Mark P

As you can see the ground wires from numerous circuits are twisted together and a single pigtail (from each group) is running to the grounding/neutral bus bar. Since I have not seen this before (that I can remember) I assume it is wroung. Can someone confirm this is wrong. If it is wrong I'm trying to figure out why it is wrong seems it should work??? Click to Enlarge 57.14 KB Click to Enlarge 86.5 KB

please send some pictures.

I'd probably quote $1200 and one of my competitors would under bid me and I'd never get the job.

I would simply retest to see what the levels are now that a mitigation system has been installed. However, it does sound screwy to me, but then again I have never seen an earth home with a mitigation system, but I have seen thousands of mitigation systems in "typical" homes, so I'll stick with my screwy opinion for now. Secondly I am pretty sure the radon tester you have (it plugs into the wall and is about the size of a CO detector) has not been accepted by the EPA, I forget the reason, but I seem to remember reading they are unreliable.

I have a TK15 and wore the rubber off the tail piece from lots of use. Replaced it with the extra one that came with it and wore that one out. I had to go around and around and around with someone is at the manufacturing plant in China to try and get a new rubber covering and it was not until I got snotty that they finaly got me one. And yes my switch does not work very well anymore. I now use it as a back up flashlight - can I get a new tail piece /switch too.

I lived in Germany for 4+ years, I don't know about the kitchen thing (my focus in life was elsewhere), but none of the houses had closets because taxs we in part based on the # of rooms you had and a closet was considered a room.

The nets are proof of how much they care for their employees. If American companies cared that much maybe we'd have more manufacturing jobs.

Around here a geothermal heat pump runs around $18,000 ? last I checked ? a big expensive unless it is the last house you plan on living in. Another consideration if you?re really geared toward saving on utility cost is the blower motor used. Remember the efficiency rating (i.e.92%) is that of the fuel, not taking into consideration the efficiency of the blower. There are multi speed and variable speed blowers that automatically adjust depending on what is being called for. Just need to raise the temp 1 degree the blower runs on a lower setting so as not to uses as much energy. There are also gas valves that will run on higher / lower setting depending on what is being called for. Of course these bells and whistles and to the cost ? but it is something to look into. When I had my equipment replaced a few years back I went w/ a 16 seer heat pump with a 80% gas furnace as the e-heat. Variable speed motor, dual gas valve, 6? filter.

This house was built in 2007. The back edge of the garage floor is broken in 4 spots. In the dead center of each broken spot is exposed rebar. I recommended it be repaired so that the rebar is not exposed to air / water that will cause it to rust, expand and cause more damage. My question is what product would you suggest in making the repairs? Click to Enlarge 21.42 KB Click to Enlarge 26.26 KB Click to Enlarge 48.82 KB Click to Enlarge 55.05 KB

Looks Polynesian to me.

what is EH rated?

Well who da think it?

Once a realtor asked me to change something that I thought was a big deal to make it sound like not such a big deal. I refused and have not heard from that realtor in 6 years - if she is still around.

Thank you John and the same to you.

Last house of the year and man what a freaking mess. Not that it matters much in my reporting of this mess, but would you guess the white stuff is a mold or a wood fungus such as "Poria"? Happy new years All Click to Enlarge 47.82 KB Click to Enlarge 54.33 KB Click to Enlarge 70.76 KB Click to Enlarge 52.81 KB Click to Enlarge 58.25 KB

At the upper front left corner of this house, where the roof meets the wall covered with vinyl - the step flashing goes all the way under the vinyl and OSB. Inside the attic the steps make a little channel for the water to run down and out a hole at the bottom. Sections of the OSB is black from getting wet. The house was built in 2006 - out where there are no muni inspections. As you can see in the pictures the shingles must have been put on before the siding was. Would I be off base in calling this builder a dumb ass? Is there any other feasible repair besides removing the siding and shingles and do it correctly? Click to Enlarge 36.13 KB Click to Enlarge 54.26 KB Click to Enlarge 69.67 KB Click to Enlarge 57.25 KB Click to Enlarge 58.31 KB

Yes - I feel like a proud father. I once had a favorite leg - but that is another story. I also once had a male friend who wore panty hose under his jeans in the winter because he swore they kept him warmer then long johns - but that is yet another story.

Found my first rubber hose (radiator?) under a bathroom. Click to Enlarge 59.52 KB

In Orlando, I'm sure it is a slab foundation. If there is a big opening under the slab foundation - go find another house. In FL there is a very high water table (because FL close to sea level) which is why almost all houses are on slab with some older / poorer houses built up off the ground supported by cinder blocks. Send in some pics.

Recently, I asked that question about wire nuts to an electrician. He said it depends on the nut - "read the package" he said. So I read the package and it said either way was ok. Accorning to the sparky I asked some nuts require pre-twisting so don't. I find that if I'm connectig two wires I don't need to twist them, if it is 3 then I pre-twist them. Not that I do a lot of electrical work, but recently I've been rehabing a house and built a new bathroom laundry and bedroom in the basement and I did the electrical myself.

That is a cool Room

This was a typical size kids room in a forclosure I inspected today. I was told that the previous owners paid $5000 for this one room to be painted. Granted it is very well done, air brushed I think, but it makes me wonder if they spent that sort of money on a paint job, where else did they spend/waste money and maybe if they have been more carefull the house would not have been in foreclosure. Click to Enlarge 35.61 KB Click to Enlarge 55.24 KB

I saw the exact same thing on this morning inspection. Yes woodpeckers looking for insectpeckers.

Yes - Best of luck - your one of the good guys.

I do re-test all time after the mitigation system has been running for only 24-28 hours. Your system is not working if the levels only went from 6.7 to 4.0+. All the companies I know gurantee their work and if the retest fails they come back out at no additional cost and keep at it until the levels are below 4.0. I rarely find a retest with levels over 2.0, most are closer to 1.0.