Mark P

Exactly

YES! It does not always turn off, so now I flip the battery around when I'm done. It is a hassel, but it saves the battery.

I think every area is different, you just have to try different things until you find what works. There is no magic bullet, it is more of a shotgun approch. I ask almost evey client why they choose me and I keep track of it. A good web site is a must and geeting your company to pop up whenever someone googles "Home Inspection (town name) takes some time. I get a good amount of busness from brochures I have (or use to have) in realtors offices, BNI, web site, previous customers. I'm at the point where I really don't actively advertise anymore. It is kinda of on auto pilot, but I spent a lot of time developing what I have out there working for me.

Does This Help? Click to Enlarge 6.9 KB

That's What She Said.

I don't charage extra, but maybe I should. If there were two identical houses with the only different being one had a crawlspace and the other a basement the fee would be the same. I was at a house the other day and the crawl was about 10 inches deep - no way I could have gotten in the opening. The buyer understood, but I did not reduce my fee and he did not ask.

There is insulation on all 3 sides of the attic triangle. It just does not look like it in the picture. The knee wall attic spaces are insulated the same way, except they have a floor. Thanks for the discussion everyone. I like the idea of it being wrong, but not being a problem. Hope everyone has a nice weekend.

What are you thoughts on this attic? It has R-13 insulation in both the floor and ceiling. There is no ventulation at all and no signs on any problem either in the attic of to the shingles on the roof. I bet it is hot as hell in the summer and think vents should be added. If vents are added should the insulation in the attic ceiling be removed? Thoughts... Click to Enlarge 43.54 KB Click to Enlarge 49.43 KB

Any update on when the books will be shipped. I ordered a hard copy back in Dec....?

Once in a blue moon I'll be offered a look at a previous report on a home I'm inspecting. I never look at it until after I've completed my inspection. When I do look at it, I feel validated in saying I did a better inspection then the other guy.

I always check appliances for basic operation; except for roll away dishwashers. I have not operated one that did not leak. I tell my client so, explain how to hook it up, but I no longer operate them. If the client wants to stand there in the kitchen and make sure it does not leak all over the floor they can do so.

You might try calling the manufacturer of the water heater - larger companies will probably have a specialist who can work it out for you. Let us know what you learn.

When I first started in the biz I advertised my fees - no longer. By not advertising it gives me flexibility to adjust the fee based on various factors I'll obtain during the phone conversation such as distance, age and location of home. When I really busy in the middle of summer, my fees go up, when I?m really slow I can adjust my fees down. Sometimes I'll get calls and for whatever reason I really don't want the job so I'll quote a really high fee. We all get call from price shoppers, by forcing them to call to get the price it gives you the opportunity to talk to the customer and perhaps sell yourself a bit and pick up some jobs you might not have gotten otherwise. The last brochure I created did about 3 years ago I simple had a line that ?Inspection fees are based on total finished square footage of the home and start at $...? I?m in the process of updating that brochure and one of the changes I?m making is removing any mention of fees. I like having the flexibility to adjust my fee as I see fit. I don't get crazy with it, I pretty much know what I'm going to charge for an average home within a given distance and that is what I charge for the large majority of jobs I do; however, when circumstances change (over 3000 sq ft, over 75, 100, 150 years old, etc) my fees change.

Kenmoore Thanks

I could not find a data label on a Kenmore furnace - it looks to be at least 20 years old it not older. I'm thinking perhaps 1987 based on this gas valve, but interrupting gas valve data is not something I?ve been schooled in. Does anyone know how to read a gas valve ? and if so what is the date? Thanks Click to Enlarge 41.02 KB

oh just toss in a few magnets and stir it around for awhile and I sure you'll be fine - just don't eat the magnets, they may be hazardous to your health. Of course you could always just label it 99% pure maple syrup 1% metal fibers and let the consumer decide.

Were all 3 systems being monotored by the same company? The reason I ask is I've never heard of that happening, so maybe it was a local issue with the way the security systems were being installed. It seams resonable that a smoke detector could be tested without alerting the security company. I've set off a few alarms and had cops show up (just happened last week) but not due to testing a smoke detector.

Yes there is a drak spot, that I think is from water. That is exactly where the leak is. That is brick over frame.

I think so, it was the wife I was speaking to and she did not know much about it. She just knows it leaked before, someone came and put black stuff on the wall and it leaks worse now.

So here is the situation. The water is not coming through the foundation wall. The best I can tell it is coming over the top in two locations. The major leak is where the steel girder rest in the pocket at the top of the wall. According to the owner this leak is so bad that when it is raining hard they have to stay home on bucket detail. Before they bought the house there was already an epoxy injection from the pocket to the floor. Recently carbon fiber was placed over this and as you see in the picture all around the pocket so nothing is really visible. The sill plate was not stained and I used a moisture meter and levels were normal. On the outside of the house at this location it appears some excavation was done and carbon fiber placed on the outside as well. According to the owner the leaking is worse now then before the carbon fiber was added. The last time it leaked was 2 weeks ago. On the outside where the leak is occurring there are no weep holes along the bottom of the brick fascia and there are gaps / holes along the top. It seems that this could be the problem; that the water enters along the top and is somehow making its way inside since there are no weeps at the bottom. However, the insulation along the band-board and the band-board itself show no signs of being wet. I?m wondering if drilling holes along the bottom and sealing the gaps along the top would fix it. Or should the fascia be removed and redone? Thoughts... Click to Enlarge 60.08 KB The leak is about 3 feet to the right of the window, you can see the discoloration of the bricks. Click to Enlarge 28.56 KB Click to Enlarge 67.38 KB Click to Enlarge 45.04 KB

Good Picture. I'd have closed that damper pretty damn quick.

Later this afternoon I going to look at a 15 years old house that has had a leaking basement for many years. Two companies (Crack Team & B Dry) have made repairs without success. I know ?The Crack Team? uses epoxy injection as a repair method. I was sent one picture and it looks like carbon fiber was applied to the foundation wall ? I assume by B Dry. I believe carbon fiber is a structural repair and not a water proofing repair. I don?t know what was done first, but according to the owner after the last repair the leaks got worse. They now have some local contractor that is going to try and fix the problem for $750 by: ?Tuck-point the deteriorated mortar joints on the west side of the house.? ?Caulk the area where the vinyl siding meets the brick.? I have not seen the house, but I know a 15 years old house is going to have break fascia so tuck-pointing and caulking the vinyl is stupid and a waste of money and time. I thought I would post here for ideas before heading out. I was thinking a possible cause would be no weep holes ? but that would probably cause leaking through the framed wall not the poured concrete foundation. Another thought is that if repairs from the inside did not work then excavation and repairs from the outside maybe necessary. Thoughts?..

Under a small 1932 house in a poor neighborhood. I believe the original framing was over spanned and there have been years of attempts to fix it with whatever they had available. It is a real mess. I know the family of 5 that is buying it after years of living in a mobile home will just live with it, because they want a house and this is all the can afford. Click to Enlarge 43.53?KB Click to Enlarge 38.46?KB Click to Enlarge 44.63?KB Click to Enlarge 42.72?KB

Maybe it is the boxed gutters that makes it look that way. Click to Enlarge 55.42 KB Click to Enlarge 43.21 KB

Yes that is what I thought as well. I did spend some time researching the answer before I decided to post the question. I scaned the inside with my IR camera and the house is solid brick construction, except for a second floor bathroom that is at the right corner when looking at the back of the house. Also the 3rd floor is a walk up attic area and the brick walls are exposed. The seller bought it in 2006 for $40k and spent $210 in renovations. I believe her husband died and she is moving back to Callifornia to live near her son. She is selling it for $175. It is really very nice on the inside - everything was replaced in 2006/7.