Paul MacLean

Norm, Keep the pool info coming. I only do a few pools a year and don't have specific questions, but I sure enjoy following the topic. I may not respond, but know I'm looking. Thanks for your efforts!

The Portland Cement Association also has an excellent manual on Stucco - "Portland Cement Plaster (Stucco) Manual." It's listed at http://www.cement.org/Webopac/cgi/swebm ... i=splusweb Type in the title and hit Search.

Here are a couple reasons not to exhaust the bath fans through the soffit. These were taken by some of our brethren. Download Attachment: BathFanSoffit2.JPG 167.99 KB Download Attachment: BathFanSoffit1.JPG 223.71 KB

Only 5% to 10% of my inspections have a septic system. So the best route for me is to keep the number of a person who specializes in septic tank inspections handy and give it out when the occaision arrises. I'm not aware of any lost inspections because I don't do septic tanks. Works for me...

I joined ASHI about 5 years ago in the middle of the .com boom in Austin. Why? Because people moving into Austin knew about ASHI and had never heard of TAREI. It has paid off big time for me. Almost a third of my clients mention ASHI as a part of the path to my doorstep. Back then, I was one of three ASHI members in Austin. Today there are eight, but I continue to get business through ASHI. FWIW I also belong to four other inspector organizations just for the exposure and web links. I get 10 to 15 ASHI referrals for every one from other HI organizations. ASHI membership pays for me.

A couple of months ago I inspected a house that had dry stack stone on some walls and mortared stone on others. I wrote it because I was able to stick my screwdriver completely through the drystack stone (about 6"). The builder yelled "drystack" because of my report until I mentioned the screwdriver penetration. Never heard anything else about it.

Jim, I generally can place the outdoor ladder on a driveway or sidewalk, or sometimes in grass. The attic access is usually in a garage or bedroom closet. In any case, I haven't had a problem with tracking in mud on the feet, and if there is mud on them it is easily cleaned off.

I have been using the 12' 6" telescoping ladder for about 6 or 7 years. I have replaced the feet several times and worn out the packing in the sections that keeps it from pulling apart, but it still works and I wouldn't be without it. It gets me on 95% of one-story roofs and into almost any attic hatch. Just extend it to about 18" longer the the ceiling height, push open the hatch with the ladder top, rest it on the side of the framing and climb up and in. No hoisting myself up from the top of a step ladder... The telescoping ladder is also a great "gee-whiz" tools for clients. They're always amazed. My other ladders are a 5' step ladder for high ceilngs and a 24' extension ladder for two-story roofs. Anything less won't get you on two-story roofs around here.

I picked up the following phrase from someone, and I use it a lot when I know I haven't listed every defect. I think it's a butt saver. Have a qualified, knowledgeable, licensed electrical contractor correct the deficiencies noted above and any others found or created during these repairs.

Where does it say that in the NEC? (Hint: It doesn't) So Mark, I guess you're saying labeling GFCIs is not a good idea? Unfortunately I can't find my source for the labeling of GFCIs (I didn't say it was the NEC), but labeling is consistently done in new construction here. The "GFCI Protected Outlet" label can sure help avoid a lot of confusion and I will continue to recommend it where appropriate.

Typically I see galvanized supply piping in houses built in the 50s and earlier. While I don't have boilerplate for it, I tell clients it's at the end of its expected life span and they can expect to replace it in the foreseeable future. When I see rust or discolored water, I just notch up the urgency. Around here galvanized pipe is a problem that just hasn't happened yet.

And technically, the kitchen GFCI protected receptacles in the breakfast area, etc. should be labeled "GFCI Protected Outlet". Most around here are not labeled and I write up the lack of labeling. I think the homeowner needs to know. I've gotten into the habit of testing those breakfast or dining area receptacles for GFCI protection in newer construction just to see if the eletrician wired them on the small appliance circuit.

I'm no computor expert, but I have a cable modem and my wife and I have separate computers hooked up through a router. I don't use a firewall. I do use Norton anti-virus. I was told that a router makes it a little more difficult for a hacker to find you in the first place. I shut down the computer when not in use, and I can't see how anyone can get into your computer if it's not powered up, but I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong. I'm not aware of any problems here.[:-dopey]

I frequently get oriental client's. They cook with a lot of oil and want a range hood that vents outside the structure. I know it's not a code requirement, but I write it up under the theory that they're paying for my opinion. My opinion is range hoods should vent outside.

Unfortunately common around here and a regular write up. You wonder what they were thinking and then realize they weren't...thinking that is.

One well qualified HVAC contractor I know tests for gas leaks with a match. Scared the b-jesus out of me the first time I so him do it. He's been in business for 20 years and is still testing for gas leaks...but I'm not going to try it!

It looks like the decking holes for vents that are "cut" with hammers around here.

I see a lot of what Donald sees. I consider a 3 to 5 degree difference between registers as "normal." Air movement seems minimal, but most systems seem to do the job. When I get a 6 to 8 degree or larger temperature spread between registers I tell'em to have a qualified HVAC contractor balance the system. Excessive sags and bends in flex ducts is common. All our supply registers are high on walls or in the ceiling.

For what it's worth, flex connectors are used on T&P drains in this area more often then not. I don't know anyone who complains.

Brass nipples are used here a lot, and they seem to work. I can't recall seeing any corrosion at brass nipples on a water heater. I don't have any technical data.

Interesting stuff! These statistics explain why we don't see much "old" stuff in Central Texas. I can never figure out whether Texas is South or West (probably more South), but either way, about 90% of houses were built after 1959. Austin was founded about 1836 and the oldest house I've inspected was built in 1906. (The only electricity in the place was a bare bulb hanging by a cord in the center of each room...but that's another story). Unless there's real historical significance, most old houses around here get extensive remodels or bulldozed. There is a push to preserve the look of old neighborhoods, but that ends at the elevation.

Texas SOP requires us to write up missing GFCIs and other items as "In Need of Repair", and that makes it a no brainer for me. I tell clients, agents and anyone else that I don't grandfather anything safety or health related. I don't care what the code said when the house was built. If any item is currently considered a hazard or simply wrong, no matter how minor, I write it up and tell'em to fix it. Yes, the Texas SOP makes that easier and minimizes arguments. The flip side is no one enforces inspection repairs here and the AHJ does not revisit a house for any reason except a new building permit. So most of these safety items go unrepaired and get written up all over again the next time the house is sold.

I have a copy of the GFCI chart. I find it interesting trivia, but I doubt I'll ever have to use it. Then again, it's nice to know where the information is if you do need it.

In Central Texas I see diposers wired with both NM Cable and cord & plug and that's about everything. I have never called out NM Cable or a cord if it's properly clamped to the disposer. Let's hear some other opinions.

Here I go, flying by the seat of my pants again, [:-dunce] but if I remember Dale Febs' Fireplace and the Inspector class right, a damper is not a required item. You don't have to have a damper in a fireplace...so a missing damper is not a problem (unless of course you're energy conscious).