davidlord

It's here. Image Insert: 16.88 KB I don't have much time to play gotta go to a Deacons meeting at church. Darn it.

The Tir will be at my front door sometime today. I told my wife to be sure and don't miss the UPS guy. I sit in on a webinar (by Fluke) yesterday afternoon discussing the Ti series. For building diagnostics they recommended the TiR or the Tir1. About the only difference between the two are that there are several more on camera features on the TiR1. The interesting thing is that the software will allow you to perform those same features on the TiR you just don't have them on the camera. For and extra $2000.00 I will make any adjustments with the software. As for the battery life I specfically asked the presenter that very question. He told me the units were designed to provide 4 hours of continous run time and that even on large jobs you won't approach 4 hours of continuos use. I know the guy is biased but we will see. I paid $4495 from Inspector Tools and that includes 2 hours of phone training (I'll be an expert after that right), free camera rental if mine is in the shop, and discounted calibration service. I also got them to throw in a car charger. I found the camera cheaper (4045.00) at another vendor but they didn't stock it and there were no extra's.

I turn them on all the time. Alot of forclosures in this area rith now and when you get to them there is a sign on the door that says this house has been winterized (which is kinda funny like its gonna freeze or something). If the water's not on I can't do my job which means I'll be coming back to do something I could have already done. The majority of these houses also have all the circuit breakers turned off. I switch those on also. IMHO I think you can take the "if its shut off I'm not touching it" to the extreme. What's next if the front doors not open I'm not going in? I don't know how this profession evolved into this state of disclaimers, CYA inspection agreements, and reports that don't really say anything. Pretty soon it's gonna be hard to prove some folks were even there.

I'm not relying on the IR cam to pick up termites. I just think it would be interesting to see exactly what it will sense. Termites are cold blooded but some heat is generated as bacteria digest the cellulose they have eaten. I've got the best termite guy around and I won't be replacing him with a camera.

What the heck is wrong with us folks that check forums during the day on Saturday? The boy and I hit the First Tee program at 8:30am and then hit some balls on the range. I've been hanging out with the wife and kids by the pool all day (while the baby back ribs are doing their thing in the smoker) with my laptop on the summer kitchen bar top. I need to learn to just shut this thing off every now and then. By the way its 79 with a clear blue sky today. Pool temps at 82 with a little assistance from the heat pump.

I did sign up for a free webinar from Fluke on the Tir for Monday.

Not buying the ed just yet. I'm going to buy the camera, get familiar with how it operates, and then I will research training options.

The Tir and Ti10 are basically identical. The Ti10 has a higher temp range but slightly less thermal sensitivty than the Tir. These are the two that are in my budget range so it looks like I will be buying the Tir. Some outfit by the name of Berg Engineering has the TiR at 4045.00.

I think I'm going with the Fluke. I really like the Fusion. If the BCam had the fusion feature I would go BCam. I'm sure they will have it but who knows when. I would drive a hybrid if they made one that tows like my Excursion.

I'm going to see how effective it is for locating termites. I was talking to my pest control company partner today and told him that the next infestation he found I would go over and scan for termites. I would think there would need to be a large concentration in one spot to pick them up but it sounds like good marketing material.

I really like the Fluke pic in pic "fusion" feature. I have heard the Fluke resolution is better than the Flir. If the 3-4 hour run time battery life is correct don't you think that would be sufficient for 1 job? I wish I could go down to IR Mart/Depot/and hold both of them in my hand.

Yea, I know just as soon as I buy one the next greatest innovation in IR will hit the market at half the price but you gotta dive in at some point. I had told myself when the price point got below $5,000 I was in. The time has come.

I'm tired of sitting on the fence on the IR cam. Like others have stated whether you like it or not its going to be a tool you will eventually need to have in your arsenal to be considered top shelf. Note I said considered. Perception is powerful. I started another thread just to cut to the chase. I'm buying a camera next week. I will buy either the Flir Bcam or the Fluke Ti series. Somebody tell me which one I should buy and why.

I have two UltraStingers. One stays on the charger in the truck while the other is in use. Very rare that I have to go to the truck and switch lights during the inspection.

Belt ring

I atteneted a FABI conf and Lstiburek was the presenter for the entire day. I think thats the first time I actually stayed in class the whole day. Its like having Dennis Miller teach you about building science.

I do that regularly.

I own a pest control company in addition to my home inspection company. I'm licensed by the state of Florida to conduct WDO inspections but I usually schedule my guy who has been doing it for 17 years unless his schedule is tight. The Dept of Agriculture requires us to use a specific form (1145) for the WDO. Even if I personally conduct the WDO along with the home inspection it is seperate from the home inspection report and issued under the pest control company.

How old is the house? Is it old enough to make two layers a possibility? Take a look in the attic at the nails protruding through the sheathing and that will help determine the number of layers. The key slot is pretty narrow indicating the shingles are not that old. Eight years sounds (and looks) about right.

I just make a blanket statement at the start of the report that simply says that I recommend all items listed for repair in this report should be made by a licensed contractor of the applicable trade.

Given the myriad of software products you just have to find one that suits you best. There is no perfect software that fits everyones style. Personnaly I use an InspectIt product that I began using on day 1 in 1999. I have it tweeked to my style and find it very easy to use. I set my tablet on the kitchen countertop and go inspect the roof. I come back and report what I found and insert pic's. I follow this routine until I'm done. If the client wants to watch me type and mouse click I'm ok with that. 99% of them go do something else without me having to tell them to do so. When the inspectio is complete my report is pretty much done. When I get back to the office or the house I tidy everything up and email the report.

I drive a Nissan Titan just because I like a truck. The MPG sucks but thats they way it is. I think the Toyota FJ would make a cool inspection vehicle. The Titan is an economy car compared to the Ford Excursion V-10 I use to haul the crew and tow my travel trailer.

I have attended 3 or 4 ASHI conventions and find them to be average at best. Occasionally there will be some excellent education but most of the time it's subpar. I will go next year since its only about 1.5 hours away in Orlando. The state association I am a member of (FABI) has 2 day sessions every quarter at 10-11 CEU's each and that is usually my source of CEU's.

In Florida it's WDO as deemed by the Dept of Ag so it includes wood rot, white rot, brown rot, old house borers, powder post beetles, termites, and the list goes on. I'm licensed by the state (I own a seperate pest control company) to conduct WDO inspections but usually leave to the guy that runs the daily ops of the pest control company since hes been doing it for 17 years.

I have Plytanium Thermostat (GP product) on my house and blown insulation and the difference in attic temps compared to a house with conventional plywood or OSB are dramatic.