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Chris, Do you see this a lot where it's hot to the touch? 2 feet above the tank? I've always been able to grab the supply right above the tank and it would be warm, but never hot to the touch. I agree with re-plumbing the configuration or even adding a heat trap with a baffle mechanism that will minimize convection heat loss, but I still think in Joil's case it's a dip tube problem. Jodil - Did you take a temp reading on the pipes? Frank

Hot to the touch - is very uncommon. Sounds like a dip tube problem. Did you notice if the hot water dropped in temperature at the fixtures, after short use? Frank

I would think it is, and treat it like it was, until tested. Frank

There on to you Mike, or D.B. Cooper Could this be Mike? Image Insert: 21.06 KB

Mark, If anything else I would advise the client (and everybody else) to take as many pictures of the flooding, and damage right now. If FEMA declares it a disaster there might be some assistance for him/her. FEMA has already declared a lot of counties in Missouri, disaster areas. What happened in East Central Illinois, with flooding from Jan & Feb, FEMA didn't declare it until March, and a lot of people had already cleaned up, and fixed up their damage, so when the FEMA inspectors came around it was hard to determine the exact damage. A lot of people feel they didn't get what they should have. Frank Stay dry down there...

I think it should read "Disposers" I heard this yesterday and really couldn't believe it. In my former life(as a plumber) and even now, people have asked me about grease in the drain and sewer lines. They usually got defensive when I explained it to them, saying "I don't throw grease down the drain!" Grease is kind of a general term, usually meaning a build up of oils, and even soaps. When people finish eating off a plate they usually wash or rinse the plate off in a sink. Just about anything we prepare to eat contains some kind of oil. This will gradually build up in the building's waste/sewer line, and in the municipality's system. Just because the kitchen sink doesn't have a food grinder doesn't prevent the irresponsible occupant from dumping a frying pan full of molten lard into the system. Maybe it will cut down their "spills in the sanitary sewer system", but not by much. If the Raleigh (and surrounding cities) want to cut down on their city sewer system, they should start a city wide composting program, or even require new residential construction to have individual catch basins, or in house grease traps, that the owner will be responsible for maintaining. http://news14.com/content/local_news/tr ... fault.aspx Other mayor in the county agree on ban as well. http://www.newsobserver.com/politics/story/1001120.html This could also be part of the solution. http://www.naturemill.com/?gclid=CJSAx6 ... Ggod6xRE_Q Frank

Long sweeps help with drainage, and if you ever have to stick a rod in the drain line it helps with that. Where the tub drain and sink line come together that really should be wye fitting or wye-45 combo. For that goofy fitting above the P-trap you could have used a 1-1/2" tail piece extension with an 1-1/2" x 1-1/4" washer. That coupling looks bad, and is often considered a last resort fitting. I'm kind of curious how you sealed the new PVC stack into the hub of the old cast iron? (Something seems crooked.) Did you use oakum & lead, or another method. I've seen on occasion, when a piece of oakum had slipped past a piece of straight pipe in the hub, causing an obstruction. They make a Soil Hub Adapter Fitting which will sit in the cast iron and has a flanged end which sits on the bottom of the hub. Then you can pack the oakum on top of the flange, and it will not get tucked under and cause an obstruction. I've also seen when DIY, have not packed oakum tight enough, and when the molten lead gets poured it flows into the pipe and cools, causing an obstruction. Also, clean outs are essential every time a main stack changes direction. Frank

Came across this today. It appears that Kansas Realtors are trying to control inspections. If this bill goes through, they should just call it Realtors Evaluations, and not Inspections Read Full Story Here

What kind of separation? What could be the cause, possible lateral movement? This might help: R802.8 Lateral support. Rafters and ceiling joists having a depth-to-thickness ratio exceeding 5 to 1 based on nominal dimensions shall be provided with lateral support at points of bearing to prevent rotation. R802.8.1 Bridging. Rafters and ceiling joists having a depth-to-thickness ratio exceeding 6 to 1 based on nominal dimensions shall be supported laterally by solid blocking, diagonal bridging (wood or metal) or continuous 1-inch by 3-inch wood strip nailed across the rafters or ceiling joists at intervals not exceeding 8 feet. http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/RBC.asp Or Simpson's rafter to double top plate hurricane tie: http://www.strongtie.com/products/highw ... -WDTP.html Frank

I'm wondering what you mean by this. Is it like somebody dropped a cherry bomb in a toilet? Did the sewer back up? As for the busted water piping, somebody probably just turned the main off, without draining the lines, or what Scott had mentioned. Could be somebody had use the restroom, and realized there was no water, so they turned the main on for minute to flush the toilet. Anyway I don't think any of this would have happened, if the house was Properly Winterized, and not tampered with. Frank

Les, Tell me more about this bridge. How much? Can I trade in the other bridge I bought last week? No seriously, I'm sure I've heard of this devise, that Jodi is talking about, but I can't remember exactly when & where. I think it was the same thing that is suppose to rid off fleas as well. I think I'll just wait for Katen's analysis. Frank

Gary, PNot again....

$1500 average around here, with the venting system running up the exterior of the house. (Instead of through the interior, and through the roof.)

Would you stop? Image Insert: 181.83 KB

Bad placement of the clean out - I feel sorry for whoever has to open it up to get whatever obstruction may be sitting in that sanitary tee.

I think something "non-conductive" is a good idea... Frank

So the next day the electrician shows up at the job site with his lunch in a Square D box...

Should that split bolt be insulated?

Could it be something like one of these? http://www.bs-products.com/coppersaddles.html If so it's a real expensive fitting.

Bubba Fitting

My sister and her family live in Glen Ridge NJ. They have a fireplace never been used in the 8 years they have lived there, and are exploring their options for repair or a gas insert, or whatever. Can anybody recommend somebody? Just PM me and I'll pass along the info to them. Thanks in advanced, Frank

I'd think it'll be a clean out for something, possibly a drainage system of some kind. However, since it's right outside the kitchen, and when they installed the newer driveway they might of broken the old kitchen line to the catch basin and repaired or replaced it with PVC, and added the clean out. Is Villa Park on the Combined Sewer, or do they have to separate storm & sanitary sewer? All I remember it's a great place to buy gas.

I'm sorry, I was just trying to show a hack job. Frank

They do make a "General Purpose Glue" that will weld PVC & ABS to themselves, but to one another is not recommended. I believe because ABS & PVC have different expansion & contraction rates. I've found when there are 2 different plastics in a plumbing system it's usually a hack "Handyman" job. Image Insert: 141.58 KB

I see this a lot in my area. Water heater didn't make the rise. (Looks like a set of spy glasses) Image Insert: 109.96 KB[/size=