Lack of drip caps flashings

[Jerry Simon]

Cedar siding, and projecting, horizontal wood trim junctures under the siding, above windows and above lone trim boards, are only caulked; no drip-caps. Builder claims the Dupont StraightFlash product used behind the windows will suffice. I think the StraightFlash used along with drip-cap flashing is needed (and maybe not even the StraightFlash if properly installed drip-caps are present; but not just StraightFlash alone). Your thoughts?

[Mike Lamb]

It may be better but I don't think it's needed. You probably read the Dupont instructions.

http://www.smithphillips.net/PDFs/Tyvek ... nstall.pdf

They have a product guarantee if installed per their instructions.

[Jerry Simon]

I guess it's only a "best-practice". . .

See attached from install manual.

Click to Enlarge

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[Jerry Simon]

It may be better but I don't think it's needed. You probably read the Dupont instructions.

http://www.smithphillips.net/PDFs/Tyvek ... nstall.pdf

They have a product guarantee if installed per their instructions.

Thanks Mike. Yeah, I read. That's where I found their *best practice* to use along with a metal drip cap.

As far a the guarantee, I read it covers the product, not any water damage.

[Jim Baird]

'06 IRC

R703.8 Flashing. Approved corrosion-resistant flashing shall

be applied shingle-fashion in such a manner to prevent entry of

water into thewall cavity or penetration ofwater to the building

structural framing components. The flashing shall extend to the

surface of the exterior wall finish. Approved corrosion-resistant

flashings shall be installed at all of the following locations:

1. Exterior window and door openings. Flashing at exterior

window and door openings shall extend to the surface of

the exterior wall finish or to the water-resistive barrier

for subsequent drainage.

2. At the intersection of chimneys or other masonry construction

with frame or stucco walls, with projecting lips

on both sides under stucco copings.

3. Under and at the ends of masonry, wood or metal copings

and sills.

4. Continuously above all projecting wood trim.

5. Where exterior porches, decks or stairs attach to a wall or

floor assembly of wood-frame construction.

6. At wall and roof intersections.

7. At built-in gutters.

[kurt]

That may be one of the most poorly phrased descriptions I've ever read.

#1 says it has to extend to the exterior surface of the finish, or to the WRB.

As I read it, that means it has to extend to the surface where it won't work very well, or it can remain under the trim and only interface with the house wrap.

Ergo, you don't necessarily need a drip cap according to the IRC.

But, we all know one wants a drip cap. Otherwise, it all goes to crap. I tell folks that to have a chance in hell of getting an entire assembly to work OK, one had better take every little step of the install as far as they possibly can. Otherwise, you're playing bad odds.

And, what sort of moron would argue against a drip cap? I'd have to disparage the guy that said something that stupid in front of me.

[hausdok]

It's a little odd,

In their Cedar Siding Installation Manual on page 9 the Western Red Cedar Lumber Association shows a diagram of a window flashed with what can only be splines and with head flashings incorporated into the wall; but they don't directly address the use of self-adhering type splines. It's almost as if they're trying to avoid the question of whether head flashings must be used but are saying that they should.

You folks who see HardiPlank a lot should read the description of how to flash the siding. It's spot-on the same requirements that J.H. has outlined for their fiber-cement products in their Best Practices/Installation manual.

ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!!

Mike

[TimDever]

Mike

Page 9 makes it pretty darn clear the picture shows 2 peices of flashing that do not exist on my home! The installation contractor/builder did wrong! The city passed the inspection wrong again and lastly my inspector when we purchased the home did wrong. Meanwhile I am left holding the bag as they say!

looks like I need a good lawyer to go after all three of them in order to fix this mess properly!

(Editor's Note: This response is not related to the OP's topic. It deals with an issue in a separate thread located here:

https://www.inspectorsjournal.com/forum ... C_ID=15597)

[Jim Baird]

Hey Kurt I think numero uno meant the window opening in the frame wall, prior to the install of the unit itself. Haven't even got to the outside yet.

Item I meant to call was #4 re all projecting wood trim.

Since the advent of this plastic brick mold stuff I have seen lots of yo-yos leave drip cap off the window headers. For some reason drip cap is not something today's carpenter thinks about.