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Basement toilet over main drain pipe


majorsax
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Hello all,

I hope someone can help me out . . . I am trying to plan out a new bathroom in the basement and have noticed that, in order for the toilet to be the correct distance from the wall, it would sit directly over the main drain running beneath the surface. I have tried different layouts with numerous fittings and I always end up with a scenario where the toilet is either too close or too far from the finished wall. Is it acceptable to connect the closet flange directly into the 3" side of a 4x4x3 waste T, which would be in line with the main drain? Please see attached jpg for a clearer picture of what I mean.

Thanks all!

Major

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Originally posted by majorsax

Hello all,

I hope someone can help me out . . . I am trying to plan out a new bathroom in the basement and have noticed that, in order for the toilet to be the correct distance from the wall, it would sit directly over the main drain running beneath the surface. I have tried different layouts with numerous fittings and I always end up with a scenario where the toilet is either too close or too far from the finished wall. Is it acceptable to connect the closet flange directly into the 3" side of a 4x4x3 waste T, which would be in line with the main drain? Please see attached jpg for a clearer picture of what I mean.

Thanks all!

Major

As far as the vent goes, the IRC doesn't require a vent on a toilet waste line, while the UPC says that you have to have a vent within 6' of the closet flange. I have no idea what your Canadian plumbing code says. Personally, I think it's a really good idea to have a vent within 6'. It will reduce the likelihood of burping at the toilet when a slug of water comes along from another fixture in the house.

To the rest of it, there's nothing wrong with locating your toilet directly over the main waste line. However, your drawing shows a sanitary tee. That won't work very well; you should either use a wye plus a 45-degree ell or use a combination tee. These both direct the waste along the line of travel and lessen the chance that the product will separate from the water. When the product separates, it can lodge in the pipe and cause clogs later.

- Jim Katen, Oregon

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To the rest of it, there's nothing wrong with locating your toilet directly over the main waste line. However, your drawing shows a sanitary tee. That won't work very well; you should either use a wye plus a 45-degree ell or use a combination tee. These both direct the waste along the line of travel and lessen the chance that the product will separate from the water. When the product separates, it can lodge in the pipe and cause clogs later.

There would have to be enough space between slab and the main pipe , though. Combos are much "taller" than a san-tee.

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Originally posted by randynavarro

To the rest of it, there's nothing wrong with locating your toilet directly over the main waste line. However, your drawing shows a sanitary tee. That won't work very well; you should either use a wye plus a 45-degree ell or use a combination tee. These both direct the waste along the line of travel and lessen the chance that the product will separate from the water. When the product separates, it can lodge in the pipe and cause clogs later.

There would have to be enough space between slab and the main pipe , though. Combos are much "taller" than a san-tee.

Absolutely. If there's no room for a combo, I'd go with John Ghent's suggestion. Wall-mounted WCs are great and it's much easier to mop the floor under one.

- Jim Katen, Oregon

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Holy Crap! Did you see the list price of that wall mount?

I would live with the configuration you proposed before I spent a grand on a toilet. In fact I have a WC in my house that has the flange attached to a close 90, and that still didn't fit so I trimmed half the colar off the 90. After 10 years it still works fine, and this is in the main bath so it gets used frequently.

Tom

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Originally posted by Tom Raymond

Holy Crap! Did you see the list price of that wall mount?

I would live with the configuration you proposed before I spent a grand on a toilet. In fact I have a WC in my house that has the flange attached to a close 90, and that still didn't fit so I trimmed half the colar off the 90. After 10 years it still works fine, and this is in the main bath so it gets used frequently.

Tom

I didn't follow that link but there's no need to spend $1,000 on a wall mounted toilet. They're readily available for $300-$400.

A close 90 under a toilet isn't a big deal. In fact, a standard closet bend is really just a close 90. A sanitary tee on its back it a bigger problem because it will allow the solids to separate from the liquids.

- Jim Katen, Oregon

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Anyone here ever actually set a wall mount?

Even with the wall mount, one is into the floor and main sewer in a big way.

If the whole thing is hammered up for a wall mount, put in the right fittings with the appropriate clearances, and install a plain old toilet, no? The work isn't the pipe, the work is digging it all up and making it accessible. Once you've got pipe you can get your hands on, it's Tinkertoys with rules.

The miracle of Fernco.........

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Originally posted by kurt

Anyone here ever actually set a wall mount?

I have, quite a few too. From what I get from this application, a Wall mounted toilet will be just more work.

Kurt is right, once you break the floor and dig you can do just about anything you would like. As in offset the main line to accommodate the proper configuration for your new toilet, if it absolutely has to be in that exact spot. Who knows, you might even be to get a vent in there.

At least it's not Clay or Cast Iron.

Frank

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Originally posted by kurt

Anyone here ever actually set a wall mount?

I have one in my lower level for the entire 30 years I have been in my house. Works great, but better still, it would allow for a vent above the waste line connection for a better installation. The advice about just tapping into the main waste without a vent could lead to problems.

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Originally posted by fqp25

Steven,

Geberit is a nice toilet.(2nd pic) I like the sledge hammer laying next it....

How will they finally support the cast iron for the sinks? Will they just keep those 3-2x4's there? It seems like the whole thing could just twist, and fall apart.

Frank

The Geberit systems I've seen go in are just like that. The rough plumbing goes in, then the framers came in after and boxed it all out. Monster big ticket for those fancy crappers.

Then came some sort of fancy color panel, and then over that came custom fit etched tempered glass covering. Single panes of glass 10'x9', all holes for all fixtures already cut out, and laid over the fancy color panel.

All 4 walls and ceiling in the bathroom was glass like this. Floor drain. Hose 'er off, squeegee it down. It was pretty cool.

Personally, I kinda like those Toto's with the heated, music playing, programmable warm water spray down where the sun don't shine jobs.............everyone should have one.

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Yes, everything got framed out after the plumbing was done. The trickiest part was shifting the vent stack. This was on the 10th floor of a 20 story building. It was converted from commercial to residential in the 70's. Alot of payola, there were open fire penetrations from the basement to the roof. The plumber was afraid to cut the stack, I had to support it for him... no problem. It's hard to tell in the picture, but to save space, the walls were framed with 1-5/8" metal studs, I supported the frame with kindorf. It is a nice toilet, I dont like the flushing system, the push buttons are kinda chinsy.

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Originally posted by Brian G

The sinks are ridiculous; they don't hold any water. Jeeeeeez.

Brian G.

No Creature Is Sillier Than a Human With Too Much Money [:-boggled

LOL, all my guys said the same thing. Hey man, I didn't design it, I just built it.

The sinks came with a "salad bowl" that had a large o ring on the bottom so it wouldn't slide, it sat on the sink if you wanted a bowl of water.

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