can't tell you how many time the client forgot their check book but they always seem to have a credit card. I call the card number into the companies automated system and I know on the spot if the credit card is rejected or not. Also works great for relos.

Yep, what Mike said.