hausdok

Patch it with Frank's RedHot. Grandma says she puts that #@*& on everything.

If your pecs are sagging you could try a bra. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

I find those last sections of vent totally screwed all the time too. The techs replace the furnaces when they reach end of service life but they ignore that vent sticking up above the roof that even anyone that is half blind can see has suffered from inadequate gas buoyancy. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Eww! You're going around showing the client your crack and they love the look of it?!!! Feeling a little sick to my tummy now. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Jim, do I have to come down there and straighten you up? Summary?. O'Handley?. He does good work, but he needs an editor! Only guy I know that wears the characters off his keyboard. Not just the characters. You know those little nubs on the F and the J keys that are supposed to allow a blind person to correctly position their fingers on the keyboard - those are also worn completely away. If I look at the keyboard to type I have to guess where the keys are and hope that I hit them. When I keep my eyes on the screen I almost always hit the correct ones.

I've been writing this issue up for years and referring clients to that document that Mark posted about - well, ever since that document was first published in 2009 and was called something else. The Masonry Veneer Manufacturing Association was formed in 2007 and two years later they published that guidelines book. I think their last update was early in 2014. I believe they formed that association for one thing only - to avoid being pulled into litigation. Before they published that book you could call a manufacturer and ask for their individual instructions and for direct comments. Now when I call a manufacturer I get the runaround and I get referred to that set of guidelines. So, you think there's an issue and you point it out to the client in the report. The client calls the builder and the builder insists it's "to code", so the client decides to call the local code guy to confirm. When the client gets the local code guy on the phone the local code guys points out that all the code says is that the product must be installed in accordance with manufacturer's instructions; so, since he doesn't have any instructions he relies on the builder or contractor to follow manufacturer's instructions and as far as he is concerned the stuff is installed to code. The client then asks why, if the stuff is installed to code, did the home inspector write it up? The code guy shrugs his shoulders and probably says something like, "Well, those private inspectors write up anything they can to justify their reports." The client is not satisfied so he contacts the manufacturer of the fake stone and gets their technical assistance department on the phone and explains his (client's) conundrum. The manufacturer says, "Don't know why there's any confusion about it; we published clear guidelines for how it is to be installed years ago," and the rep gives the client the URL to the ASTM compliance document that Mark posted. The client thinks, "Finally, I'm getting somewhere," he checks out the link and now he can see exactly why the home inspector has written up that issue. The client prints off a copy of that document; and then, document in hand he runs back to the build site and presents it to the site super with a triumphant, "There, I told you my inspector was right and you wouldn't believe me." The site super doesn't accept the booklet and says, "Yeah, I've seen that. Did you bother to read the fine print?" The client looks confused. The site super takes the booklet, opens it up to page 3 - Disclaimers and reads aloud to the client, "This Guide addresses generally accepted methods and details for the installation of Adhered Manufactured Stone Veneer. To the best of our knowledge, it is correct and up to date. However, the document is designed only as a guide; and it is not intended for any specific construction project. The MVMA and NCMA makes no express or implied warranty or guarantee of the techniques, construction methods or materials identified herein. It is understood that there are alternative means or methods that might be required and/or recommended based on project conditions, manufacturer?s recommendations, or product characteristics. This Guide for builders, architects, designers, masons, installers and other construction professionals illustrates typical applications of Adhered Manufactured Stone Veneer. Details in this guide that address the installation and detailing of Adhered Manufactured Stone Veneer and its interface with other building components are not intended as specific recommendations. It is the responsibility of all design and construction professionals to determine the applicability and appropriate application of any detail to any specific project." "So you see," says the site super, "I have full confidence in Joe, the contractor that applied this stuff. He says that he's installing it in accordance with the manufacturer's guidance and that's good enough for me. We're not doing anything to, as your so-called inspector says, "Correct it," without proof that it's installed wrong. As far as we are concerned, it is in compliance with the code." Check mate. The client is stuck until/unless he can get the manufacturer to come out, inspect the install and declare it not done in accordance with the installation instructions. Whey would he do such a thing; he's already referred the client to the only document to which all of the manufacturers have agreed to refer callers; doing anything else might open up a whole can of worms - pull him into any lawsuit as a potential witness, piss off the builder so he buys his product from another manufacturer, get him fired for doing something stupid, etc. Nah, he's not going to come out and the homeowner is on his own. All we can do is write it up; using the MVMA document to point out those areas that don't comply with the ASTM standard, and hope that if/when there is an issue the homeowner remembers and understands that we - inspectors - were the ones who tried to point out to him/her that as far as we were concerned the stuff was installed wrong and was going to be an issue - and we won't get pulled into any litigation. I do something else besides, "I explain the avoidance of responsibility loop that the client will run into if the builder refuses to correct the stuff and he tries to run it down. I use the example above. I then tell the client to ask for all corrections in writing and insist on all responses in writing. I tell the client to keep an eye on the veneer and keep an eye on his neighbors' houses; because if it ever goes bad - either on the client's home or a neighbor's home - the client is going to have the evidence needed to show that at least one resident pointed out the issue and was rebuffed by the builder's rep despite having been given the best possible reference available at the time. I bet attorneys love that kind of thing - or, maybe now. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

What did they encapsulate with? Black polypropylene? Some of those products are covered with a layer of release oil so that they won't stick together. I find it pooling on wrinkles in the barrier sometimes. Maybe that stuff sticks - I don't know, I'm always wearing a mask. Maybe the barrier needs to be washed down with soap and water. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Washington state has had laws on the books for a lot of years about abandoned tanks. When I first got into this gig in 1996 any leaking tank would freak folks out. In most cases, Department of Ecology wanted to get involved and it was expensive. The law here says tanks have to be decommissioned within a year of being taken out of service. For tanks out of the CIty of Seattle, that means cleaning them, cutting away the filler neck and vent pipe and plugging those with concrete and then filling the tank with an inert material. Within the city limits is another story. There were so many abandoned oil tanks in Seattle back then that the ecology nuts were fretting about a major environmental catastrophe if they all failed in a short window of time; so the legislature stepped in to encourage folks with un-decommissioned tanks to do it by making it easier, and therefore less expensive, for folks who lived within the Seattle City limits. For Seattleites, pumping out the oil, rinsing out the tank and then leaving it in the ground empty is allowed. They had to cut off the neck of the tank and the vent pipe and plug the end with concrete but they were no longer required to excavate to the tank and remove it or fill it with inert material. Then DOC adopted a more laid back approach to leaks somewhere around 2000. They left it to tank companies to determine whether there was a serious contamination or a mild contamination. Tank companies hired to do the decommissioning take samples from around the tanks and have the samples analyzed for VOCs before proceeding with abatement. Tanks where there is soil contamination over a certain threshold have to be reported to DOC and then you're talking expensive excavation and restoration. However, test results up to the threshold don't require any action; the logic being that the soil will bio-remediate so excavation and removal is not necessary. I explain it the the client and recommend they get the soil sampled before making a final decision. The way it works here is if you recommend further tests/examinations by an expert the buyer can get a 10 day extension to have testing/inspection done. Once the testing and inspections are done by the tank guys the client can decide to walk or can suck it up and pay for it or try and get the seller to pay for it ....whatever. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Maybe the paper lampshade was made from sea weed. We eat sea weed regularly in my home. It comes in nice little paper-thin sheets that are easily cut to shape. Delicious stuff! Especially when eaten with some short ribs, rice and kimchee. If the lamp were made in asia it wouldn't be outside the realm of possibility for a manufacturer to use some inedible kind of seaweed to make the paper with if seaweed is more abundant and it's cheaper than paper. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Erik G., Your coil is probably clogged and needs to be removed and dipped or your system is air locked. Sswillow, If they cleaned the crud out of the coil when they serviced the system, your's could be air locked. Pretty sure that when a hydro-heat guy fills those systems he puts a vacuum pump on it to suck out every vistage of air in the system. Think of it like when you lose the coolant from the radiator on your car and then refill it. If you've got a bunch of air trapped in the system the engine won't cool and it overheats because there's not enough coolant flowing through the system. With the hydro-heat you don't have to worry about it overheating but the circulator still has to deal with the trying to get water into a system that's full of trapped air. This brings up the need to flush the crud out of water heaters annually - something that is especially important on these systems so you don't end up with coils that are packed with crud. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

If I were that uncomfortable with inspecting the system I'd call around to the local HVAC guys until I found a guy who is very comfortable with those systems and then I'd offer him a cut of what I'm going to make in profit, plus lunch, to go with me to the inspection and walk me and my client through the entire thing. It's what I did the first time I had to look at a swimming pool (Let me see. I guess I've inspected, uh.......six...no five, swimming pools in the past 18+ years here in the "dry" Seattle area where 88 degrees is a heatwave.). The client will appreciate the fact you that you had the cajones to admit that you weren't familiar with the system and were willing to bring in an expert to educate you both. You'll gain a good working knowledge and you can make it up on the next one. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Hell, that's not a bad idea. I can't begin to count the number of times I've almost busted my ass walking through someone's strange home during an inspection and hooked a toe. Maybe I need to start doing that before commencing inspections so that my bifocals will pick up the transition better. On the other hand, vertical is overrated. I feel better in horizontal mode - if I don't have to move, that is. Just do my best impression of a torpid python that's just fed. Probably couldn't get away with persuading folks to pay me to inspect houses from that position though. (Sigh) ONE DOUGHNUT - ONE BITE!!! Mike

Sorry, OP, I'd really rather not "bare" with you. My wife would probably get pretty upset if I went around doing that with total strangers. I might get arrested too. Since I've had a bench warrant out for my arrest in VA for the past 32 years. Going there isn't an option. You'd have to come here, which begs the question - where the hell would I put you? Nope, ain't "baring with anyone unless I get divorced first, that person is a female and she wants to come to Washington. At my age, that's too much of a hassle. Forget the whole thing. Now, that other thing; the radon thingie. It sounds like you've done about all that can be done. If you're intent is to not breath in radon I suggest you buy an oxygen bottle and get a really large lawn/leaf bag. Climb inside, pull in an oxygen hose and then have someone tape the bag closed around the hose and turn on that oxygen bottle. Now punch a pin hole in the bag for air to flow out so that the bag doesn't completely inflate and blow up. Now you're protected. Oh, you want to be able to move around and live a normal life? Well, why didn't you say so? If that's the case, stop obsessing about the damned radon and go about living your life, because after you get done trying to limit your exposure to radon how are you going to prevent yourself from inhaling asbestos fiber every time you drive down the interstate on a warm day or when you use a blow dryer? Are you a smoker? What about the formaldehyde you inhale with every puff along with all of the other bad stuff out there? What about when you visit Mom or Dad in their old home and drink that water that comes through those old galvanized pipes? How will you prevent yourself from ingesting lead or prevent your kids from ingesting lead when they are there? Live in a house built before 1980? How are you going to prevent your kinds from ingesting lead as they play in the back yard, get lead dust all over their hands and are constantly putting their hands in their mouths? Like I said, stop obsessing and go about living your life. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Get used to it. If you've got L.E.D. lights in everything there wasn't any need for wiring that would carry the same ampacity as the wiring needed for L.E.D. circuitry. They saved some money by going with lighter gauge wiring and thus were able to keep the price down a little more - and pad their profits a little more too. Figure out what size wiring it is and then figure out what the imposed in amperage will be on the circuit you want to tap into when you add the trailer electrics. If it doesn't exceed the ampacity for that wiring, I'd just install L.E.D. lights on the trailer and put a Dymo sticker on every trailer lens that says, "Use L.E.D. bulbs only." ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

I've always called them sillcocks. Hee, hee, Wait till he goes under there, turns off that valve and then opens that bleeder expecting it to pee just a little bit. It's going to look like a scene from a Laurel and Hardy movie. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

The heat from the fire did it. I've seen the face of concrete blocks spall in many a fire pit once exposed to heat. Sometimes the divots pop off with a lot of force and send embers up into the air and scare the crap out of everyone. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Thanks Chad!

Hi Guys, Just woke up and my brain is a little foggy this morning. Look at the photo; isn't there a restriction on length of an extension pipe to a trap - 18 inches or something like that This one is about three feet. Click to Enlarge 30.54 KB

According to an article published today on the website for the Basin Radio Network, a Gillette, WY home inspector has been arrested for felony possession of Xanax and Fentanyl. It seems thefts of prescription meds were occurring in homes for sale. The Campbell County, WY sheriff's department developed information that pointed to a particular inspector and a sting was set up where a bottle of prescription "bait" medicine was left in the home under video surveillance. The suspect inspector finished his inspection and left along with the bottle of prescription meds. The Sheriff's office then got a warrant to search the suspect's house and found him to be in possession of other prescription meds that had not been prescribed to him. As Bugs Bunny would say, "What a maroon !"

It would help a great deal if you were to edit your comment and do something to differentiate your words from the inspectors. All drywall eventually cracks at the taped joints and if the drywaller wasn't really skilled it can happen all through a house instead of at a few places. That house is half a century old and probably should have had the joints gone over and refeathered several times by now. That probably didn't happen. If he didn't mark it as an issue he probably needs to find a way to show in his report that he considers it to be a cosmetic issue that really isn't his purview - same with the cracked tiles. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Yeah, hoot. You'd think they could have found a subject matter expert that doesn't make his/her living selling crap to home inspectors. A guy from James Hardie to explain all of the intricate installation details required with Hardiplank for instance. A guy from the MVMA to explain all of the details necessary for a good masonry veneer installation. Someone from Watts to explain radiant heating basics and what to look for in those installs. A guy from Rheem to explain all the ins and outs of their heat pump and tankless water heaters etc.. Sounds like an education committee with their heads up their collective backside. Someone should have gone to the EPA and said, "Hey, what's this B.S. about and why haven't you guys debunked it in the press yet? ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Don't want to crawl around in that attic? Think twice before you blow off an attic - it could come back to bite you? That's what a Pillar-to-Post inspector is learning in Florida. According to an online article posted by WFTV.com, a Pillar-to-Post inspector in Florida, who does both home inspections and pest inspections, declined to inspect an attic because he said that the entrance hatch was too small for entry and Florida law allows him to make that decision, The portion of attic that he inspected and reported on was only what he was able to see from the hatch. Shortly after the client/new owner moved in, subterranean termites that were nesting in the framing of the house began emerging from the structure to do their annual swarm. The new owner had the house inspected by at least one other pest inspector who entered the attic and found substantial termite damage that would have been readily visible to the inspector, had he simply entered the attic. This is one of my biggest peeves with this thing we do. How is it that cable-television folks, HVAC techs, electricians, plumbers, pest inspectors and insulating contractors can all get into attics and move around in them for years before we inspectors arrive on site and then we, the so-called experts of the construction world, refuse to enter those exact same attics? The case is now in litigation. Learn more at this link.

Kenmore, WA/August 23, 3014 ASHI Western Washington has announced its 2014 ASHIWW Fall Educational Seminar for Home Inspectors to be held at the Shoreline Conference Center, Shoreline, WA on Friday, September 12th and Saturday September 13th, 2014. This seminar will feature popular electrical systems lecturer and trainer Douglas Hansen from Code Check, Kirk Hafner from Sound Solar Systems, Curtis Dahl from Sundance Energy Services and Mike Brisbin from New Construction Home Inspections. The details and conference schedule are listed below. To register, Click Here! Shoreline Conference Center 18560 1st Ave NE Shoreline WA 98155 Phone 206-393-4122 Seminar FEES* Friday and Saturday - (Full Seminar?15 Credits) ASHI Western Washington Member $300 Non-Member $345 Friday Only (7 Credits) ASHI Western Washington Member $135 Non-Member $175 Saturday Only (8 Credits) ASHI Western Washington Member $185 Non-Member $225 *Visa/MC Accepted Friday Schedule** 7:30 - 8:00 Registration / Vendor Tables - Breakfast - Pacific Northwest Catering 8:00 - 8:45 - Chapter Meeting 8:45 - 9:00 - Introduce Attendees and Vendors 9:00 - 12:00 Kirk Haffner - South Sound Solar - Design, Installation and problem areas of solar systems 12:00 - 1:00 Lunch - Pacific Northwest Catering - Vendor Tables Open 1:00 - 3:00 Mike Brisbin - New Construction Home Inspections - How are they different then older house? 3:00?5:00 Curtis Dahl - Sundance Energy Services - Installation of heating systems Saturday Schedule** 7:15 - 7:50 Registration / Vendor Tables - Breakfast - Pacific Northwest Catering 7:50 - 8:00 Introduce Vendors 8:00 - 12:00 Doug Hansen - Code Check -Electrical - Materials, Installations and Code updates for Washington 12:00 - 1:00 Lunch - Pacific Northwest Catering - Vendor Tables Open 1:00 - 5:00 Doug Hansen - Code Check - Plumbing - Materials, Installations and Code updates for Washington ASHIWW has applied for 15 ASHI, NAHI, NACHI and WA/OR/AK State CE credits for this seminar. **Speakers & schedule is subject to change Note: The registration deadline is September 5th in order to receive the listed price. After September 5th, a late fee of $25 will be added to the regular fee.

Hi Frank, It's good to hear from you. Like Les, I thought the Watts training was great and I wish there were more training along those lines tailored for and available to this profession. Sorry I can't help with the BPI multi-family question though. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Here's some free advice for the O.P. Stop coming here to get answers that you need to get from an electrician. Go to you library and get a copy of Electrical Inspections of Existing Dwellings by Douglas Hansen, read it from cover to cover and then re-read it and then read it again. Once you've worked your way through that you should be able to have an intelligent conversation with a licensed electrician about what the electrician needs to do to straighten out your electrical system.