Paul MacLean

I've never seen one around here, but I vote with Kurt. Cistern is my guess.

Mike. Thanks again! iespell.com only works when you use it...duh.

Mike, I just noticed a typo in the description under my link. How do I edit it? Thanks!

Mike said, "That's odd. If I'm not mistaken, Paul MacLean has had one of those for years and years. Paul, you out there? Is that the same brand?" Yeah, Mike. I'm hanging in out here. I bought my "Amazing Telescopic Ladder" from CSS Inc. in Birmingham, MI in August, 1996. I use it almost daily. I learned quickly that I had to keep it clean and that it requires regular maintenence. The instructions said to use "lemon oil based dusting/cleaning spray". That didn't work worth a sh*t. I started using WD 40. The WD 40 is messy, acumulates aluminum dust on the sides and makes your hands black. (So, don't hold onto the sides.) The WD 40 also eventually deteriorated the nylon (?) guides that keep the sections from pulling apart. Today most sections of my ladder will pull completely apart. And occasionally the bottom section sticks and I have to get rough with it. Once it was so stuck I used an automotive jack to pull it apart. But when cleaned up, it still works fine. I have less problems in warm weather than in cool weather. The ladder's convenience over-shadows the difficulties and I frequently tell clients it's the best tool I ever bought. I can't imagine doing inspections without it. A few months ago, I decided it was time to get a new Telesteps ladder. I ordered one through Amazon.com. I got a notice that there were delivery problems and thought "screw it". I going to stick with the ladder I have as long as I can make it work.

Roses are red,violets are blue. Austin poets stay in deep do-do. Austin in January is nice and bright, and having you here will be a delight. I'll stop now before it gets worse. [:-paperba

That's right sports fans. Members of CREIA and TAREI need not take the NHIE to become ASHI members. This may start a new thread, but it is a bit of a bombshell that most ASHI members are not aware of and I thought it merited highlighting. Jim, I'm not sure about CREIA, but for a TAREI member to be accepted as an ASHI Member he has to have TAREI's CPI (Certified Professional Inspector) designation. That means over 1000 inspections and passing a test. The current CPI test is ICC code certification. I'm a ASHI Member, but I am not a TAREI CPI member. Few TAREI members are CPIs. Another catch for the TAREI CPI is that his reports must meet ASHI SOP. There are enough differences that the TAREI CPI would probably have to change his reporting format. While all the TAREI CPIs I know are well qualified to be ASHI Members, I doubt that many will jump on board. These guys don't need ASHI.

Last February, I spent a week learning to do energy audits for the Energy Star program in Texas. I learned a lot, but after it was all said and done, I make more money doing home inspections. I just try to keep busy with inspections and raise my fees a little every year.

As an ex APA Field Rep (1968 to 1974)I know APA - The Engineered Wood Association has done extensive testing of plywood roof decking and 5/16" on 16" centers it is plenty strong structurally. It does give under foot and that is one of the reasons for ply-clips between supports. The ply-clips keep the panel edges moving together to help keep from tearing shingles. The one weakness I see to 5/16" decking is the holding power of shingle nails. 3/8" decking is better. I don't see any 5/16" decking here, but I do see a lot of 3/8" decking on 24" centers in Central Texas. Occasionally a client will complain about give or a spongy feeling when he walks the roof, but I have never seen a performance failure. I left APA before they got into OSB. I my APA days we used to badmouth OSB type products, but that was before APA members started making it. Now they promote it. APA is a reliable, reputable group and you can take their recommendations to the bank. My opinion. Worth what you paid for it.

OK, the non-technical guy is going to jump into this. It's my understanding that insulation in contact with the metal flue can cause hot spots in the flue and damage the flue pipe. In any case, at least 1-inch clearance is needed between the the flue and surrounding insulation.

All the education in the world does not dictate common sense, ethics and a good work ethic. Nothing will ever stop creeps and ne'er-do-wells from becoming inspectors. Texas has had licensing since 1985 and we have as many bad inspectors as anywhere else. The only way to really improve this profession, or any profession, is for the public to demand competance...and that isn't going to happen. Hell, look at politicians and lawyers! A great group of higher educated, ethical people. Right?

Brian, Are you sure you want to sleep in my garage? Download Attachment: Full Garage0180.JPG 205.73 KB

Do you like peanut butter sandwiches? The water for Kurt is less than a half mile from the hotel, but not good for wind surfing. Canoes or rowing is an option.

I'll get out of my own bed and fight the rush hour traffic each morning just to get the chance to see youse guys.[:-dev3]

I'll add an insulated screwdriver to Bruce's shoes and glasses. But this is stuff I use for everything, so I am not taking special precautions. I do take a good look at the panel before removing the cover to be sure there are no obvious problems. Years ago, I put a pointed screw into a hot wire replacing the cover. That was exciting. Sparks flew and the breaker tripped. I recommended an electrician make repairs and was never asked to pay anything.

The entire site is down. This looks like more than discussion board problems to me. Let's hope Brian gets it back together again soon. InspectionNews was a useful place for us inspector types.

What a bummer! To make things worse, you now have a water problem listed on you house's CLUE report. A CLUE (Comprehensive Loss Underwriting Exchange) report lists its claim history for the past five years. CLUE reports are available only to homeowners and the insurance industry. CLUE reports include every claim inquiry or report by a homeowner, even if it didn't result in a loss payment.

Low temperatures finally got down to the 50's this week. We might see a frost by December...then maybe not. Green is my color of choice for fall foliage.[:-propell

My wife decided to vote early and waited in line almost an hour. I avoided the rush by waiting until Tuesday...only eight people in line when I got to the polls. About 30% of registered voters voted early here. At least there was some interest in this election!

Jim...we hope it's open ended![:-timebm]

Katen said "Remember that a class 200 electric meter is actually rated for a maximum load of 250 amps. The "200" designation is 80% of its maximum capacity, often called its "continuous rating" because it's rated to pass 80% of its full load "continuously." That's exactly what I was looking for. The SEC and main breaker supported 225 amp service, but I didn't know about the meter ratings.

On a 1997 large house yesterday I found a meter marked 200CL and the service entrance panel was rated for 225 amps with a 225 amp main breaker. Is this a problem? If so what would you say? Thanks!

A couple of web sites: Aluminum Wiring in Residential Properties -- http://www.inspect-ny.com/aluminum.htm “Repairing Aluminum Wiringâ€

Here's a brief statement about the Ideal Purple Wire Nut. This is the only wire nut I am aware suitable for copper/aluminum use. "Ideal Purple Wire-nuts: Some of the test info includes this abstract from a paper presented at the IEEE Holm Conference on Electrical Contacts, Jan 1997: Abstract: A new type of twist-on splicing component for use with aluminum and copper wire combinations is tested to determine initial resistance, peformance in a zero-current environment test, performance in a heat-cycle test, and portion of current carried by the connector's steel spring. The splices tested consist of two aluminum wires and one copper wire. The aluminum wire samples used for the test are of the types actually installed in aluminum-wired homes. Initial resistance is found to be relatively high, and there is a significant sample-to-sample variation. This reflects failure to consistently establish low-resistance wire-to-wire contact through the insulating oxide film on the wire. Results of the environmental and heat-cycle tests show deterioration of a significant portion of the samples. The splices made with this connector are also found to be sensitive to mechanical disturbance, such as applied in normal installation when the completed splice is pushed back in to the junction box. Based on the test results, it is concluded that this connector has not overcome the fundamental deficiency of twist-on connectors for use with aluminum wire applications." Also the CPSC considers the Ideal Purple Wire Nut good for only temporary repairs, not permanent repairs.

For years I used to write any plastic T&P drainpipe as "not rated for 210 degrees or 150psi, the temperature and pressure at which the T&P valve opens." I took a lot of grief and got slapped around by codes permitting CPVC (as others have stated). So I backed off and don't make such a big deal about it any more. I just make sure the CPVC isn't close to the flue and discharges correctly. I have yet to see PEX on a water heater; in fact, seeing PEX at all is very rare around here.

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