Mark P

What was the soil under the house when you dug the hole for the pipe? Typically the only time I see a retest fail is on older houses when the soil is clay with no gravel under the slab. If this is the case you may have to install additional suction points and use a stronger fan.

I just bought one off Amazon for around $80 - don't remember the exact price.

I had a guy go bizerk over the phone because his electric ceiling heat was not working and his family was freezing. I asked him 3 times to check that all the circuits in the panel were in fact on – he assured me they were. I drove over the next day (after another cold night) and I could tell the guy was ready to tar-n-feather me as soon as I arrived. The only thing I said was let me check the electrical panel first – as we walked back to the utility room he was ranting about how cold his kids and wife are and they were going to have to move into a hotel until “Iâ€

House on slab foundation built in 1965. Along one side only the cement blocks visible at ground level are deteriorated. I am thinking poor quality product. The ground is flat and water probably sits along blocks, so maybe that has something to do with it. Being a slab I really can’t see anything and am not sure what to make of this. Click to Enlarge 65.35 KB Click to Enlarge 73.93 KB Click to Enlarge 76.15 KB

Thanks ya'll

Really high water pressure?

In this main panel all the grounds and neutrals are extended and the two ends connected with these little bolts. Some bolts connect both grounds and neutrals in the same little hole. It seems to me this may violate the requirement that neutrals not be doubled up on the bus bar – but I’m not sure as I have never seen this before. The house was biult in 1994 in a township with no muni inspectors. Click to Enlarge 68.63 KB

I'd bet it is orginal.

Thanks Les, the sop is useful I can come up with something from that to provide to the customer. Thanks also Marc.

Thanks Marc, But what do you provide to your customer in a phase inspection - such as "open wall" or "pre-drywall"?

I'm am looking for a pre-drywall inspection checklist I can "borrow". I had a call yesterday from some out of state buyers that are not happy with how the construction of their new home going. I am hoping somone would be kind enough to share a checklist or document they use on a pre-drwall phase inspection. Thanks in advance.

Thanks Les

Kurt - would you be able to post a copy of one or two of those reports. I can't say I've ever seen one. Or would you mind e-mailing me one to look at? p.s I met Manoj and his family this morning - thanks.

No I did not check the meter. I will return to the house and do so. Lesson Learned! Thanks for the comments. Have a great week inspecting.

In this house, on crawl, built in 2003 the main water line from the street runs under the footing. I can't say I remember seeing this before; I typically see it running through the foundation wall – but I may be having a senior moment. Erosion is occurring under the footing from water running through this opening. Even though it has not rained here for months, there is still a puddle of water. My concern is that if the erosion continues - after a bunch of years the footing will be compromised. My questions: Is running the water line under the footing allowed? Is it even addressed in code? What would you say about this? Do you share my concern about the erosion and eventually compromising the footing? Click to Enlarge 44.55 KB Click to Enlarge 64.94 KB

A Swiming Hole

http://apps1.eere.energy.gov/consumer/y ... opic=11350

I fibed about my police record to get in the military. I fibed about my age when I was young and chasing skirts.

Nice discussion and I appreciate the tips. This was a HUD foreclosure I picked up a few weeks ago. I'm going to either rent it or sell it, or rent it and then sell it. Regardless - I want to do things the correct way, I take pride in my work - even it it will be hidden behind a wall ansd no one will ever know. I'll pass on doing the "mud set wall" but thanks for the suggestion. I'll have to build character another way.

Thanks for the input everyone! Kurt - The house was built in 1959. The covering is metal (AL). I'll have to take a look at the sheating next time I'm over there, but in this picture it looks like a manufactured wood product. Click to Enlarge 75.76 KB

Kurt - are you saying the insulation in the exterior wall (behind the cement board)should not have kraft paper?

I'm remodeling a bathroom. I have it gutted down to the studs and will be putting in a new tub and will tile the walls. The wall at the foot of the tub is an exterior wall and there will be fiberglass insulation with kraft paper toward the inside. The wall along the side and head of tub are interior walls. My question is what if anything should I put behind the cement board that the tiles will be placed on? Thanks Mark

What is that orange pipe - CPVC? I've never seen orange before, any significance.

The buyer was not there so in the report I just explained that the water heater was leaking and need replaced which would also require the replacement of the a/c coil and electric furnace. The seller was at the inspection and he had replaced the equipment on the other side of the duplex a few years ago - so he was aware. He replaced it with seperate units. I guess it was all about saving space, but yes it is really stupid.

Look at the water lines. They are just under the filter, not down in the white cabinet of thwe water heater. Also here is a picture of a portion of the label. Look at the right side it mentions both "Air Heater & Water Heater" Click to Enlarge 49.41 KB