Steve Boozer Posted April 11, 2006 Report Share Posted April 11, 2006 I'm trying to teach my guys to leave out the last piece or two of step flashing when running the sidewalls at the corners of crickets and dead pockets. Then run two courses of shingles past the corner. Then install the metal pan / modified at the corner. Doing it this way ceates the gap that the roofer should understand he needs to perfectly fill with the side wall step flashing. Once installed you can tuck the caulk gun underneath and caulk the tight gap where they join. Comments? Download Attachment: IM000338.JPG 53.25 KB Download Attachment: IM000339.JPG 94.1 KB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hausdok Posted April 11, 2006 Report Share Posted April 11, 2006 Hi, I've never seen it done that way. I'm kind of the opinion that if you need to use caulk on flashings that they aren't installed correctly. Always open to new ideas though, so convince me. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Boozer Posted April 11, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2006 Na. That's my point. Cut it tight, overlap it, then you really don't need to caulk it underneath. But if debris piles up below the corner, the caulk is a little extra protection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurt Posted April 11, 2006 Report Share Posted April 11, 2006 I think I understand what you're getting at. I think it would work just fine w/out caulk. Flashing is not hard; just imagine water running down the roof, and put metal in all the right places. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mgbinspect Posted April 11, 2006 Report Share Posted April 11, 2006 While we're on the subject, Steve, can you start a revival within the roofing industry? I was on another new home construction inspection and the house had brick veneer with two modified rubber roofs over porches. As a mason, I remember raking out joints or actually installing counter-flashing upon request for roofers. Now, I'm seeing 15' of flashing turned up and nailed against brickwork with only a bead of mastic preventing moisture intrusion. Whatever happened to flashing and counter-flashing? I miss seeing it and feel like it was pretty good insurance that there would never be leakage. Am I missing something?.. like wonder mastics? or does my complaint have merit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian G Posted April 11, 2006 Report Share Posted April 11, 2006 Originally posted by kurt Flashing is not hard; just imagine water running down the roof, and put metal in all the right places. Originally posted by mgbinspect Whatever happened to flashing and counter-flashing? I miss seeing it and feel like it was pretty good insurance that there would never be leakage. Flashing is the most often fouled-up critical element of roofing in my area. It's either missing entirely or installed wrong somewhere on almost every roof I walk. That's depressing, because it is good insurance and it isn't that hard to figure out. So far in my young career I've seen just three chimneys with flashing and counter flashing properly installed, and I have no one to refer the others to for a good fix. Faster, cheaper, and dumber is winning that battle here. [:-indiffe Brian G. Alone in an Ocean of Bad Flashers [:-blindfo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mgbinspect Posted April 11, 2006 Report Share Posted April 11, 2006 Thank you, Brian. It's definitley one of those, "They don't build 'em like they used to" instances. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Baird Posted April 12, 2006 Report Share Posted April 12, 2006 mgb, I like to call those components "base and cap" flashing. Yes, lots of yahoos just goop everything up and call it leaktight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Hockstein Posted April 12, 2006 Report Share Posted April 12, 2006 Originally posted by Steve Boozer I'm trying to teach my guys to leave out the last piece or two of step flashing when running the sidewalls at the corners of crickets and dead pockets. Then run two courses of shingles past the corner. Then install the metal pan / modified at the corner. Doing it this way ceates the gap that the roofer should understand he needs to perfectly fill with the side wall step flashing. Once installed you can tuck the caulk gun underneath and caulk the tight gap where they join. Comments? Download Attachment: IM000338.JPG 53.25 KB Download Attachment: IM000339.JPG 94.1 KB Is that the final installation? I don't like the way it looks. It seems unfinished to me. I also think that under certain wind conditions there can be uplift of the exposed flashing edge. Will you fold the end down somehow so it looks more finished and elminates the exposed end? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Katen Posted April 12, 2006 Report Share Posted April 12, 2006 Originally posted by Steve Boozer I'm trying to teach my guys to leave out the last piece or two of step flashing when running the sidewalls at the corners of crickets and dead pockets. Then run two courses of shingles past the corner. Then install the metal pan / modified at the corner. Doing it this way ceates the gap that the roofer should understand he needs to perfectly fill with the side wall step flashing. Once installed you can tuck the caulk gun underneath and caulk the tight gap where they join. Comments? Sounds fine. If it were me, I'd line the area with Ice & Water Shield first as added insurance. I guess no one solders corner flashing anymore? - Jim Katen, Oregon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Boozer Posted April 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2006 Here's a blurred finished pic. I was mainly just saying if they just cut the sidewall flashing to fit the corner and then install the pan, it leaves a gap where they meet. But if you leave out the last piece or two of step at the corner, then run the two courses of shingles past the corner, and then install the pan. Now you can cut and install your step flashing to perfectly fit the corner since the gap has been created. On a back pan on a chimney you don't need this method. But I see gaps all the time at dead pocket corners and cricket corners, so I'm trying to get the guys to do it like this. I usually only put ice and water in the valleys and not on walls since I've never seen a properly step flashed wall leak. If I do a dead pocket corner to the gutter, I do put ice and water there though. And yea, never see soldered corners here. Download Attachment: IM000344.JPG 63.74 KB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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