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air movement?


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If you can stomach the cost is a great place for foam, but a buck a board foot is pretty steep for DIY insulation.

Skip cleaning it unless it's moldy. Insulate it with glass, it's cheap and it will outperform the rest of the envelope from the sounds of things. Enclose the exterior walls before you place the tub, it's the plenum space under the tub open to the stud cavity that caused that stain.

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Agree with the above. Skip the bleach and don't bother caulking the studs to the sheathing, although it is worth finding air leakage in the room and caulking or foaming it, after all mechanicals and before insulation. Use a large box fan to suck air out of the house, then crawl around the remodel room and find all the places it's coming in. After drywall, crawl around again and foam all the holes for plumbing stubs, electrical boxes, etc. If you can keep air from blowing out of the room through those cracks, it won't get in your stud bays and cause that staining.

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The insulation in the exterior wall was fiberglass batt about 2 inches thick and completely encased in paper. I've not seen this kind before. It was not fixed to the studs in any way. I suppose that has something to do with the staining.

That stuff was very common in my area in the '60s & early '70s. The paper on the inner side was coated with pitch or resin to make it a better vapor retarder. The paper on the outer side had no coating and wasn't as retarded.

Here's a pic from a rehab project. The old rockwool batts at the upper walls were wrapped with paper on both sides. The new fiberglass on the lower walls is unfaced.

Download Attachment: icon_photo.gif 60s Insulation.JPG

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Nice pic Jim. I like that diagonal stud bracing all notched in like that.

That's how we built them when I was a kid working with a framing crew of exceedingly grumpy, exceedingly old Italian gentlemen. They thought that plywood was the Devil's sheathing and refused to build anything without let-in bracing.

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