Richard Moore

Yeah, I'd say it was an odd configuration, but I don't think it breaks any rules. No harm, no foul!

On most newer panels (I believe) the spaces that will accept 1/2 sized breakers have special tabs. I.E. those breakers won't fit elsewhere. But it depends on the panel. Some, such as a 20/40 will allow them in every space while a 30/40 will restrict them to only 10 spaces (typically the bottom 10), and them some panels may not allow them at all. Unfortunately, I think the "lock-out" is easily defeated and some off-brand "tandems" may not need modification at all. As Neal said, it's spelled out on the label. Here's a typical 30/40 Siemen... Click to Enlarge 63.82 KB Also keep in mind the maximum the NEC allows in any residential panel is 42 poles. So, in answer to the original questions. Depends on the panel and where they are installed.

First use this year? You do have the gas turned on, don't you? Which "fan", the circulation blower or the combustion/draft fan? Not that that last question really matters. It could be a sensor (thermocouple), or a bad circuit board, or a burnt out ignitor, or something goofy, and it's unlikely anyone could diagnose it remotely. You need to call an HVAC tech.

http://www.docs.hvacpartners.com/idc/gr ... m05-56.pdf See page 4, figure 2. I really don't know why someone would prefer to install it that way over the 2 pipe system, but is is allowable as long as there is sufficient airflow for the combustion air. I wouldn't worry about CO from a car in the garage being used for combustion. Why would it be any more of a concern than an regular 80+ furnace in a garage?

This threw me yesterday. Download Attachment: 090929X033.jpg 181.98 KB '76 split entry with a 1" clear plastic tubing off of a PVC elbow exiting the wall between the kitchen and master bathroom about 4' above floor level. The tubing just terminates onto the patio below. I originally thought condensate line of some sort although it was nowhere near anything that would produce condensate. Turns out that it used to be the external air-gap for the dishwasher. I can only guess that at some point the regular drain piping got blocked, water started spewing out the air-gap, and so they modified this to drain the dishwasher onto the patio rather than clearing the clog. It wasn't doing that during the inspection so maybe the clog cleared itself at some point? Never a dull day!

"The receptacle at xxxx is missing a hole." Darren's may be better!

...mentally adds geodesic domes to the list of things I just don't want or need to do (along with mobile homes, etc). We will need photos Jim!

Take the worst case scenario with a functioning TPR valve...it discharges at 150 psi and 210°F. 210°F may soften the CPVC pipe a little, but it's not going to actually melt. The pipe has an open end (hopefully). I don't know what the pressure would be at any one posistion, but it will be a lot less than the 150psi. But, let's say some idiot did cap the termination. At 210°F and 150psi the pipe would probably burst, but that's a good thing. Remember, we are first and foremost trying to prevent the tank turning into a lethal bomb. Preventing scalding from discharge for anyone who, against all reasonable odds, just happened to be in the area at the time is very secondary. The good folks that produce the various codes all say that CPVC is OK for TPR discharge piping. I'm sure they gave it some thought. As for strapping down the discharge (talking about a termination at the floor...right?), I don't think that's a good recommendation. I suspect that around here most homeowners would loosen a seismic strap and then tighten it down over the discharge pipe. I could see the strap pressure flattening the pipe if it did become soft from discharge. If you are close enough to the water heater during a full discharge, you are likely to get hit with hot water "bouncing" off the floor, secured or not. I really don't see it "flailing" around like a garden hose. BBBUUUTTTT...I do like copper!

The ground connection is supposed to be accessible (or at least visible). Around here, the GEC connection to the rebar is typically behind a blank cover plate near the panel inside the garage. If you see a GEC outside, it is probably to ground rods and not a UFER. Click to Enlarge 50.34 KB

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hans_Christian_%C3%98rsted

Certainly, if there is no other service disconnect, then it needs fixin'. But, from what I can see from the photo, it looks like they have separated the grounds and neutrals. That would lead me to suspect there was a service disconnect somewhere before the two panels. Do you have a photo of the meter area outside and, maybe, a wider shot of the panels?

Sorry, I don't have the install guides for the original 5/4x6 stuff but I did build a few decks using it. I can assure you that 24" is not allowed. The current guide says 16" maximum for 5/4 x 6 and I'm 99.9% sure that was the original max. Even at 16" I found it too bouncy for my tastes and, after the first one, I went with 14" or less. The last two I did, including my own, are on 12" centers. I like solid. I would think that 24" OC would make for a nice trampoline. [:-jump2]

I have a PDF draft copy of the proposed 2011 NEC. There is nothing new in there about the use, or non-use, of 14-AWG wires. #14 remains OK for 15-amp circuits.

Matthew, You can find a copy of the 2008 NEC here. http://www.nfpa.org/assets/files/PDF/ne ... PDraft.pdf It's a draft and not the official version, but I don't believe there is much difference from the final version. There is nothing specfic at all in 110.3 (B) other than what you see below, which is the whole paragpraph. Jim was just pointing out that there probably, most likely, almost definitely, isn't any plug listed for such use. Section 334 lists the allowable wiring methods for NM cable. It also doesn't specifically mention plugs but, if you read through it, you can see that a NM appliance cord would break a few rules as far as allowable connections, securing the cable, etc, etc. If you are after a code quote that actually says "NM cable is not allowed to be fitted with a plug and used as an appliance cord"...well, there just isn't one. I was typing at the same time as Jim so some of my post is superfluous.

I'm not sure there is anything that specifically says you can't put a plug on NM, but the NEC doesn't generally work like that. It mostly lists the allowable uses and methods for materials and doesn't try to guess every possible way of screwing things up. So...ask the agent to have the electrician point out in section 334 exactly where putting a plug on NM is listed as an allowable wiring method (hint...it ain't there). Or maybe he would like to try to find something in sections 400 and 402 decribing NM as an acceptable cord or fixture wire (good luck with that). Stick to your guns. It's wrong.

No, no gutters. Just a drain hole to a downspout here and there, and not many of them. The metal you are seeing is at top of a slight rise at the edges...maybe an inch or so. This home also had a "fun" foundation under a 30'x15' added wing. At least 30' of the perimeter "footing" (if you can call it that) wasn't in contact with the soil. Click to Enlarge 82.62 KB

The ponding on this particular roof may or may not have met the 72-hour standard (I'd heard it as 48). Tough to tell as we have had no rain for many weeks and I was mostly going by stains and deteriorated coating. I doubt that it was deep enough to ever be a structural issue, but leaks...well, I just don't know. As I said before, the deep cracking was all over this roof but the (suspected) ponding was more restricted. The below is a photo is of one area. So, for my info, how would you guys report this roof? Click to Enlarge 93.98 KB

Thanks guys. I really appreciate your input. So...probably not as bad as it looks, but I still see no way I could "bless" the roof for my clients and "punting" to the roofers seems my only choice.

Thanks Jim, but... That sounds good, but this was about 1500sf of roof with these areas everywhere. I would be up there for hours probing the thousands of cracks. On a flat roof, especially one with ponding issues in some areas, that 1% could cause major damage. I can see that the felt may be, even probably is, still intact but, with all due respect, I have a hard time with no solution needed. If I could see felt in the cracks then isn't that felt now subject to damage that the flood coat was supposed to prevent?

Here's a wider angle of the same area. The skylight is about 3'x5'. The alligator segments were larger and the cracks deeper (1/2"+ in places) than I've ever seen before. Click to Enlarge 79.58 KB So, if the problem is too much asphalt, what's the solution...more? The clients already have a couple of roofers lined up for evaluation and estimates.

I had a 60 year old home today with a mostly flat roof (MLS described as torch-down). It had the deepest and worst alligatoring I have yet seen, all over the roof. Also had ponding stains in various areas. No question it needs repair/replacement, but I have a question. The reflective coating looked to be maybe 5 years or less, although there were a couple of patched areas on top of that. As you may be able to tell from the photo, the cracks have appeared since the coating was applied. I thought these normally happened over time, but could our recent record heat wave have caused this deep cracking just in the last couple of weeks? The reason I ask is that we haven't had any rain for almost a month now. There weren't any ceiling stains (no attic spaces) but I have to wonder if this whole roof isn't going to leak like a sieve if it doesn't get fixed before the next rain. (Rain showers are actually forcast to start tomorrow - we need it!) Click to Enlarge 49.23 KB

What Hank said. 4-AWG copper is allowed for 100-amp SECs. Your set-up is OK.

OK, OK... A few observations that Hank didn't get to: What is “relatively quickâ€

I found this guy in a tub on Saturday. OK...not exactly a tarantula, but the biggest one I have ever seen around here. I was impressed enough that I had to measure him (her). Click to Enlarge 61.64 KB

OK...my bad. I need to read up some more. I don't do commercial or whole complexes but I will get on condo roofs, when possible, for a quick gander at the common area roof. I may have mis-identified some stuff in the past, but I'm mainly looking for bad seams, ponding, etc. So I have a question...What's in the photos that would make the first few responders believe it is PVC and not TPO?