In-Depth

Today' inspection had an old 100 amp Bulldog Pushmatic panel that I have a couple of questions about. At the top of the panel they tapped off the main lugs for a 60 amp breaker for an A/C and there was one other wire that went to a old fuse for a furnace. This is wrong, right? You don't tap off the main lugs, right. Click to Enlarge 53.6 KB Click to Enlarge 52.18 KB There was also a subpanel that was fed off of the 2 copper lugs at the bottom of the panel, but there was no main disconnect in the subpanel. Is this right? Does that make this a 100 amp subpanel? Click to Enlarge 54.06 KB Click to Enlarge 47.55 KB I got the ground on the neutral bus in the sub covered already. Thanks for your help, Jim

How old is the house? I'm guessing the unit dates to 81. Jim

I found this report hard to read and follow. I needed a page of instructions on how to decipher and interpret this report. The charts at the top only got more confusing as the report went on. There is no legend for the symbols. What do the green triangles mean? Some appeared to be more filled in than others. Does this mean something, or is it just a software glitch or my display settings? The 1st page of the actual condition report covers most of what's wrong with this format and report. Siding Material- There is a green triangle under "serviceable". There is a blue circle under "comments see below". There is a blue square next to Cracked/split siding, trim(normal for age). I think this means the house has some cracked/split siding or trim(which is it, siding or trim or both?)but it's Ok, because its normal for its age, right? What does it say under comments? It's only showing a pic of loose siding, no mention of cracked or split siding. These are 2 different issues, with loose siding being a one time fix and cracks/splits becoming a yearly maintenance issue. Comments section criticisms: Oh, the blue square means "See Rot/Insect Report at the end of this report". Even when there is not a comment about this item on the Rot/Insect Report? The comments are lettered, but the letters aren't keyed to the inspection item or even in the same order as the inspection items. Comment B- "The south side yard does not feel like it is draining very well." Oh, did it tell you that? This is a good observation but too much inspectorspeak follows. How about something like: "The south side yard felt wet, soft and squishy when I walked on it. The last significant rainfall was X days ago. The drainage slope of the neighbor's yard directs moisture to this area. This area of the yard may always be wet, which can limit its use. A landscaping contractor can improve the drainage to allow regular use of this area." Comment C & D- It's not clear if I have these items or if you just don't inspect them if they are there. These should be combined into 1 comment. Comment E- According to the chart above, my caulking is fine. The comment says I don't have any and the manufacturer says I should, and it's a moisture issue. Shouldn't it be noted as an issue in the chart portion? This seems like it could be a big deal.? Comment F-Mixing terminology(I admit, I'm being nitpicky). You call it head flashing above, Z flashing in the comment. That can confuse a client. Comment G- I can't tell if this is just boilerplate general info or if its specific to the house and related to the issues in the Drainage and grading section of the chart above. Comment H- I like the addition of the localized helpful information, even though it is outside the standards of practice after all.[:-tong2] There are some good comments and observations in the report, you just need new software and format, and to clean up the disclaimers and inspectorspeak . Keep it simple and to the point. Where and what is the issue, why is it an issue, and what you should do about it. A photo (with arrows or circles as needed for clarity)next to the comment helps with quicker/easier comprehension. Read through the Report Writing forum archives here. Improved report writing has been my number #1 benefit of reading TIJ. Jim edited for formatting issues

This is a section of CSST serving a gas fireplace. The rest of the gas piping is black iron and copper. This CSST should be bonded to the metal water piping, right? Or is it only when used as a main supply line and then it's bonded at the closet point of entry to the house? Thanks, Jim Click to Enlarge 54.39 KB

It isn't Lowes, it's a Home Despot deal. I bought one, but I am debating bringing it back. I think the 17' would be better for me. I do like the operating mechanisms, and it feels pretty sturdy. Jim

What tha?? I've never heard of a TPRV on a gas line before. Is this a California/West Coast thing? Jim

Thanks for the input everybody. The laundry tubs drained well, and there was no gurgling or unusual noises. The clothes washer drain was on the other side of the room, so there was not a large volume of water going through this drain regularly. I wrote it up as the vent was improperly located below the weir of the trap per Marc's reference, may need correction if it causes problems with the drainage. This was permitted work, so the city inspector passed it, or more likely, didn't look at it. Jim

Yes, it is a vent.

This laundry tub drain doesn't look right to me, would this be considered an S-trap? A vented S-trap? Please enlighten me! Thanks, Jim Click to Enlarge 33.88 KB

Yup, Insulation retrofit.

Have you tried putting new rubber feet on the ladder? Jim

Sounds like "Terro" ant poison. I get it at the grocery store around here. But I'm pretty sure Terro is clear, though. Jim

Only if you use the clumping type.

The insulation on the wire at the breaker above the double tap looks a little melted as well. Jim

That's what I thought. Thanks Marc.

The model # on this 1999 Ruud condenser is: UAKA-037JAZ Is it a 3 ton? The non-divisible by 12 number is throwing me. Thanks, Jim

I'm not suprised. I've found MN state electrical inspectors to be pretty pathetic in general. I'm sure they know more than I do, but they do not seem to apply that knowledge or even bother to do their job. Jim

Another key to ice dam prevention is air sealing-preventing heat loss from the conditioned areas to the unconditioned areas. I don't know how you'd do that from the roof. Jim

I don't think they get too many ice dams in Dallas[^] Jim

I've seen it on a commercial property in 4x8 sheets on the exterior. I don't know what it's called though.

When you download the best practices guide you are only downloading part of the entire manual. When you go to the James Hardie technical support site you have a choice of guides for Hz5, Hz5(Canada) and Hz10 zones. You are in Hz5. The first section of each guide - Info/Requirements/Tools applies to all products listed on the cover. At the link for the part of the guide for your area, the cover states Best Practices Guide Siding and Trim Products Version 5.0 - February 2010 and under that lists HardiePlank, HardieShingle, HardiePanel, HardieTrim, HardieSoffit and HardieWrap. That first section contains the instructions for penetrations and applies to every one of those products. The sub-sections, which you have to download separately, contain general installation requirements for each of the James Hardie products when installed in your zone. So, when you inspect a HardiePanel installation and want to refer to the Hardie guide, you have to use the first section plus the HardiePanel section for your zone. According to the guides for your area, those details are done incorrectly. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike Thanks for the clarification Mike. I had been looking at both sets of instructions that you linked to. What was throwing me off was the illustrations in the best practices guide were only showing details for the lap siding-but I guess when they say James Hardie Siding Products they mean ALL siding products! Thanks Again! Jim

In the James Hardie Hz10 Best Practices Installation Guide (I've underlined area for emphasis.) on Page 19 under General Installation Requirements - Penetrations, the guide shows specifically how penetrations should be detailed and states (I've underlined some areas for emphasis): "For penetrations in the building envelope such as hose bibs and holes 1-1/2" diameter or larger, such as dryer vents, a block of Hardie Trim 5/4, 4/4 boards should be installed around the point of penetration. To install a block around an existing vent pipe, it may be necessary to cut the block into two pieces. In this case, weather/cut the trim to fit it into place. Install flashings over the top of the trim block. Penetrations through a building envelope are made to accommodate needs such as hose bibs, dryer and furnace vents, electrical conduit, etc. It is important to restore the weather resistant barrier of the home after cutting a hole for the penetration." On page 20, the guide shows specifically how the combination intake/exhaust vent for a direct vent fireplace should be installed and states: "HOT AIR VENTS (Dryer, Stove, Furnace, Heater, Etc.) Any vent piping is required to have blocking and flashing at the penetration. A block of Hardie Trim 5/4, 4/4 boards should be installed around the point of penetration. The blocking should extend 3-4" along the wall from the edge of the vent. To install a block around an existing vent, it may be necessary to cut several blocks, with weather-cuts on each piece. Flashing must be installed over the top of the trim block." Also on page 20 it shows specifically how lights and electrical outlets should be installed and states: "LIGHTS AND ELECTRICAL OUTLETS Lights and electrical boxes should have the same flashing and blocking as other large penetrations such as vents. Many lights utilize square electrical boxes. Blocking a square object should still incorporate the best practices of an angled weather cut." Jim, I've always thought that was JH's way of throwing a bone to builders since the previous instructions had specified a minimum of 2-inches of clearance. I think it's their clumsy way of saying that they'd prefer two inches of clearance but won't bitch as long as there is at least an inch. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike Mike, Do you know if the requirements for blocking at penetrations apply to Hardi-Panel as well or only the Hardi-Plank lap siding. The best practices guide only references the Hardi-Plank and the Hardi-Panel installation guide doesn't mention penetrations. Thanks, Jim This is what I'm wondering about: Click to Enlarge 21.56 KB Click to Enlarge 25.27 KB Click to Enlarge 13.67 KB

I can't remember seeing one of these fittings before, but I just thought it was kind of cool! I like how it bends around the other pipe. Click to Enlarge 32.84 KB Jim

Is she talking about plain old plastic bubblewrap, or the foil covered stuff-Reflectix? http://www.reflectixinc.com/ Jim

Thanks for the input! I agree- it's wrong, sparky should fix it, but I was just trying to understand the logic behind the layout. I should know better. Jim