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Yes very good advice. Other phone etiquette; try to keep away from saying "ah"&"Um" in awkward pauses, and leave a phone number twice when leaving a message. I hate it when somebody leaves a callback number like; the area code real slow, the prefix even slower, then the last 4 digits super fast. A recent television commercial pinpoints certain "Cell Phone" etiquette. I think they hit the nail on the head with some of them. Especially the long pauser.

Segway - Segue Stupib Spel Cheque Have to admit, that's a little embarrassing... [:-banghea

Gary your right, I should cut back on stuffing my mouth (especially with my own feet). Anxiety - no, just find it hard to go when they sound unsure. Mark's explanation is kind of how I deal with it, but I always feel like saying some kind of cheesy sales slogan or something. "Do you have a minute to hear how I run my business? ..." That's the kind of segue I've been thinking of.

I'm still new in this business, and I have had people call me up from one source or another, and not really know exactly what they want, or what to expect. Usually 9 times out of 10 when the phone rings, I'm usually driving, stuffing something in my mouth, or just plain spacing out, and I can't get the perfect "first sentence" out to really explain my service.. So I ask all of you: If you could sum-up your service in one sentence, what would it be?

"Hole Cover"

I have seen practically the same thing in some developments around my neck of the woods. One time I almost fell in an open pit that was covered up by the moisture barrier in a crawl space. I think it is an oversight from the builder or plumber. Or maybe it's a result of being cheap to lower the bottom line, and the installation of a pump would fall onto the home buyer. Either way it's crappy workmanship, in my book...

Good news story M.T. I think I'll break out a rosebud torch and melt some of my Ugly Owens Cornning, and hope they replace mine with stone or somthing...

I have been asked by 2 clients who live in a new development which there is no gas utility. (All Electric). I have done warranty inspections for them and realized the Developer/Builder is Not a Fly-By-Night Shyster. They both have had Large power bills recently, due to the coldest winter we have had in the past 8 years. The contractor is offering them heat-pumps and installation for $1800, and the developer will flip for $700. I don't know what brand, make or model, that's not my concern. I'm really wondering; would installing a heat pump be efficient? I've read a post from Oct 26, 06, relating H/P's to fuel heat sources, but if the furnace is already electric and the Temp could be below 30 degrees Jan-March, how effective could a H/P be?

Was the furnace/venting installed in a tight spot? This could have been caused by poor vent installation. Such as not measuring correctly, leaving a piece a hair too long, or too short, combined with what Chad said.

I was wondering if there are any inspectors from Australia here? I read an article that they were going to phase out the sale incandescent bulbs by 2009. (link to article): http://www.bdcnetwork.com/index.asp?lay ... 2&nid=2073 I have a couple of questions: How does the general public feel about this? I think it's great for the environment, but as of now the fluorescent bulbs are much more expensive. I try to use them in my house, but I still have some cheap old incandescent in some fixtures. Is there any "talk", about the government helping in lowering the cost of fluorescent bulbs in any way? What kind of service is over there for residential? (110/120V or 220/240V) Just asking for my own personal trivial knowledge.

If it's full of water; most likely it's not workin'... Water is your best bet. I would never dry run a pump of any kind. What would happen if you got the float stuck. If there is a safety switch to the unit (usually in commercial applications) test that by unplugging the pump and fill with water.

Thanks for all the insight. Scott sorry to her about your dog. I too am a dog person. I made a recommendation to drywall that wall, along with a couple more in the mechanical room. As for the mechanical room itself; as of now I'm not to worried about combustion air. There is no drywall on the ceiling, so there is enough air coming in through the exposed joist pockets. Also the other walls are only drywalled on the other side of the studs. However, I did make a recommendation to install drywall on the ceiling and interior side of studs as added fire protection, and (as Scott said) Increased safety." The door for the mechanical room is louvered and opens into a laundry/utility area. I didn't measure the area of this vent, but it seemed pretty standard (if there is such a thing). I would guess at least 18" x 18". It did enter my mind about combustion air for the WH, especially if they would drywall the room completely, and I feel the vent in the door is sufficient for the 40 gallon power vent. Plus, the way the floor sloped to the floor drains, both in the laundry/utility and the mechanical room, I did notice a gap between the floor and the bottom of the door. I'm use to seeing mechanical rooms on newer houses completely rocked and sealed. Maybe the drywall guys started this basement on a Friday afternoon...

Thanks, sometimes my brain gets tongue tied. I wanted to make my recommendation on more basis than "It's Just the Right Thang To Do!" The house is 4 years old and this family is going to be the second owners, so I guess I shouldn't have to worry about Mr Know-It-All Builder faxing me his occupancy pass from some City Inspector. And yes, this was designed as a bedroom from the start, in regards to Egress Requirements.

I did an inspection yesterday in which there was a bedroom in the basement. The family buying the house told me that they were planning on using it as a bedroom. The closet was actually the area under the staircase, which shared a stud framed wall (No Drywall) with the mechanical room. Without the drywall, one might say; there's mechanicals in a bedroom closet. The furnace is a Cat-4, (Drawing combustion air from outside), and the water heater is a High Efficiency (power vent). There is another door to the mechanical room, however without drywall in the closet, could this WH draw combustion air from the bedroom? I want to make a recommendation to have this closet drywalled for a fire protection, but I'm looking for some more ammunition, just in case somebody cries "Code!". For what it's worth; this municipality goes by BOCA.

How about if there were baffles installed between the roof sheathing and rafter insulation? Wouldn't this help with ventilation? Encapsulated fiberglass insulation, does this cause a double moisture barrier situation?

refere-????? Or do you mean "refer"? Like me, I live and dye by my spell-cheque Just being a smart-ass. I'm considered a newbee, so I'm interested as well. Frank

Poor workmanship is right. It's hard to stick frame when your use to installing manufactured trusses all day long... Joe Blow Builder: "Ah what's a bird's mouth???" I see that around my parts as well. Sometimes I think the only thing holding it all together is the 1/2 inch OSB.

Not to turn this thread around; but I know people who were big fans of bamboo before they installed it in their own home. I have heard it scratches real easy. Now I can't recall if they installed natural or carbonized bamboo, but I am still a little skeptical about the product. As for my mom, she's a big fan of new products; and my dad, well he's just an old fashioned Oak type of guy anyway...

I love it when they install laminate/floating floor in bathrooms... Not only the "wetness" of a bathroom, but I actually have seen blown seals from the toilets because of the movement of the floor. I thought Pergo, when it first came out wasn't bad, especially for the installation time/price. Now a days it seems like there is a lot of junk out there. My own mom was looking into a laminate recently. Luckily we talked her out of it, but now she wants bamboo flooring. My dad is still trying to talk her into a real hardwood floor.

It seems the popularity of laminate flooring recently has produced a lot of so-called "Master Installers". I have found that the most defects or problems with laminate flooring comes from the installation, or maintenance. It's highly unlikely in this case, but I have seen damage caused by an un-level sub floor.

I would guess Ukrainian Village...

Bears 24 Colts 17 Only 22 hours left. I got 20 lbs of beef brisket. I am just about to season them and slow cook overnight. If I can keep myself from picking at it all day that should be just about enough for 5(maybe 6) Bears fans.

Say it is a plumbing stack; it looks like the stack has a tee, with a 45 above it, and the CSST is going into the tee. If this is the case you would have an open stack in the attic. Also where would the CSST come out at, a P-Trap???

Is it me, or does anybody else have the theme of "Sanford and Son" jump into their head when they see that?

[:-ouch] OUCH!!! [:-ouch]