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mjr6550

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Everything posted by mjr6550

  1. I have seen brick like that with a glazed type surface with cracks. I can't say that I have noticed any freeze/thaw damage, but bricks vary as does weather exposure. BTW, is the stone ruins look supposed to be attractive?
  2. FWIW, I think the product below is probably what was used. It is intended to be a flooring underlayment. http://www.jacksonbp.com/products/lsu-30-30-30.html
  3. I know this does not answer the question, but... assuming the TV can unplug itself before falling in the water, then what the heck? On another note, how long can you watch TV before you look like a prune?
  4. Just to be clear, I did not say manufactured. I said modular. They built these homes to the BOCA building code and are required to hire inspection agencies to inspect in the factory. I can imagine that some private inspection agencies may overlook some code issues rather than risk loosing the ongoing work. Yes, the stuff falls apart. It appears similar to the paper backing on insulation, but has a smoother surface and is very brittle. I'm not sure you would use the stuff for. I was wondering if this could be the cheapest form of stucco underlayment. Any west coast inspectors ever see anything like this behind stucco?
  5. I posted this question on another forum, but no response so far. I have seen this material (looks like asphalt coated kraft paper) used as an underlayment on two roofs. Both were modular homes built by Excel Homes in PA. This one was built 1995, the other about mid 2000's. Anyone ever see this used? How they get away with this baffles me. Click to Enlarge 59.8 KB
  6. Same as Kurt. To be clear, I am referring to his first sentence. (The second sentence may also be true for me, but I'm not admitting it).
  7. Seems like some of the newer high-tech thermostats are less intuitive than older models. I usually get them to work if i push enough buttons. If there is nothing apparent to push, just touch the screen. That sometimes brings up the options. Also, I love the ones where you make you choice and then nothing happens because you forgot to push the "done" button.
  8. Around here 'A' Rated AAVs are permitted below the rim but must be 6" above the trap. Bill, I never heard of an A rated AAV. Is that an official designation? I thought that AAVs are AAVs and mechanical vents are not. Mechanical vents are only approved for manufactured homes and RVs.
  9. Is there enough pitch for standing seams in the field? I have 1/4inch per foot of pitch, so yes there is, but it's a balcony.
  10. I'm thinking that Emma is a computer.
  11. If you want to put a deck over it modified bit. is probably the way to go. If you want to walk on it directly I like fiberglass. You would have to find a qualified installer, or you could do it yourself. But there is probably nothing worse to work with than fiberglass (polyurethane glue and foam would be a close second).
  12. You are correct. Of course, around here with residential jobs the specs don't mean much. The contractor will just add water on-site so that concrete places itself.
  13. Rule of thumb for a slab is to install control joints if the ratio of the length to width exceeds 1.5/1. It is pretty common to see a crack across the slab if the ratio is about 2/1 or greater.
  14. I agree that it is a typical shrinkage crack. You should not be surprised that the crack extend the full length of the slab. That is common for shrinkage cracks. Based on the location of the crack I am guessing that the slab continues under the wall at the right side of the garage and extends a significant distance.
  15. I inspected a vacant house and pulled the filter-it was still wrapped in plastic.
  16. The fact that I have never seen UF used for this purpose concerns me. Is UF actually rated to be submerged in water for a long-term basis?
  17. Looking at the left part of the photo, I agree with Tectum. The right part does not look quite the same.
  18. What I was most concerned about is the comment to install a moisture barrier. This is an area below a slab. No access to install a moisture barrier, and no comment in the report that the slab on grade is not properly supported. It seems like-push the moisture barrier comment and move on. Don't actually take the time to understand what you are looking at. Everybody has their own thoughts on commenting on a little mold.
  19. Just one of many reasons why I hate the reports many (most?) inspectors generate using HI software. I realize it is not the software's fault. Download Attachment: HI Report.JPG 140.33 KB
  20. mjr6550

    Steam heat

    Bill is in the correct range for vapor systems. I had read 1 to 14 ounces. I just looked on the background information for this system. The manufacturer said anywhere from about 0 to 4-5 ounces was normal. The sight glass goes up to 14 ounces. https://ia601603.us.archive.org/12/item ... a51101.pdf
  21. mjr6550

    Steam heat

    I come across steam heat occasionally (more often when I was doing mostly home inspections). I have not seen too many of these. Click to Enlarge 27.78 KB Click to Enlarge 28.83 KB Click to Enlarge 45.54 KB Click to Enlarge 28.42 KB Click to Enlarge 36.82 KB Click to Enlarge 18.48 KB
  22. Yes I have. And I have never figured out what it means, other than something is wrong with the wiring to that receptacle.
  23. It looks like the other side is the band, or rim joist. Could probably notch a header to clear the pipe at the FW. For a single joist you can usually get away without doubling the joist (especially if the cutout piece is relatively close to an end), although doubling would be better.
  24. Yes, the dimmers need to be compatible with LEDs. I have tried two different LED bulbs with an old dimmer. One flickers and one does not.
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